Anyone have one they want to sell or rent me? I'm fixing to the timing belt on a 96.
Just buy one... https://www.flyinmiata.com/flyin-miata-cam-gear-ninja-tool.html it isnt that expensive. (EDIT* just realized its backordered... I did fine without it myself. Just carefully recheck the marks before putting the covers back on. Using a wrench, turn the engine a few times to see)
Otherwise, carefully degrease/dry the crank nose and dry it. Obsess over cleanliness there and loctite it.
I've done one without, and one with that I borrowed from someone on here years ago. The tool definitely makes life easier. This one the belt broke on, and it came to me like that, so I'm hoping it's not too horrible. parts should be here by the end of the week and I'll likely start the tear down Sunday. This will be the first one I've done without the benefit of my dads "shop" Going through all my tools to make sure I've got everything I'll need. I already know I'll be missing the big impact when it comes time to pull the crank bolt. 3/4" impact turned up to 130 psi made short work of the last crankbolt that laughed at the 1/2" impact.
The FM tool was nice to have for putting the belt on while keeping the cams aligned, as well as when I forgot to loctite the cam pulley bolts and wanted to do this after I installed the belt. However, I found a rubber strap wrench to be a suitable stand-in when replacing the timing belt without the special tools: it provides a decent hold on the crank pulley, and wrenches worked fine for aligning the cams. If you don't have the FM tools handy it might add 15-30 minutes for the job, but certainly nothing to hold you up.
On all the miata timing belts i've done, I just used two wrenches and a pair of vice grips to hold the cams. Before you take the old timing belt off, bring it up to TDC on #1 and verify all your timing marks. Than place a wrench on the flat spots on each cam. The wrenches will angle towards each other in a x shape. Put your vice grips in the middle of the x and your cams are locked. For a crank holding tool, I just took a small piece of scrap 1/8"x1' steel strap. It bolts to the crank and to I think (but can't remember exactly) one of the p/s mounts. You just have to grind out a small section to clear the front of the crank nose. Then once you get the new belt and tensioner on, crank the engine over by hand four revolutions and recheck your marks. Good luck
Paul
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