Bill, if you can figure out the thread (5/16" for the fenders?) Then good ole Rockauto - https://www.rockauto.com/en/tools/hardware,bolt,hex+bolt,155, also look at UK suppliers for Landrovers for Imperial fittings, Rimmer Bros for example (there are cheaper options though) https://rimmerbros.com/ItemList--General-Fasteners--m-4606
wawazat said:Bill-look at AMD, AutoMetalDirect, for fasteners. I found this for an earlier B body kit. I've used their stuff and it's good.
Mopar B body fasteners
I'm 0-2 with these guys now unfortunately. I originally tried to order a windscreen and it said "US only for truck shipments".
No problem! I grabbed a small handful of screws and whatnot, and again "US only..."
Sucks because they have a lot of good stuff.
In reply to Hungary Bill (Forum Supporter) :
Let me know if you'd like to ship it to me and then I can ship to you.
email is my username at yahoo
APEowner said:Cool car. I'm looking forward to seeing what you do with it. I messed around with Mopars a lot in the '80s but mostly '68 - '70 B bodies.
I think you'll find that the K fmember is the same for small and big block cars. It's the Slant Six that needs something different.
When you're doing floor repairs keep in mind that the four speed cars need hump on the driveshaft tunnel to accomodate the shifter mechanism. If you use something other than the A883 then you may not need the hump.
I was doing some research into the K-members, and it looks like for 71-72 all the 8's were the same. But of course, I'm special so my year differs between small and big block as well 
https://www.engine-swaps.com/Pages/ProductsType/K-Frames.html
Good times, but no worries. Just a bridge to cross when we get there.
Good to know about the transmission hump! It'll be another thing we'll have to keep in mind. Kind of weird moving forward without knowing exactly what's going to end up in and underneath of this thing. Right now I'm leaning toward that TKX but of course budget dictates and who knows what sort of deals we're going to find along the way. 
paul_s0 said:Bill, if you can figure out the thread (5/16" for the fenders?) Then good ole Rockauto - https://www.rockauto.com/en/tools/hardware,bolt,hex+bolt,155, also look at UK suppliers for Landrovers for Imperial fittings, Rimmer Bros for example (there are cheaper options though) https://rimmerbros.com/ItemList--General-Fasteners--m-4606
Yup, 5/16-20" and Rock Auto saves the day again!
These guys bailed me out something fierce with my Toyota 4-Runner project, and here they are again still bailing me out. I ordered a pretty decent set of hardware: Speed nuts (which I always called nut clips), an assortment of bolts, and international shipping all came in under $100. Plus I bought lots more than what I needed, OR what I was going to get from E-bay for nearly 3x the price.
I might have to submit photos of the car for use on one of their magnets if they keep that up 
jfryjfry said:In reply to Hungary Bill (Forum Supporter) :
Let me know if you'd like to ship it to me and then I can ship to you.
email is my username at yahoo
Awesome and will definitely do! We've got a few options as a guy at work has a pretty good history with a freight forwarder, I know some people that ship to Budapest from the states, but getting it to one of them may take a middle man. I'll keep ya posted, thanks!
In reply to Hungary Bill (Forum Supporter) :
There's a company that makes bolt-in tubular K-Members that use better front suspension and give so much more room for oil pans, headers, etc. Control Freak
Might not necessarily be what you buy, but a tubular K-member in general could be a much better option.
I owe you guys an update as to what's been going on. The house is a mad thrash at the moment as we're not going to get any work done in January or February. But I'm me, so I still find ways to do "car stuff" even when I'm supposed to be doing "house stuff". In this case, "car stuff" is simply ordering "stuff". I've got the aforementioned RockAuto order placed, and I've started collecting steel from which I hope to build a frame to hold body panels while I work on them:
I had dreams of cutting real neat 45-degree angles when I boxed everything in. Yeah... that did not work at all. This saw is something I picked up at a yard sale in Tacoma for like $40 and the table wouldn't twist so I tried setting it up like you see above. Any attempts to cut steel like this just made the blade flex and no cutting got done.
Ah well. Squared off and open tubes it is.
The flat stock I had was too wide for the compound miter saw, so I clamped it to my rickety bench and hacked at it with the danger wheel.
I've been watching a lot of sheet metal working videos on youtube (man, thank god for youtube instructionals!) and noticed the guy I was watching would score his line before making the final cut with his danger wheel.
I gave it a go and it works lots better. That being said, it isn't totally "Bill proof" and I was a little off on my first cut:
Slowing down helped me later. The rest of the cuts were much better.
Anyhoo, 5 plates were made. I've got four to mount casters to, and one to practice welding T-joints (a first for me!). Up and to now, I've primarily only practiced with lap joints, and any attempt at a butt joint has ended in utter failure. I did break the ice this year and weld 3mm plates onto the frame of my Toyota and those didn't suck (first time for anything!) so I figure I better keep the momentum going before I forget what I did that was good.
Here's side 1:
Side 2
and the bottom side:
The material is all 3mm thick. The square tube is 50x50, and the flat stock is Icantrememberwhat (but it's a bit wider, obviously). The TIG is an Eastwood DC250, the first pass was at 90-amps (which felt a bit cold), and the second pass was closer to 100-amps.
