1986 Toyota Land Cruiser 70-Series for Slow Exploration

There's been lots of discussion at work lately regarding wheels and tires for this thing. The current setup has Delta Trailcutter AT 4S tires, 31x10.5R15. I don't know the specs on the wheels. I'll measure next time I pull one off (safe to say wider and more offset than stock. The current 15" barely clears the rear drum brakes! The spare is a different size, 265/70-16. The rolling diameters aren't far off, so it would probably work if needed in a pinch. I like the all-around tread design that isn't too noisy on the street. I'll be honest, and say that I'm happy to give up some traction in gnarly off-road situations I will likely encounter only now and again for a bit more peace and quiet on the slab which I will be dealing with more often.

Issues as I see it:

-The current mismatched sizes become a potential problem  once I upgrade to something other than an open rear differential. Also not ideal for a five-tire rotation.

-I don't love the chrome/polished finish. I don't hate the general bullet-hole/phone-dial style of the wheels, but I'd prefer a different finish. Some have suggested that they are "Boomer-spec Jeep wheels." 🤣

-I'm not lacking for footprint. I've almost never broken traction outside of two instances, one while dumping the clutch on gravel with revs up in first gear, and once while stomping on the brakes hard at low speed on soaking wet asphalt during a downpour. Both were a 'chirp' for a fraction of a second. I could use a rotating weight reduction. Lighter weight would help me here. Narrower would also help pep it up with slightly reduced rolling resistance.

-Current and future tall/skinny AT tire availability looks better for 16" than 15" 

My coworkers are all more experienced at this stuff than me, even if it is 80's/90's  G-Wagens, Jeeps, or Tacomas instead of Landcruisers. I've also asked a few of our local-ish dealers who do a lot of 70-Series Toyota stuff. The consensus is tall and skinny tires are the way to go. The wide steamroller brodozer crap is just that.

There seems to be lots of tire selection in 235/85-16. The 31" diameter is pretty good.Slightly taller by an inch or less wouldn't hurt (I don't think.)

I'm leaning towards a forged JDM five or six-spoke alloy like Volk TE37XT, or 4x4 Engineering Bradley V Takumi. This should give the right restomod look with a performance boost. Not cheap, so the purchase will likely have to wait. The finish I have in mind is gold or a lighter bronze.

I'm still a relative n00b at this stuff, so I'm open to suggestions or comments.

A te37 or a variant there of is almost impossible to go wrong. Heck, I almost went with te37s on my SS and if I could get them for the d90 it'd be a done deal. I'm also a big fan of tall/skinny tires over balloons and I think this body style is perfect to accentuate that. IMHO, you're on the right track.

E36 M3, I just found volks on ebay in the big d90 pattern...

I like Nomad Wheels offerings right now, and Fifteen52 has a couple vintage-ish options. Bronze on red is a perfect color combo for the wheels. Can you fit a 255/85-16? Works out to about 33x10.5 in inches. 

255/85R16 is indeed, theoretically, about 33". I wanted tall and skinny on the J20 and went for Cooper S/T Maxx in that size, and was pretty disappointed that they are both shorter and fatter than advertised. I mean, so am I, but nobody pays me four figures to look tall and skinny.

235/85R16 is probably a more appropriate size for the little Cruiser, and I believe Toyo offers a 235/85R16 that actually measures out as advertised, or at least looks like it. There are far more choices in the 235 than the 255, for whatever that is worth to you.

iansane said:

E36 M3, I just found volks on ebay in the big d90 pattern...

Yes; I say do it! 😁

In reply to thatsnowinnebago :

Thanks for the suggestions! I've taken a look at both, and I'm not a big fan of the ones both brands offer that look like an alloy version of a stock steelie with a dog dish hubcap...too vintage IMHO. The other models from either brand come close, but none quite have a mix of the particular style I'm after plus exactly the right size. It's hard to put it finger on exactly what it is, but they look like modern wheels that have some vintage styling cues. I'm picky...😜

Here's examples of the styles I'm digging at the moment.

