TheV8Kid
TheV8Kid New Reader
2/27/14 2:07 p.m.

I recently bought a MS 1 and need a Megasquirt relay board and cable to continue my installation. Thanks.

bgkast
bgkast GRM+ Memberand Dork
2/27/14 2:29 p.m.

The cheap option is to DIY with a junkyard fuse/relay box.

Nashco
Nashco UberDork
2/27/14 3:05 p.m.

The relay board is nothing but a fancy aftermarket relay holder and convenient jumper board. You can accomplish the exact same thing for relays a few different ways for basically free with one of these:

  • Pile of relays, female spade terminals, and a few different colors of wiring
  • OEM fuse/relay box, ideally something small from the engine bay of an 80's car so it's not unnecessarily large
  • Switches. Really, your fuel pump can be powered with a switch as long as you're smart enough to turn it on and off, and you don't NEED a fast idle solenoid for anything but improved manners on a street car (not required for a challenger)...that means you only really need one relay and some fuses and switch(es) to accomplish the same thing. All free or near free.

With regards to the convenient jumpers, another way to do it is with these types of terminal blocks:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Dual-Row-10P-Screw-Connector-Electric-Barrier-Terminal-Block-Cable-Wire-Board-DC-/390783109762#ht_2078wt_1124

I bought a huge bag of used terminal trips for about $10 many moons ago and they make testing wiring harnesses before committing to final crimped connections very convenient. You can either hide these behind a dashboard or in a glovebox or something, or you can use them temporarily until you're confident that your harness is working as necessary, then use crimped connections to seal the deal and pretty things up.

The cable is easy. You need a DB37 socket and pins and some wires. DB37 sockets are mega cheap, and if you're handy you might even be able to salvage some from old electronics (but they're so cheap it's not really worth it). For wiring, you want good quality stuff in lots of colors, and OEM harnesses make awesome donors. Find a car that's getting scrapped and pull the harnesses out of it...you'll have lots of great wire to salvage and it'll cost you nothing.

Another option that can save time is if you get an engine harness that is pretty close to the same configuration (ie. I6 engine with similar injection style and electronic ignition). It's generally pretty easy to make another engine harness work than to start from scratch...so something like a Jeep 4.0 harness might be available from a local guy who put in a junkyard engine and has a cut off old harness he would give away.

Bryce

TheV8Kid
TheV8Kid New Reader
2/27/14 3:17 p.m.

Thanks for the tips guys. Maybe I will go this route. This my first time using megasquirt, so I was planning on using the relay board to simplify things, but if it is as simple as you say, then I will consider it. I will have to talk it over with my dad. Do you know any cheap solutions for fuel systems? My dad told me that I would need a boost controlled regulator with a return valve, kind of like this http://www.summitracing.com/parts/aei-13129?seid=srese1&gclid=CKS0jqmd7bwCFY1QOgodjFYA4w

Nashco
Nashco UberDork
2/27/14 3:48 p.m.

The relay board does make things simple...at a cost. Simple time vs. money comparison!

I don't know why you'd want to buy that fancy regulator, but yes it would work. Since you're planning to run big honkin' injectors (60#), any OEM fuel pressure regulator that is manifold pressure referenced and plumbed into your fuel rail like normal will get the job done. Of course, the OEM fuel pressure value should be in line with what you expect for your injector flow rates (they flow X amount at Y psi fuel pressure). There are a lot of ways to skin this cat, many of them much cheaper than that regulator.

Bryce

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