Pump is out - and I have carnage photos.
I came back to this with some longer bolts.
To my surprise, tightening the bolts was enough to pop the pump out without using the slide hammer. The puller made a convenient carrying handle.
Six bolts hold the pump together.
Take these off and the rest of it comes apart.
And here's close ups of the damage.
Looks like I broke both tabs out of the pump gear, no other damage.
Definitely good that you didn't send it!
In the future, you think you could have gotten in there with a flashlight to see if they were broken if you knew what you were looking for?
Mr_Asa said:Definitely good that you didn't send it!
In the future, you think you could have gotten in there with a flashlight to see if they were broken if you knew what you were looking for?
Hard to say, it's a pretty tight gap. I would probably need to get one back together with a new gear to know if I can spot the tabs when it's not damaged.
Drawing up a list of what to order. I'll need to replace a few of the gaskets / seals here along with the pump gears, and I'm trying to figure out if I want to add anything else (maybe a Trans-Go TF2 shift kit) while I'm working on the transmission.
MadScientistMatt said:Drawing up a list of what to order. I'll need to replace a few of the gaskets / seals here along with the pump gears, and I'm trying to figure out if I want to add anything else (maybe a Trans-Go TF2 shift kit) while I'm working on the transmission.
The TF2 kit is the easy button for 727s in full size Jeeps and is in my shopping cart at Rock Auto. It would be fun to see how it goes for you if you do go ahead with one.
Got the TF2 on order, along with new pump gears from A&A transmission. Might try to cut a new band strut out of some thicker-than-stock material too.
Good catch! Continue please!
On the band strut.. i think it's the metallurgy as well as the thickness..
I would have to speak with Rick at A&A to be sure but that's my guess... I would be careful about just cutting any metal outta the scrap pile to size.
Greg
I like your puller design.. I might hafta make one of those for my next trans teardown.
Greg
slantsix said:On the band strut.. i think it's the metallurgy as well as the thickness..
I would have to speak with Rick at A&A to be sure but that's my guess... I would be careful about just cutting any metal outta the scrap pile to size.
Greg
How do the band struts typically fail? If they buckle in compression, thickness is going to be more important than strength.
MadScientistMatt said:slantsix said:On the band strut.. i think it's the metallurgy as well as the thickness..
I would have to speak with Rick at A&A to be sure but that's my guess... I would be careful about just cutting any metal outta the scrap pile to size.
Greg
How do the band struts typically fail? If they buckle in compression, thickness is going to be more important than strength.
You may be correct there, but they are thin at the ends.
Rick at A&A Has the answers.. I do not claim to be a transmission expert by any means.
Greg
A&A seemed pretty busy when I called them yesterday. I didn't think it was a good time to ask more questions as they seemed to have their hands full getting orders out. Looks like they're a pretty small operation with a pretty big stash of parts.
A&A called; they were out of the aftermarket pump gears, but had some refurbished OE ones. I decided I might as well add the upgraded band strut after talking to them as well.
In the meatime, I've got a Trans-Go kit to install...
The A&A transmission gears and band strut arrived. Meanwhile, I'm taking out the valve body. I'm shooting video with this one as well but will have the video posted when it is edited into a complete "how to put a Trans-Go shift kit in a 904" video instead of posting it piecemeal.
Good Luck with it.
A&A is good people - patronize them as much as possible. super nice, and knowledgeable, yet possibly understaffed? I usually corner Rick at shows and pick his brain then when I can.
Greg
Now that the valve body is out, it's time to take it apart. Unfortunately, it's held together with slotted screws which have been sitting in aluminum for half a century. After trying several tools to get them out (and not wanting to use an impact screwdriver), I finally came up with this:
Stuck a second screwdriver through the "hanging hole" on a large slotted screwdriver, and cranked it with the extra screwdriver. Got all the screws out that way without damaging anything.
Now I have the cast aluminum labyrinth apart, we'll see what minotaurs lurk in it - wait, that is way too much purple prose there. Probably goes with the purplish-pink transmission fluid.
Perhaps I should have ordered a complete set of the little steel balls that are in the valve body. I just launched the detent ball for the rooster comb clear across the room.
Yep, no doubt that ball jumped over into an alternate universe. Hopefully a replacement will be easier to find than the one that went missing.
And today is a day for adding several passages to the valve body that did not previously exist.
In reply to MadScientistMatt :
Voodoo witchcraft!
Just need to source a replacement for the missing 3/8" ball (in the lower left corner, where you see the spring pokin up) and it's ready to go back together.
In reply to MadScientistMatt :
Check the little Hillman hardware drawers at any good hardware store. They have all kinds of weird little things.
If all else fails Mc Master-Carr has them in bulk. https://www.mcmaster.com/bearings/stainless-steel/shape~ball/
MadScientistMatt said:Just need to source a replacement for the missing 3/8" ball (in the lower left corner, where you see the spring pokin up) and it's ready to go back together.
https://www.ritbearing.com/about-us/
In town, if you're still in Covington
DarkMonohue said:In reply to MadScientistMatt :
Check the little Hillman hardware drawers at any good hardware store. They have all kinds of weird little things.
Sure enough, the local TruValue had them:
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