Recoup questions...

hello I just have 3quick questions just to clarify I'm doing my recoups right...

1. I bought an open box eBay gt45 for 125. it came in a mangled box, so I emailed them and they sent me a second one for $40 (just to cover the shipping). I then sold the 1st one for $150. I added up the 2 and put 165 in the spent budget and used the 150 against my recoup budget. Is that correct?

2. If I have an extra 4.8/5.3 engine laying around, could I self-trade the engine, harness and computer from my 4.6 providing it has a similar fmv? 
 

3. I Sold the mustang catalytic converter's for 750 but only paid 600 for the car. I only can recoup 600 right?

thanks everyone. 

1: Yes

2: No

3: Correct

^what he said

I think you should have done twin gt45s. Could of sent those pistons to the moon, now they won't get quite the same  opportunity to be astronauts.    
 

I still don't understand why people will pay more for an eBay part than it actually costs.   

I should order the minimum Turbos from alibaba so we could get them branded GRM special or similar.

So how do self trade work? I would think the 4.6 engine transmission harness and computer our worth at least or more than a junkyard 4.8/5.3. Using eBay sold items as FMV. I have a bunch of LS stuff as I am kind of a hoarder with that. LOL

Self trade is sort of murky - it's really left up to the builder to decide if it's truly fair or not. 

In general, it is really hard to trade someone for parts of equal value, because you need to find someone who has what you want and wants what you have (duh).

But I think if it is well documented in terms of value for each, there isn't anything in the rules specifically preventing a self-trade like you proposed. (note I don't really know the relative values of your specific situation, I'm just saying if they are similar).

In reply to Robbie (Forum Supporter) :

Thanks. I read it as long as you're not being a d#%* you're fine. Like I was saying I think trading a complete 4.6 with everything+transmission is worth jy 5.3. I'm planning on providing the eBay sold listings for fmv

In reply to jmill144 :

I would make sure you do similar FMV to FMV.  For example I wouldn't do Ebay listings on the 4.6 but use the junkyard price on the 5.3.  I'd do Ebay listings for both. 

In reply to Stampie :

Will do. They will all be pretty high but that doesn't matter, correct? IE (as an exaggeration) $1500 vs $1500.

In reply to jmill144 :

Right because you're looking for the difference between the two.

Stampie said:

In reply to jmill144 :

I would make sure you do similar FMV to FMV.  For example I wouldn't do Ebay listings on the 4.6 but use the junkyard price on the 5.3.  I'd do Ebay listings for both. 

Along those lines, I'm looking at a sedan  with a newer  engine and rear end. If I buy it at $1000 and put those parts in my car and my parts in that car  how do I price  the result?   I bought my car for $500 , sold the interior for $650 have several more items ( new in the box megasquirt, set of 16x7 wheels,  dash, and HVAC )  worth money from my XJS  yet to sell.  Then sell the sedan for somewhere around that $1000 number?

So do I use the original price? Plus the value of the newer car? Minus sale price of everything? Up to a final price of Zero?   

In reply to frenchyd :

Easy, you can only recoup up to purchase price on one thing. So your $500 car is $500 recouped. Everything else is gravy. 

If you want to "self trade" parts from the fully recouped car with parts you already own, then you must establish fmv of both the in budget part and the traded for part. If you're buying a parts car in order to self trade, that's a little grey in my opinion.

The Rules have all the details on how to establish fmv if you're going that route. 

In reply to Robbie (Forum Supporter) :

Thanks Robbie,   
     I want to play by Challenge rules even though my "Challenge" will be local rather than down there.  
      My ultimate purpose of this car is Vintage racing so I'll do some things that won't gain me anything in the autocross or drag racing.  I'll do it anyhow since they will ultimately  benefit me in vintage  racing.  
    Following this I'll use the parts on my MGuar so they won't go to waste and it's a legitimate  self trade.  
     Based on that am I still following the rules or not?   

In reply to QuasiMofo (John Brown) :

Not to poke holes but to understand. Why is answer 1 not "no you can count $40"?

In my mind it's not a group purchase. ... the $150 one wasn't used in the project so it's irrelevant in budget. The replacement $40 one is used in the project and is budgeted for the cash outlayed? Where did I go wrong?

In reply to itsarebuild :

Because he wouldn't have gotten the second turbo for $40 if he hadn't bought the first turbo for $150 so they become a package deal.

Stampie said:

In reply to itsarebuild :

Because he wouldn't have gotten the second turbo for $40 if he hadn't bought the first turbo for $150 so they become a package deal.

Couldn't he also have done the total divide by 2, put that in the budget,and negate the recoup. I mean he ended up with a "parts lot" in the end... it adds up fast on recoup with only a grand total...

In reply to Ranger50 :

I would agree with that also. 

Question about making composite parts.  i know you only include raw material cost so i figured the fabric portion is pretty straightforward but the resin...is it how much you use or what ends up in the part? would i weigh the part and subtract the fabric weight and assume the rest is the resin?

Similar question for 3D peinted parts...support material is excluded correct?

In reply to davbro :

Just follow the general rule of, if it is on the vehicle when competing, it needs to be budgeted "accordingly"...

How you decide what is "accordingly", is up to debate... Just remember the other rule: don't be a dick.

In reply to davbro :

Not only that but resin hardens by evaporation of volatiles.  So we cannot use raw material weight.   It isn't quite as straight forward with cloth either. That has to drape over in order to properly fit into curves and crevices and accordingly  have the edges trimmed.   Those trimmed edges usually add considerable scrap to be disposed of.  
   With material for the mold. Plus  scrap material  a rough,  crude, number would be less than 1/3.    But that can vary dramatically depending  on the location and application. Also the method of construction. I frequently use foam between layers to provide thickness for added stiffness without added weight.