Can anyone id this part? I found it in the car...
Started the machining process for the mechanical pump mount.
The front block registers the side block for drilling the bolt holes if needed. It also places two additional precise alignment holes at the top. I did not need to drill the bolt holes they were already drilled and tapped.
The next step is to drill the oil drain return.
That is a separate plate that uses the bolt holes and the precision alignment holes.
That's a lot of material. But it makes a nice drain . Perfectly aligned with the oil pan.
The next hole is the long one from the fuel pump cavity to the camshaft.
The alignment block is massive.
The next step is a long process. I think I'll pick this up in the am!
MiniDave said:What are the holes being drilled in the fixtures for?
Gen1 sbc engines with factory roller camshafts were all fuel injected. The fuel pump boss is there but not drilled for use from the factory. Drilling and finishing the mount allows for use of a mechanical fuel pump when running a carburetor.
Emptying the tank to inspect the pick up
Good flow, no debris, just a little golden and stinky. I'll dump it in the suburban in batches . The burban holds 30 so 5 old 25 new should make it go away.
In reply to a_florida_man :
That looks very similar to a carburetor linkage stand that I got from Summit many years ago when I did a Jeep Cherokee GM 2.8 to 3.4L V6 swap.
I think it is still in my garage in unused condition. I'll take a look.
HundredDollarCar said:
Not mine, but part of a throttle return kit.
Makes sense.... mystery solved!
Thank you so much...
I have always believed in learning by doing.
I just bored a 1/2" hole, 5" long through the cast iron engine block for the fuel pump push rod.
I learned a lot.
Well... its done!
The next step was to bore a 3/4" x 1.75" hole.
\
One of the coolest things about the kit was the quick change bushings for each step.
The center hole was actually 31/64". The finish reamer is 1/2" This is the last step.
That was a pretty good ammount of work!
But I'm very happy with the results.
Perfectly smooth fit with the push rod. It will pull a vacuum dry, and will settle perfectly evenly.
Just have bit of a mess.. lol. Its ok I have a bolt hole to fix and a finish hone to apply. Tomorrow she will get a LONG bath.
Everything bolts up and lines up just right.
Even the bolt hole that can be used to hold the push rod in place will work!
Racingsnake said:Nice work on the fuel pump 👍 Where did you get the kit from and how much does it cost?
Thanks...
BHJ Products.
http://bhjproducts.com/
A lot.
$1130 IIRC.
So I was not kidding about doing these for folks... I got tools to pay for lol.
In reply to Run_Away :
Not really.
This car still had its original metal line to the tank, that connects directly to the tank with out rubber hose.
Mechanical pumps are quieter and more dependable.
Id have to add a proper fused, relay controlled circuit.
Mechanical pumps deliver the right psi... etc etc..
Aside from the block drilling, it is the easier, elegant solution, in my opinion, in this case.
For the record I don't have anything against electric pumps, lol.
The 58 healey has one, SU dual diaphram OEM. Super reliable.
In reply to a_florida_man :
Thanks, I figured it wouldn't be cheap. Can't really justify that for one motor but getting a bunch of friends together it wouldn't be too bad. About how long did it take to do the whole job?
In reply to Racingsnake :
It took quite a while.
Mainly it was me learning how hss bits and SOME cast iron are compatible, and that the only bits anyone should own are cobalt.
lol
I also learned how to order cobalt 31/64ths aircraft bits!
This block required a full bore from the boss to the cam. Some blocks are 80% machined.
Mine was the scenario that required the most drilling, and I think I could do it in 2 hours now.
I also have another block I want to do.... so I'll be using it again... and again..
In reply to a_florida_man :
Please tell me more about this pump setup. I have 22 gallons of old fuel that I'd like to remove from a Porsche.
In reply to Woody (Forum Supportum) :
I call that setup, an assisted siphon.
Most electric pumps like to push fuel better than pulling it, so in this case once the pump draws the fuel up and over the fender, it starts a siphon. The siphon makes sure that there is less negative pressure at the pump inlet.
Im drawing fuel from the line at the frame to assure that the line is clean as well as the tank.
There is a fuel filter inline to protect the pump and to observe the fuel quality.
The metal box on the fender is just a 12v power supply.
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