In reply to wvumtnbkr :
The title reminds me of this:
In reply to wvumtnbkr :
Okay that's a solid question.
So MX-5 I have always pronounced 3 distinct sounds..
EM-X-Five.
So I imagined this is the same.
EM-Anks-Five.
The Manx becomes hidden because you say M-anx but it's still kinda there.
I just love that the important parts of this build are Bull Bars, Beer Fenders, and Pronunciation. Which really are the performance metrics that matter for it if we are honest.
nocones said:In reply to wvumtnbkr :
Okay that's a solid question.
So MX-5 I have always pronounced 3 distinct sounds..
EM-X-Five.
So I imagined this is the same.
EM-Anks-Five.
The Manx becomes hidden because you say M-anx but it's still kinda there.
I just love that the important parts of this build are Bull Bars, Beer Fenders, and Pronunciation. Which really are the performance metrics that matter for it if we are honest.
Anybody can build a straight forward performance vehicle. It takes a special "disease" to purposely tread the broken road that leads to enlightenment.
I believe you may be contagious.
Thank you.
Got the interior cleaned out and removed the carpet.
I have a vague plan for the tubes that will be added to restore structure to the Miata.
How much/how important would all the underbody braces be on a Miata that will weigh about 500lbs less then a Miata and have door reinforcement? They weigh.. a lot.. and leaving them off would be excellent.
By "door reinforcement ", do you mean no doors and thus a solid bar across the opening? Those underbody braces weren't found on Miatas pre-2001, and your shell is already stiffer. For autox, light weight appears to trump chassis rigidity. For street comfort...well, they bolt on/off. So you can build and decide.
If this is expected to generate cornering loads, I'd keep the ones on the front and rear subframe. Yes, they're the heaviest but that's because they do the most.
nocones said:I just love that the important parts of this build are Bull Bars, Beer Fenders, and Pronunciation. Which really are the performance metrics that matter for it if we are honest.
In relation to the concept we discussed separately, which didn't "math"... I'm going to point out that it doesn't fit the "important" parts of this build either.
I reckon the best thing to do, aero-wise (other than tweaking the cooling, in part to fit the concept image) is having a removable rear spoiler to settle the rear end on the auto-X course (and err on the side of "fit the vibe" with that). If/when the body starts to gel more, we can look if there's ways to add some front-aero bits that might add some DF, but still work with the overall concept.
I had a look at the front this morning and think I have a concept for the hood that should look alright even with the radiator. I think I can make the radiator a little lower and back which will help with the amount the fenders are in front of the wheels. I think they will move back 3-4" from the mockup.
It's a crude drawing but with Robbie's Bull bar I think the radiator can be incorporated nicely
depending how the bullbar goes together, and how far forward it goes (and excesses of conduit); here's a concept for some "Dirt Shovels" single/dual element front wings (approximate cross-section at bottom):
What is this thing?
I did some more cutting. I think I'm approaching final cuts. I have a solid "plan" to add tubes back and need to go to the metal store Monday.
Radiator is going to get lowered about 1" but stay in the front. I think it will look fine. Hopefully.
The Miata radiator mounts are removable so I will just extend them slightly. Upper will be a new cross bar.
That thing is the airbag control module, IIRC.
That cross bar on the front (joining the two frame horns) should be fairly burly. Lots of load going through there on cornering and vertical bumps.
I pulled the front shocks to get close to fully compressed to find the final height for the front fenders. That means I finally have cut enough and can now start reconstruction.
It won't be this low but this gives me an idea of how high everything needed to be to keep the wheels out of the fenders in full bump. I think the Manx lines will work nice, the fenders will just be a little narrower then "typical".
I was going to pick up steel today but this weather has pushed that to tomorrow. But I hope to weld something in tonight.
Small update steel has been bought. Prices are about 140% of what I paid for the LMP360 but I did not buy any DOM or 4130 so I'm not sure what their prices are.
More cutting and basically ready to start welding in new metal. But I had to take a day off because the van sold and was being picked up.
You'll need to log in to post.