Looking for a DD college car around ohio. i dont want an appliance but if i have no choice...
whatcha got?
Thanks as always
Looking for a DD college car around ohio. i dont want an appliance but if i have no choice...
whatcha got?
Thanks as always
I consider a "plain vanilla" car to be a Camry....not sure what constitutes your idea of an appliance. sounds like you are ruling out pretty much all Japanese or Korean sedans.
You can find a P71 or a First Gen (SA/FB) RX-7 for that. Neither will be cosmetically perfect, but $2K will net you a strong runner.
How about an '86 Mustang?? This Mustang would be a fun DD or an excellent candidate for a V-8 or turbo engine swap. The floors, frame rails, rear quarters, trunk floor, hood and fenders have almost no rust. I will include a pair of rust-free '93 (power) doors too! The car has a good running 2.3 liter four-cylinder/stick with dual mufflers/exhaust. The odometer reads 78,000. The red cloth seats (front and back) are in good shape. It also has fresh (Aug. '08) custom paint, new 205/55-16 Goodyear Eagle tires, battery, '93 taillights, Splitfire copper plugs, plug wires, alternator, starter, tie rod end, brake lines, exhaust manifold gasket, head gasket and custom 16" aluminum wheels. It has a clear Michigan title.
$1700 cash!
Call me in S.W. MI (269) 279-5613 to check it out.
CarKid1989 wrote: What does said mustang need? Can i drive it back to ohio
All it needs is a driver.... It should be fine for a trip back to Ohio....
How rust prone are these Mustangs? As in, if this car was a daily driver, how long before it starts marching across the periodic table, being in Michigan?
Joey
They call 'em "Rustangs" for a reason...
Actually AFAIK they don't. My sister had one, and while it was slow, the power steering failed repeatedly like all Fords of that vintage, and she had intermittent electrical problems, the body itself always seemed solid. Especially compared to other Detroit cars of this vintage. And we were in the Detroit area.
Mustangs in general are quite rust prone - hence, "Rustang" is a good description of most daily drivers here in MI. But this car has amazingly very little rust. The doors have a little on the corners, but I'll include a pair of rust-free (primered) power doors in the deal!
1987 900S manual trans/2.0 n/a - $1500
Needs a replacement axle (which I have...current one is noisy), repair to the stock fiberglass front bumper and tires. If this sounds like something you may be interested in, let me know and I can post pictures and more information.
Located near Louisville, KY.
BUMP...
can spend a bit over 2K$ if its over. PM me.
Whatca got. (i like civic hatchbacks) hell i like almost everything
THANKS
I'm getting ready to sell my '94 Protege. Replaced engine (used), various seals, clutch TOB and pilot bearing, fuel filter, coolant hoses, seat, door panel, radio, speakers, etc.
$1500 to a GRMer. That's what I have in it at this point. The only thing it needs is an ignition switch. Current one is loose, and you have to turn the key backwards a bit to get the accessories to work. Doesn't affect driveability or reliability. PM me for more details.
I've got a $1900 '91 Sentra SE-R, in Columbus. 170,000 miles, and the paint's a bit ugly (peeling clearcoat over faded black) but it runs great, with merely one spot of rust on the driver's rocker panel. I can hook you up with some SR20 experts in NE Ohio as well. Damn fun car, just not ideal for a multi-kid household--great for a Car Kid household
edit--contact me at chtonn AT yahoo DOT com if you like. I can even meet you halfway up 71!
Just read your Saturn post and here is an sl2 for a grand: http://cleveland.craigslist.org/cto/858421166.html
http://cleveland.craigslist.org/cto/886223590.html
No affiliation to this '88 Escort GT that needs a clutch
1988 CRX Si, 5 Speed
Good: Runs fine, good tranny, Has a ZC bottom end, Has $900 Tein full coilovers, Alloys with good tires, CD Player, Interior is good, Floors are solid.
Bad: Quarters are bad, Rockers are bad, Needs an ignition switch, Cracked windshield.
$700. It would be about half price if not for the Teins, but I'm not yet interested in pulling them out. It's a project car and you'll need welding skills. I am willing to replace the worn out ignition switch prior to pick-up if someone buys the car before we get into the project.
Also: If you're really interested in a build, my buddy has a D-series bottom end with forged internals that I'm guessing he may part with relatively cheap.
PoisonousBeef wrote: Also: If you're really interested in a build, my buddy has a D-series bottom end with forged internals that I'm guessing he may part with relatively cheap.
Details please.
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