255/85-16 *might* fit without a lift, maybe just a little rubbing at the extremes. I doubt they would save me any weight, and the slightly taller height is also going the wrong way for adding pep/acceleration. The 235/85-16 should theoretically be right around 31.75 inches.

DarkMonohue said:

 both shorter and fatter than advertised. I mean, so am I, but nobody pays me four figures to look tall and skinny.

🤣

I'll look at the Toyo offerings in the 235...thanks for the tip!

I got a beefier universal exhaust hanger bracket (slightly thicker steel) and set about drilling holes in the perfect spot to line up with my existing exhaust.

In the process of installing it, I realized that the next hanger downstream is also broken. It snapped off at the cold raised booger-looking weld between the hanger and the pipe. I'm guessing it failed before the hanger I just replaced, and then hastened the demise of the one I already fixed, but it is probably a chicken/egg scenario as to what started things.

It might be hard to see in the photo below, but the rod is definitely not attached to the pipe any longer.

I left it for now, as I was at work after-hours, and didn't feel like shuffling vehicles around to get access to an empty lift, digging out the welder, getting the settings dialed in, getting the pipe clean, etc, etc. I went home for dinner instead, but someday soon...

On a side note, the Cruiser seems to love the cold temperatures lately. I can feel/hear the turbo spooling, especially in third gear, and it scoots along a lot better than when it sucking in hot air. 😄

In reply to ae86andkp61 (Forum Supporter) :

No worries.  It seems like 235/85 might be an OEM size for something.  For whatever reason, there are tons of choices in that size and very few in 255/85.  

In reply to ae86andkp61 (Forum Supporter) :

The five spokes on the pickup are **chef's kiss** 🤌

The crusty, chalky, worn-down old parking brake handle was bothering me as it is one of the only shabby parts of the interior. I feel like the touch points are of extra importance as they make a difference in how you interact with the vehicle, and therefore can't help but impact how you feel about it while driving.

Ah  the joys of the first removal of the center console in a new used vehicle!  You always get to learn about the previous owner's fast food and candy preferences, like it or not! If you're lucky, you'll find some money and not too many suspicious-looking hairs! 🤣 In this case I was dealing with a french fries and Snickers man. No change to add to the piggy bank, but on the flip side, no hairs. 😁 I cleaned everything thoroughly before reassembly!

Just the plastic portion of the handle isn't replaceable, and the original part is NLA from Toyota. I took a minor chance and ordered up one to fit a current Toyota 70-Series from the Middle East, and in three days it was delivered!

The top one is the 1986 part, and the bottom one is the 2024 part! The switch needed to be swapped over, but both switches were held on by a machine screw, and the the new part had the appropriate hole drilled in it to bolt right on.

I adjusted the cable while I was in there, and couldn't be happier with the result!


 

As I finished up and pulled out of the bay, I noticed a little fluid on the floor. It felt/smelled like diesel! 

I dug around under the hood and spotted a thin film of fuel residue on the outside of the fuel filter housing inlet and outlet, the front of the injection pump, and the outside of the hard line in-between. This location roughly lined up with the drips on the floor. The hard line has banjo fittings on both ends. I grabbed a wrench and tried each associated banjo bolt. I was able to get the upper one on the filter outlet tightened up a smidge...maybe a sixteenth of a turn or so. The rest of the fittings seemed tight.

Diesel is so thin and runny it creeps and wicks everywhere and can be hard to trace. I hosed the area down with brake cleaner, and started it back up. I couldn't see any leaks, so I figured I'd give it a whirl. One nice thing about diesel is that a very minor fuel leak isn't great, but it also isn't a berkeley-no, I'll-walk-home-instead, immediately life-threatening situation like gasoline can be.

After a short drive, still no sign of leaks, so I'll proceed with caution and keep an eye on it.

thatsnowinnebago said:

In reply to ae86andkp61 (Forum Supporter) :

The five spokes on the pickup are **chef's kiss** 🤌

Agreed! I dig the retro aftermarket wheel look with flat spokes, a good bit of dish and a simple lip. I'll probably buy some at some point, most likely after the holidays to make sure I don't venture any further into financial peril!

