Also take the time to wiggle the rockers. With the engine at rest, and the valve closed, check how loose each rocker is. If, in fact, you're on seven, one or more lifters could have lost it and allowed too much lash. You will have to rotate the engine a few times to check all of them when the valves are closed.
In reply to tuna55:
Sounds good.
Cams are good, fuel is good, wires are good, passenger-side rear plug is bad. Time to replace the plugs, along with the body mount bushings ($160 before shipping 
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G_Body_Man wrote: Cams are good, fuel is good, wires are good, passenger-side rear plug is bad. Time to replace the plugs, along with the body mount bushings ($160 before shipping
Whoa whoa whoa on that last part. I don't know G bodies, but lots on here do. I am betting some combination of hockey pucks and window weld and a McMaster catalog can replace those for a heck of a lot less.
In reply to tuna55:
My dad is super strict on doing things properly, but also is super strict that he won't pay for it.
G_Body_Man wrote: In reply to tuna55: My dad is super strict on doing things properly, but also is super strict that he won't pay for it.
There is nothing improper about that repair. It's most likely better and longer lasting than OEM. Please ask for help on this before you drop $160 on some cruddy 80's design rubber donuts.
In reply to tuna55:
The only body mounts I can find are polyurethane. I figure that they would be a nice upgrade, plus I kind-of need them anyways 
You're putting new body mounts on a car with a rusty frame and a possibly bad motor. Okay then.
In reply to pres589:
Motor's good, new frame rail needs to be welded in, new bumper needs to be installed, along with a bunch of other little things. It's coming along nicely, but there's still much work to go. At least the floors are solid!
Remove interior. Get roll cage. Attach cage to frame AND body. No need for body mounts.
Boom done.
In reply to wvumtnbkr:
I wish I could, but then it would no longer be a Brougham 
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