And that's where we ended that day. Not a whole lot of time spent in the Garage, honestly. Just a quick escape while I happened to be caught up on things.
Good times.
The control freak stuff isn't that great. Better than nothing, but not as good as optimised stock stuff.
My money? Alter-k-tion. Or, a qa1 tubular k, ffi uppers, qa1 strut rods, stock lowers, big t bars.....
I should make the disclaimer that im an a-body guy, with shallow knowledge of the later b body stuff.
Dusterbd13-michael said:The control freak stuff isn't that great. Better than nothing, but not as good as optimised stock stuff.
My money? Alter-k-tion. Or, a qa1 tubular k, ffi uppers, qa1 strut rods, stock lowers, big t bars.....
I should make the disclaimer that im an a-body guy, with shallow knowledge of the later b body stuff.
Yeah, I dont know how I'm going to go with the suspension yet (or the brakes, or the...). I've got the rule book for a cup race called the "HistoCup" that hits a fair number of tracks around the area but I'm finding it to be very.... "thin"... (plus it's in German, so that doesn't help). What I can understand is they're willing to let you run just about anything under the sun if it fits in one of their categories (American V8, oldtimer, youngtimer, e30 cup, etc), but all it says concerning the mods is that the parts "should be homologated" which I'm having a hard time understanding.
Mostly because the definition of that word is new to me, but also because what I thought it meant doesn't AT ALL apply to the LHD GT40 Replica I saw running at the PannoniaRing last summer. I might have to pay a visit to some Austrian friends in Vienna who have some experience and see what they say.
It's good though, because it'll force me to keep my money and attention on the task at hand (body work) and not get carried away all at once with modding stuff that wont be accepted by the powers that be should I decide to cup race this beast. Because, yeah. I saw QA1's Tube k-member and the associated control arms and everything. Holy smokes! (that went on the dream sheet).
Good times.
In the spirit of body work, I have been picking up some tools to prepare myself for what's coming down the line. I ordered an auto body hammer, but was told it would take 3-weeks to get here. No big deal.
I've also been picking up a fair number of clamps (6ea sitting in that box), wire brushes, mallets, etc. Nothing too extravagant, but when you live in po-dunk nowhere you kinda gotta get stuff when you see stuff (otherwise you wait three-weeks to order stuff).
Good times.
Javelin (Forum Supporter) said:In reply to Hungary Bill (Forum Supporter) :
There's a company that makes bolt-in tubular K-Members that use better front suspension and give so much more room for oil pans, headers, etc. Control Freak
Might not necessarily be what you buy, but a tubular K-member in general could be a much better option.
I swear, between you and Duster, I'm going to end up with a $5000 k-member in a car with no floorboards
I actually hadn't seen that one, but dang are those expensive! I think the first step will to be to see if I can somehow save this K-member. If not, then why not upgrade since I have to replace anyway? Right?
Good times.
Bad news recently for Oly Beer and the Dodge Charger, it seems:
Oly Discontinued:
Dodge is killing the Charger:
https://www.motorbiscuit.com/dodge-just-killed-the-charger/
But we can't end a post on that sad note, so here's that classic Hemi commercial we all remember
Hungary Bill (Forum Supporter) said:APEowner said:Cool car. I'm looking forward to seeing what you do with it. I messed around with Mopars a lot in the '80s but mostly '68 - '70 B bodies.
I think you'll find that the K fmember is the same for small and big block cars. It's the Slant Six that needs something different.
When you're doing floor repairs keep in mind that the four speed cars need hump on the driveshaft tunnel to accomodate the shifter mechanism. If you use something other than the A883 then you may not need the hump.
I was doing some research into the K-members, and it looks like for 71-72 all the 8's were the same. But of course, I'm special so my year differs between small and big block as well
https://www.engine-swaps.com/Pages/ProductsType/K-Frames.html
Good times, but no worries. Just a bridge to cross when we get there.Good to know about the transmission hump! It'll be another thing we'll have to keep in mind. Kind of weird moving forward without knowing exactly what's going to end up in and underneath of this thing. Right now I'm leaning toward that TKX but of course budget dictates and who knows what sort of deals we're going to find along the way.
I'm not seeing anything on that page that says that small and big blocks are different. The S6 is the slant 6.
'73 & up V8 K-Member
The easiest way of differentiating between 73 & up V8 and S6 K-members is to measure the inside of the perch.
• The S6 measures 2 3/4" across
• The V8 measures 3 3/4" across
In reply to Dusterbd13-michael :
I have never actuality used CF, I just know of them because of their AMC kits. I liked the QA1 stuff in my Cobra. Better than stock is a low bar 
If you are planning a modern internal rail shifter trans like the t5, tko, trx, et al, you dont need the four speed hump. You may need to enlarge the trans tunnel though.
I cut out the four speed hump and enlarged the tunnel when i went four speed to tko in mine.
Also: no shame in a flux core from harbor freight for welding body repair panels if thats all you got or can afford. I did my whole 64 el camino with one, and most of the amc.
