WTB: big rear swaybar for mk1 vw.

If anyone has one they would like to sell send me an email @ tmoney717@gmail.com

Your GTI is looking shiny!

Check Autotech and potentially ABD. No-one makes the Shine Style Bar any longer and the ones I've seen have been going for far more than a piece of spring steel and two metal blocks should go for at sub $400.

Auto tech had them in close out last year, I'd check there.

Those RMs look great on a silver GTI.

Stitch weld or clamp a piece of steel between the rear trailing arms.

The thicker the steel and/or the more clamps/welds the stiffer the bar is.

If you're imaginative, you could use a torsion bar from a beetle/Porsche 944 and a pair of torsion bar ends to build a more fancy version and you can use different size bars to tailor the rate.

84FSP wrote: No-one makes the Shine Style Bar any longer and the ones I've seen have been going for far more than a piece of spring steel and two metal blocks should go for at sub $400.

The shine bar wasn't spring steel. It was a piece of DOM tubing. The same stuff they made their roll cages from. They just copied the rabbit hutch design from the 80's.

I used to make a version with 1.25" tube with wall thicknesses ranging from 0.90-0.188" depending on how ridiculously stiff you wanted it.

I race a Mk II Scriocco and I run the stock rear sway bar that came on the car. I did remove the front bar and like the way it handles. Of course I have changed the springs to something that would be considered way to stiff for the street. Stiffer in the back then in the front.

I do have a stock rear sway bar that's doing nothing but taking up space. There are plenty of 16V Scriocco's out there being parted out so that rear bar is not hard to find.

That's a great setup for point class style autocross, makes for a pretty neutral driving MKI.

Hmm - interesting thoughts on having my own bar welded up...

Needed more rear bar on my ITB VW GTI. Went with a 48" long x 3 1/2" wide x 1/2" thick cold rolled steel. Bolted on at the same location as a Shine bar (holes were already there). Not only is it stiff, I also added 25# in the best place for the car. Also still have the stock rear bar in place and no front bar. Was $75 shipped

Thanks for the tips guys.I loved the Rms too but I've replaced them with 14x7 revolutions. I currently have a stock bar in the back with no front bar. I was just assuming I was going to need a larger rear bar. I raced it once with this set up last year but It had a old tires with junk suspension.

The bonus of these cars is that there are a lot of proven combos. I'd suggest finding bolt in camber plates and run them sideways for max castor. This improves dynamic camber meaning you only need to run approx -2.5 front and -1.5 rear camber for track duties. It increases weight of steering but otherwise is a huge benefit to traction and manners as you would typically need -4.5 and -2.5 without the castor to get similar benefits.

Otherwise there seems to be two schools of though for fast autox's mki's. - Stiff front, softer rear with huge rear bar - Stiff rear, softer front with no front bar and standard rear bar

Both setups utilize approx 20% spring rate differential to achieve desired results. Alignment settings are similar- ish between the two.

I'm currently running 450# front and 500# rear on custom custom valves Bilsteins. Can't remember the final castor achieved but otherwise ran -2.5 camber front and -1.5 rear camber with 1/8" toe out rear.

I used to run a GM front bar (from an S10 Blazer, I think) on the rear of my A2 GTI. I copied some of the typical mounts for use along the twist beam and used normal end links from the end of the bar to holes drilled in the bottom side of the trailing arm tube.