fidelity101
fidelity101 Dork
10/7/13 9:05 a.m.

So I have been hoarding parts for my next motor build and that has left me with a hoarde of parts that I don't need. Like any good rx7 owner I have way to many spare parts. I have so much to the point that if I source/purchase a few components and a gasket kit I can make a spare engine.

so would anyone be interested in me building an engine for you? Here are the specs of the build but in summary is a 6port streetport S4/S5 hybrid:

S4 NA 9.4:1 rotors

FD corner seal springs

FD side seal springs

rotary aviation o-ring kit

mazda competition oil control ring springs

S4 front/rear iron

S5 center iron

S4 front cover with OMP block off plate (premix FTW)

S5 NA rotor housings with turbo exhaust inserts

Upgraded (modified) oil pressure regulators

S4 water pump assembly.

OEM apex seals

irons/housing done with a pineapple racing large streetport.

I can source intake manifolds and I have a line on NOS, BNIB flywheel, clutch and pressure plate. But I'm not sure if it is t2 or NA clutch yet.

I can also possibly break this engine in for you too...

I'm thinking of a loaded short block with a price of 1500 obo. ETA 3 week to build Thoughts? If this deems to be worthwhile (time wise), I'd like to be able to build a few engines a year.

psteav
psteav GRM+ Memberand Dork
10/7/13 10:38 a.m.

Possibly interested. With good exhaust, this would be in the neighborhood of ~160-170 whp, correct?

fidelity101
fidelity101 Dork
10/7/13 11:07 a.m.
psteav wrote: Possibly interested. With good exhaust, this would be in the neighborhood of ~160-170 whp, correct?

150-175whp would be a good range, I ran a very similar build with a stock 1st gen ignition (timing stock as well), a racing beat street exhaust, and a too tiny carb and put down 132whp/125wtq on a mustang dyno.

I've put my current engine through almost 4 years of heavy abuse and it still works fine and has plenty of power but now its starting to show its age, maybe she will hit 5 years!

delivery/shipping can be negotiated.

The engine is not going to be a power house but should be very reliable for flogging, just add lightness to whatever its going into and it should be fine. I ran a 14.8 in the 1/4 with that 132whp with bad gearing (3rd gear ended too short because of small tire diameter)

if you or someone else is very interested and are looking for specific extras like a pan baffle or such that can be arranged, however I cannot offer a warranty but I can provide technical assistance and install help (if local enough) but I will honor my work.

DaveEstey
DaveEstey UltraDork
10/7/13 11:22 a.m.

Make me a peri-port engine. I'll send you my extra 13B.

fidelity101
fidelity101 Dork
10/7/13 11:24 a.m.

In reply to DaveEstey:

now that I know I can't do myself per-say. I do not have or know anyone with a drill press and I cannot weld but can likely refer people who can.

if you can get the housings PPd, I can do the rest.

but I'd hate to PP s4 NA rotors, s5 NA or rx8 would be better.

nocones
nocones GRM+ Memberand SuperDork
10/7/13 11:26 a.m.

Are you saying $1500 for a rebuild from nothing? like no core I have nothing you send engine?

What are you looking at for shipping both directions?

What are your thoughts on warranty for parts and labor?

fidelity101
fidelity101 Dork
10/7/13 12:32 p.m.

In reply to nocones:

1500 with no core. correct. Basically I invest some of my money and get the misc gaskets/springs/rotors to assemble this engine, then port it and then I ship it.

if you wanted specific apex seals (like rotary aviation classics) you can always order them and have them shipped to me. since I have not aquired those parts yet.

Not sure on how much shipping would be, the engine itself is about 180-200lbs, maybe a little less without a flywheel but it would likely have to freight which mean I need a small pallet and some tow straps added to the cost or see what UPS would do for a quote for a drop it and ship it.

if I can get the right flywheel or rear counterweight I can drop it in my car with the carb setup and fire it up, drive it around break it in a bit. Monitor oil pressure, oil leaks and do compression test provide videos and etc.

I will take photos of all the pieces as they were assembled and during assembly process and make a nice little slide show.

I'm not sure on parts and labor warranty, it would depend on the failure but I also don't want to screw you, I'm willing to work with you if something happens but it really will depend on your application. I will not warranty this under any boost (NOS/turbo/SC) because it is not designed for that. If you choose that route it would be at your own risk.

This engine is also not going to be a 10krpm engine either since I will not have the rotors clearanced if you spin it that high you can run the risk of having the rotors hit the side housings (leaves a pretty clear mark) or spinning a rotor bearing.

worst case scenario, I build this engine and use it until I sell it. Its not my ideal build but with the parts that I got it will still perform nicely.

fidelity101
fidelity101 Dork
10/8/13 7:10 a.m.

well if I was to find a t2 rear iron I could make a high comp turbo block fyi...

fidelity101
fidelity101 Dork
10/9/13 10:12 a.m.

okay well I just sourced some excellent components locally (oil pan, rotors, rear iron), I need to get apex seals (I have BNIB OEM apex seal springs), a gasket kit and do the porting then assembly can begin!

DaveEstey
DaveEstey UltraDork
10/9/13 12:33 p.m.

hell of a deal

SVreX
SVreX MegaDork
10/10/13 4:04 p.m.

Put me on your list. I have an interest, but can't do it right now. I could consider it after the new year.

I could also be talked into something bigger. Ever build a 20B??

You'll need to log in to post.

Our Preferred Partners
BQiBvLtGjqly8O5a1gOtTGDHuMnUP4QbPkxdGoeLHqu0ntnKp4tqnYVBYyaQ7HjW