I may be taking trade of a 1966 corvair convertible for all my spridget spairs. I so don't need another project. All I know right now is that the engine is out. Was resealed and a new clutch. Ready to install. New floors. Top doesn't leak but rear window is taped.
Oh and Severna Park or Highland MD.
Rust- Some, nothing to worry about. 3 speed manual. ~75k on engine and trans with lots of life left. Red. Monza vert. Interior is a pair of Volvo s50 buckets and a corvair rear. - from other guy
Interesting start to a challenge car?
Pictures and price, Mark. Pictures and price...
Lol. I have a texed pic I can forward. Not sure on price. Don't really know what these go for but for sure under 2k
Lol. I have a texed pic I can forward. Not sure on price. Don't really know what these go for but for sure under 2k
In reply to markwemple:
Pictures sell. Establishing the selling price is generally the seller's job.
Corvairs are weird with prices. If this car is in decent running shape, that's one thing, but if it's a beat car with the motor out of it, yeah you're probably not going to get much for it.
what youv'e done is made it easy on your self to clean out the shop, 1 car and it's done. I wish. I would love to have a 66 vert. my little brother did in 70-71 it was Trick,down in the 'Grove'and the Gables. It's not worth what you want,and you haven't said that yet.
Need to know more about the car and do a little research on prices. Also, I might try installing the engine if it's no tougher than a bug or a 911.
Not any harder but like every thing a simple trick makes it easier, put a screw jack between the top of the trans and jack against body above near the engine compartment, that points the tranny downward enough to put the engine against it and start bolts then remove screw jack and raise engine into place, easy right!
Corvairs are wicked easy to work on. Easiest way I've found for major powertrain work is to drop the powertrain as an assembly, then separate transaxle from engine. Installation is reverse of removal.
In reply to markwemple:
It can't be too hard - I saw one fall out mid-run at an autox when a single bolt backed out. It was still attached to the trans, but dragging on the pavement.
I may have to also include all my JD stuff as part of the deal.
Pity you're not closer to me, a decent-condition late-model Corvair 'vert for solidly in the Challenge-money range is something I'm quite interested in.
Best tool for getting a Corvair drivetrain in and out is a motorcycle jack. There are some people who have made brackets that bolt on the jack to make it even easier, but it's not necessary.
I've removed a Corvair drivetrain every way possible and AngryCorvair is right, the easiest way is to pull the entire drivetrain and separate/reattach the transaxle and motor on the floor.
petegossett wrote: In reply to markwemple: It can't be too hard - I saw one fall out mid-run at an autox when a single bolt backed out. It was still attached to the trans, but dragging on the pavement.
Well that sounds like the owner didn't double check his stuff, the front bolts on the transaxle are castle nuts with cotter pins. The early models have a single rear nut on the engine mount that is also a castle nut and cotter pin set up. Late models have a dual lock nut with a figure-8 washer setup on the engine, which is quite effective.
That proves you may need at least 2 bolts in the tranny or one in tranny and one in the body mount,I guess 1 just ain't enuff
In reply to GTXVette:
His is a '66, so it's going to be two castle nuts up front and 2 lock nuts with the figure 8 washer in back. 4 nuts total.
In reply to SyntheticBlinkerFluid:
Ah, our expert. I may need your advice. Still in negotiations.
markwemple wrote: In reply to SyntheticBlinkerFluid: Ah, our expert. I may need your advice. Still in negotiations.
Well shoot me an email. My screen name @gmail.com. I don't get PMs because yahoo sucks.
Email sent. Thanks!!
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