Most excellent.
Most excellent.
Chopping a small part of the core support allowed us to mount a small battery so that charge plumbing would be less torturous.
A little bit of all-thread and a chunk of aluminum later, we had a hold-down. It will get a little work to make it more presentable. Also, i scrounged some used terminals from my toolbox. Since i didn't have two normal terminals i decided to make one 'quick disconnect' terminal for the ground side by combining a marine and a side-post terminal.
Here is what the charge plumbing mockup looked like before i took it all down to be welded. Yes, the mockup is held together with a bungee cord and flashing tape.
Words cannot explain how jealous i am of the easy routing options on this car.
Well i'm finding this 'same side' plumbing to be kind of a PITA when using a NOT same-side intercooler. If i was using an intercooler meant for this it would be super easy!
I have an Evo cooler like what you got there on my Aries, which was MUCH easier to route, but that is mostly because there is no AC on that car. AC makes running the passenger side piping inside the engine bay much harder. If this car didn't have working AC i wanted to keep, i probably would have run one of the pipes into the engine bay on the passenger side like what you have there. Part of my reasoning for not stealing the Evo intercooler off the Aries was that it would have been even harder to do a same-side routing on vs this smaller starion cooler.
One of these would have been nice:
I don't want to see this thing get crispy! 
Our hot shoe driving has been training.
An intercooler has been welded and i will be picking it up soon. The anticipation is really building now! 
Vigo wrote: An intercooler has been welded and i will be picking it up soon. The anticipation is really building now!
You must post pretty pics.
this is looking good.
I fought the intercooler most of the way into the car today. It took a little tweaking over a lot of time but it is now loosely attached to its mounts and all pipes are attached. I think i left 2 or 3 clamps to tighten when i ditched the car for Halloween festivities.
Also set the base timing, adjusted timing belt tension, adjusted the battery hold-down, completed and filled the cooling system, filled the trans and ran through the gears (car still on stands), adjusted the fuel pressure, oh...
and found out the rebuilt, never-run motor has a MASSIVE REAR MAIN LEAK.
Oh well. Keep on pushin..
I'll put some pics up tomorrow but until then, ill simply share this vid of the turbo miata owned by the friend who welded our intercooler. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Lk1C49Klqdg
Hahah!!! THAT GUY!!!
Been following his threads on Miataturbo. He's insane. In a good way. Nobody knows how the hell that thing is staying together.
It's been staying together for 6 years! "Common wisdom" just isn't keeping up with reality, i guess. 
BWOOP BWOOP EXCITING NEWS!
The lancer has hit the pavement and moved under its own power. I backed it out of the carport, took these two pics, and drove it back in. It is SUPER low on gas so i didn't drive it yet. 
I would totally daily-drive that thing.
That is looking VERY nice!!
What sort of power/quarter mile times are you expecting out of this thing?
Hah, put me on the spot why don't you!
The compressor on the turbo will be close to maxed out in the low 300s chp. I think that's about as far as the intercooler will go, too. The intercooler may actually become a problem before that. It IS a stock piece from a ~150 hp car!
If i were to make it close to 300hp and everything was working right, it should be able to crack 12s at low 100s, say 102-105mph.
Will i be able to do that? Who knows. I sure don't know. I just know what the parts are good for, not what IM good for!
That is one cool looking car. They weren't even near my radar before this thread, now they're all over it.
This car has all of my want.
Well, we got all the gauges wired up (Wideband, Fuel Pressure, Boost) and drove the car some. Turned it up to cutout and it is still running SUPER rich with base pressure at 28psi on the 550cc injectors. It wants to idle richer than 10:1 too. I already have the pressure turned down by a greater proportion than the injectors are bigger than stock.
This car reminds me why i swap everything to 5spd... Auto sucks the life out of these things!! Im hoping 10 more lbs of boost will change that.
I ordered a 3-bar map on ebay, it should get here thurs or fri. When i get a 3-bar calibration file that is scaled for 550cc injectors i will put base pressure back to stock and try to do most of the fuel tuning with computer revisions. I just have the base pressure turned down right now so it will run on the stock computer.
I think i'm going to try 3" lift springs for the front of a Cherokee and see how stiff they are after i cut them in half and put them in the rear of the Lancer. There's a pair for $30 on local CL. Actually 3 pairs.
I took someone for a short test drive today. It made me feel better about the project. Not like i felt bad about it but i am so ADD that i need to have constant exposure to the upside so i dont start to lose interest. I didn't build any real connection with this car before the build so it has been kind of like giving a loan to someone you don't really know. I need to get it insured and drive it like, once a day at least, and maybe even leave my backwoods country road, and get to know it.. I think that will keep me in the right frame of mind. 
So i got my OTC Genysis scanner on this thing and it basically works as an OTC4000 emulator when reading off the 93 PathfinderII cartridge im using. The interface is a little weird but i figured out i could set up a custom datastream list with 8 items which means i CAN watch knock activity on all 4 cylinders simultaneously.
Also found out i've got no narrowband o2 signal at the ECU which explains why i had to back my fuel pressure down to 10 (TEN!) psi to get it to idle at 11:1 with these injectors when it SHOULD want more like 30psi.
So now i've got to figure that out. I'm wondering if i caused a problem by putting an 89 computer on the 88 harness because of the 3 vs 4-wire o2 change. I'm going to poke around and see if i can find a 'normal' problem while i wait for some responses on that issue at Turbo-Mopar.
Ok, there is no harness problem, the signal wire is on the same pin in 88 and 89. The sensor itself is not putting out a voltage so once i swap in a sensor it should be good to go!
It is the same sensor from before the swap (ran fine and no code for A/F problem like it has now) so i guess the jostling required to break it loose from the old turbo to move it to the new motor broke it internally. Oh well.
I was gonna ask if the sensor even got tested before installation but didn't say anything because I thought I'd get flamed.
The 'testing' was it was fine when we took the car apart. I'm not exactly sure how to test the signal output without it being on a running engine. You can test resistance on the heater circuit but i dont even care about the heater circuit. Is there a way to easily bench-test the signal output?
No flaming from me! I'm hot rodding a FWD dodge after all!
Let us all hope that i don't somehow turn a K-car burnout into an endo before i even get to the tree.
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