MadScientistMatt said:I also found out why the windshield wipers are not working - there is a circuit breaker built into the wiper switch. Unfortunately, replacement switches seem to be selling for a couple hundred dollars. I'm going to see if I can hotwire the built-in breaker and install an in-line breaker somewhere serviceable.
AngryCorvair said:
hotwire the built-in breaker and install an in-line breaker somewhere serviceable.
That may very well end up being the fix - we'll see about that soon.
The cork valve gasket had gotten twisted when installed and RTVed into place. I found a place in Tennessee making new silicone gaskets, and placed an order. We'll see how this one turns out.
Can i get a link or something on that? I have two slant 6 cars waiting for me to stop sucking.
Click the picture, or click here: https://realgaskets.com/product/valve-cover-gasket-38/
In reply to MadScientistMatt :
I've got a '66 Dart gauge cluster complete with headlight and wiper switches - you can have it for the price of shipping if you want it.
Racingsnake said:In reply to MadScientistMatt :
I've got a '66 Dart gauge cluster complete with headlight and wiper switches - you can have it for the price of shipping if you want it.
Thank you! Message sent.
In the meantime, let's have a look inside the wiper switch!
First step - there's a solder joint connecting the two halves together that needs to be removed:
The housing is crimped in six spots to hold the two halves together. These simply pry out with a screwdriver.
And it's apart.
The circuit breaker is a very simple design - a single piece bimetallic element (I presume, as I can't see what the other side looks like without drilling out the rivets). Unfortunately, it definitely isn't making good contact with the other side. Here's a close look at the culprit.
The throttle cable housing is a bit frayed. I suspect that's because it is pulled at such a sharp angle where it enters the ferrule. Time to fix that.
This brake line could replace the ferrule if I can get a good 180 degree bend in it. Couldn't find the tubing bender, but this fan spacer ought to do the job.
It did...
There, that should be better.
New rocker arm is adjusted. Unfortunately one of the fuel line fittings is leaking. On closer inspection, it looks like the ferrule in a compression fitting has almost slipped off the end of the line, about half the inside of the ferrule wasn't biting into any of the line. May have been a problem with the initial assembly of the fitting.
I found the best way to get the gasket to stay put while installing the valve cover was to cut some lengths of heavy gauge wire and poke them into the bolt holes. The silicone gasket can't be pre-glued to the valve cover and lacks the tabs to hold it to the cover like a cork gasket (although it might just squirm out).
Still need to remake the damaged fuel line.
MadScientistMatt said:I found the best way to get the gasket to stay put while installing the valve cover was to cut the heads off some bolts that are 1” longer than the valve cover bolts, blue loctite them into the head, then put the gasket in place over these studs, then drop the VC in place and secure with nuts.
Only works when gasket has bolt holes
I considered studs as well. Then saw I had some heavy gauge scrap wire lying around and figured it was worth a try.
In reply to MadScientistMatt :
Necessity is a mother.
Tried to get it back on the dyno - and it sounds like the motor's hurt. Might be a broken flexplate bolt if I'm lucky, rod knock if I'm not.
I hope that you are lucky.
Love an inline six build, more of a Ford guy myself, though.
Good luck with your noise, I just finished removing the rod knock from the 4.9L in my truck, not a fun thing when you have to do it Vs when you had planned to do jt.
Finished pulling the engine today.
Next week, get the engine on a stand, start taking it apart, and see what broke...
As a hard core Mopar guy, I can't say enough how much I freaking love this build! Go over and check out Uncle Tony on YouTube. He was just building a slant for drag racing. Guy is a hoot to watch.
I don't like the looks of this...
In better news, I found that Uncle Tony now has a video on porting a slant six head. I watched the whole thing.
And I found this article where Hot Rod dynoed a nearly stock '66 Dart with the same engine and transmission, and they got 63 horsepower to the rear wheels. Even accounting for different dynos, that puts the 110-120 hp I've seen on some of the full throttle pulls in a completely new light.
That doesn't look good, but slat 6 are a dime a dozen.
I like following the Uncle Tony /6 build. Maybe some of his thinking can be useful if you do have to find a new block (and it would appear that you do, unfortunately).
When I pulled off the oil pan, I found these bits of metal in the pick-up tube.
The #6 connecting rod was definitely loose. Pulling the cap off and it was pretty clear why...
I think a machine shop may be able to turn the crank undersized, although I haven't measured it:
I suspect the cause was oil starvation at high RPM, given how clogged the pick-up tube looks.
And the cam lobes don't look too healthy either.
That looks quite rough. I'm still pro throwing another leaning tower of power in.
Yeah, this motor looks like a parts donor to something not so badly damaged.
FWIW both the cams i pulled out the two slant 6s i have apart look exactly like that.
The engine that came out of the running car had a faint rod knock. When i took it apart I found out the crank was TRASHED!! So there may be a 'thing' about Slant Six's being particularly muted/quiet when it comes to rod knock.
I have a line on a replacement block and crank. In the meantime, here's a picture of some of the other rod bearings. Somewhat pitted - I wonder if the time the head gasket blew and I got water in the oil was responsible? I drained it pretty quickly, but it was a while before I could flush it with clean oil.
And here's the main bearing caps.
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