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Looks like is in
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Looks like is in
Tonight finally I have some time to sit down and give you a quick review .
Oil pan modification was great idea . M119 fits really nicely over a stock subframe and steering parts . Engine being a twin can design is much wider then single can set up . There is my little problem right there . Left cylinder head is 1/4 inch away from steering box adjustment nut. When engine comes out next time I will try to solve that problem . Engine was mounted 0.75 " off set towards the passenger side for that reason. I cleaned engine bay well, replaced subframe bushings . They were totally broken in half . Bulky getrag 6 speed out if bmw 540 didn't clear the tunnel .
I'm liking the small and some large differences between our similar projects. My bell housing is so big it is hitting the steering stuff.
Looking great!
Sorry to threadjack but...one thing I've never understood about engine swaps using trans adapter plates...How do you get good spline engagement between the input shaft and the clutch disc? How does the pilot bearing /bushing have an effect with the shaft 1/2" - 1" out of the hole? I can see how it works with an auto trans but I don't get it with a manual. Really enjoying this build because who else would do this but a GRM reader?
You build a flywheel spacer the same thickness as the adapter plate to move the clutch and pilot bearing to the correct location.
I just finished building my adapter plate for the same engine/different trans. In my case there is still quite a bit of input shaft fitting into the pilot bearing.
The crank actually sticks out from the block quite a bit. The stock flex plate also has 2 spacers already, one on each side. I found that leaving the spacer between the flex plate and the crank keeps it spaced nicely. My button flywheel spaces everything out nicely on the other side of the flex plate.
The problems are unique to each combo of engine and trans, as well as type of flywheel and clutch. So there is not one answer to get it all working right. I'd imagine in some of the more extreme cases, you could even make a spacer to make the pilot bearing stick out a bit from the crank.
In reply to Trans_Maro:
very well said.
Tomorrow Is a cross member day and engine comes out for that steering box modification.
If you know anyone looking for one of those Getrag 6 speeds, I have some located at VIR
$600
Thanks
Al Taylor 324tdi@gmail.com
I've been collecting parts for RedPig project for years. Hoping to build it some day. I would like to show pics of my parts but I can't figure out how to post them here.
In January, A 288 GTO sold for $2.75 mil. That will continue to go up. Oh, and the Red Pig is my hero!
Finally have some time to roll the Pig back in to the shop . I needed to get rid of steering box. There was no room for exhaust on driver side. Installed rack out of 95 3 series bmw. Tie rod ends are exactly the same. Inner rods required shortening. Still waiting for one more universal joint . 52 spline joints on all the ZF racks are the same .
Been staring at your engine mounts for awhile now. Possibly some small triangular gussets between the mount tubes and the engine block mount bolt flange?
I had to go other route with steering rack , After doing some research with BMW parts I was 99% sure that they use rear steer type steering rack. I had a 15 min laugh after lowering car on the ground and testing steering . Steering wheel turns to the right but wheels to the left. That is not going to work . I was thinking about making a transmission on a steering shaft with 2 gears that will counter rotate shaft . No to much work . It was a great fit with BMW parts , there have to be something out there with short rack that has a rear steer option . Visit at the local junk yard took me towards Ford taurus rack. Much heavier made piece . And only 1 inch longer then ZF.
New parts are all in. Wheels are turning correct way now. Needed to modified mounts . Pics soon . And There is plenty space for header .
I would look into front suspension geometry. I did when I was building my little hot rod and iirc, the width of the rack inner tie rods should be same as control arm pivots or you will have bump steer.
Steering Rack is pretty much done. It fells surprisingly light , didn't check the turn ratio yet but is feels very close to factory set up. I left a little room on the rack geometry so I can lower the front end about another inch. Also I add 3 extra gussets for mount stiffness. I don't see any movement when I turn. Quality of ford rack seems like well made piece .
Steering shaft is a mercedes to BMW to ford conversion. I thing I will add support bearing . Just to eliminate little shaft flex . All the universal joint are all the same . US or Euro parts fit in to each other
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