Hungary Bill (Forum Supporter) said:
I might have to submit photos of the car for use on one of their magnets if they keep that up
I'm not sure if a Rock Auto magnet will even stick to that car at this point.
Before you get too deep (deeper?) into this thing, have you considered just hanging the body panels over an existing tube frame chassis?
It would probably get you on the track sooner, and possibly with a little more safetyishness.
As APEowner mentioned, the K frame with the rubber isolated K member B bodies ('73-79) is the same for all V8s.
It is also the interchangeable for all the B bodies in that range, which makes finding a replacement a bit easier (but in your case probably still bloody difficult.). Cordoba, Magnum, Fury, Coronet, Satellite and 300 are all fair game, as long as they are B body and V8. And TBH,a Slant Six K Frame will work in a pinch, as long as you are a decent welder, as it is just a matter of relocating the engine mounts on the K member. I know 'Murican Iron is really rare out your way, but this might even the odds, if only a little. When and if you get another K member, don't buy new rubber bushings for it- there are much better ways to go.
And before all that, Woody's point may prove to be pretty valid. I see an awful lot of structural rust, and I still haven't seen all the Usual Suspects for B/E Body rust areas yet. I would take a real close look at the rear subframes... or lack thereof. Especially where the rear shackles like to pop through the trunk pan like a bad impression of Jack Nicholson in The Shining.
More later, but if the car is sitting outside (or even if it isn't) root around in the cowl vent area, and make sure ALL the leaves, pine needles and dead animal nests are cleared out. The rust I see on the firewall tells me water has been standing in there for quite a while.
Finally found the thread.
This looks incredible - and very scary.
Let me know if you need help with the german rulebook!
In to see how this goes, almost had a charger of this vintage as a first car.
Went to look at it after seeing the ad in the paper, had the money to buy it with me and went with a friend. Looked solid, brown over brown, 360, auto, started and ran beautifully. It couldn't drive because of a transmission issue but came with a replacement transmission in the trunk. Offered to pay for it right there ($600) and I'd be back on the weekend with a trailer. He told me to pay on the weekend.
Weekend came and I was getting everything organized when he called me to tell me the car was picked up the night before, something about welfare and making additional money or something, I only remember it because it was so weird.
Looking forward to seeing how this turns out, and the house too!
APEowner said:Hungary Bill (Forum Supporter) said:APEowner said:Cool car. I'm looking forward to seeing what you do with it. I messed around with Mopars a lot in the '80s but mostly '68 - '70 B bodies.
I think you'll find that the K fmember is the same for small and big block cars. It's the Slant Six that needs something different.
When you're doing floor repairs keep in mind that the four speed cars need hump on the driveshaft tunnel to accomodate the shifter mechanism. If you use something other than the A883 then you may not need the hump.
I was doing some research into the K-members, and it looks like for 71-72 all the 8's were the same. But of course, I'm special so my year differs between small and big block as well
https://www.engine-swaps.com/Pages/ProductsType/K-Frames.html
Good times, but no worries. Just a bridge to cross when we get there.Good to know about the transmission hump! It'll be another thing we'll have to keep in mind. Kind of weird moving forward without knowing exactly what's going to end up in and underneath of this thing. Right now I'm leaning toward that TKX but of course budget dictates and who knows what sort of deals we're going to find along the way.
I'm not seeing anything on that page that says that small and big blocks are different. The S6 is the slant 6.
'73 & up V8 K-Member
The easiest way of differentiating between 73 & up V8 and S6 K-members is to measure the inside of the perch.
• The S6 measures 2 3/4" across
• The V8 measures 3 3/4" across
ah, blame my brain. Somewhere between perusing B-Bodies only and looking at that site, I had it in my head that the measurement difference was big vs small block... That certainly makes things easier!
Dusterbd13-michael said:If you are planning a modern internal rail shifter trans like the t5, tko, trx, et al, you dont need the four speed hump. You may need to enlarge the trans tunnel though.
I cut out the four speed hump and enlarged the tunnel when i went four speed to tko in mine.
Also: no shame in a flux core from harbor freight for welding body repair panels if thats all you got or can afford. I did my whole 64 el camino with one, and most of the amc.
I've got my Eastwood 250DC Tig and I absolutely love it. For a beginner's machine, it is 100% Bill-Proof. Just set your regulator, set your amps, and work the pedal from there.
Easy money.
(I do want a more spendy machine though. Something with pulse and an AC option would be nice. Maybe a water cooled torch?)
Woody (Forum Supportum) said:Before you get too deep (deeper?) into this thing, have you considered just hanging the body panels over an existing tube frame chassis?
It would probably get you on the track sooner, and possibly with a little more safetyishness.
Funny you say that. Mezzanine and Burrito were talking about the same thing on the book of faces. It's definitely a case of "dang we have it good in the states, don't we"?
I've yet to see a tube frame that wasn't some sort of Forumula 500 (or similar) out here, but I'm sure they've got to exist somewhere. I've got my eyes open, but I don't have high hopes of lightning striking twice.
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