I love this truck!

following!

wyndscreen said:

I love this truck!

following!

Thanks; I'm having fun with it, and I'm glad to see you enjoy following along.

No further indications of a fuel leak as of today. 🤞 Some of the other fasteners have match marks painted on them. Perhaps I should add some to the banjos on the fuel supply! 🤔

The rattling/buzzing door latch rod in the passenger side of the Cruiser has been driving me nuts, so I tore into the door. Sure enough, the foam that quiets the rod no longer exists...either removed, or simply faded away to dust over the years. Some dingleberry in the past also tore out the vapor barrier and didn't put it back! 😡 No wonder there's been occasional dampness around the passenger footwell in downpours!

What you see above is what was behind the fiberboard card! The backside of the door card has certainly seen some moisture.

I don't have all the materials on hand to fix this now, so I'll leave the card off until I do. I think I'm good on adhesive-backed foam. Time to order up some plastic sheeting, butyl rubber, and might as well get some sound deadening while I'm at it.

Today's small task. I took care of the cheap-looking overspray on the pedals from when it was repainted, and installed new pedal rubbers. The old rubber covers weren't terrible, but were showing some wear, and replacements were cheap. Sometimes the small things make a big difference! 😁

Yes indeed - small steps!  How hard were the covers to put on?  I've had some that were way more challenging than I thought they had a right to be

In reply to jfryjfry :

Not bad at all to install; the fresh rubber is pretty pliable. In the past I've used rubbing alcohol on difficult ones as I helps lube them and then quickly evaporates. I didn't need it this time. I just made sure the rubber was warm, and started on the stiffest part (one of the corners on the shortest side) and worked them around in a circular fashion, ending on the most flexible part (middle of the longest side.) 

I used the Landcruiser to move stuff from my storage unit to home yesterday, and went exploring the Western Willamette Valley, Chehalem Mountains, and out into the edge of the Coast Range today. Fun and scenic even if very wet and somewhat foggy! I drove through vineyards, hazelnut orchards, farms raising blueberry, hops, grass seed, and Christmas trees, forests, logging clearcuts, and more. Many fields were flooded, all the creeks were really high, and I was glad for the high ground clearance fording some areas the road was flooded.

I was also glad for the heater that can really crank out some warmth! I was also glad for the reassurance of 4WD on one really muddy and wet unpaved road. It gets pretty gloomy and rainy in the PacNW this time of year, but today was a great day nonetheless!

After debating about digging up the welder and doing it myself, I got lazy and took the Cruiser to the muffler shop to have the broken hanger welded up, and ended up very glad I did. (Side note: E36-M3-swapped E30 coupe in the next bay!)

It turns out it had a baffled muffler for a gas truck on it that was a significant restriction! It makes sense with what I've observed (running hot, feeling down on power, and sometimes wondering about the turbo spooling only briefly before feeling like it hits a wall.) I felt foolish for not considering/checking it myself, but also felt relieved that it wasn't just an upsell ploy on the part of the muffler guy.

It now has the right muffler, a new hanger, and the response and turbo spool has improved noticeably! 😁

Only one drive so far, but the muffler definitely freed up a couple of ponies! I'd say it has gone from slow to slightly-less slow. It is nice to be able to floor it without a downshift now and feel some acceleration while hearing "psssssSSSSSSHEEEE!" 😆 It builds boost sooner and carries it further into the rev range. We'll have to see how much better it does climbing a steep incline, which is where performance has been the most disappointing. 

Additional side note for any eagle eyes that noted the AZ trip permit temporary registration that was mounted on the plate holder has been swapped for OR temporary registration in the rear window: the transfer has been submitted to the local DMV. They tell me I should have the real-deal paperwork and plates via mail in 10 weeks or so. 😅

I was working on sorting/organizing/cleaning in the garage today, but also found time to look at the Cruiser's swing away stop pin, which hasn't been working correctly. I'm tired of trying to hold both the spare so it doesn't dent the rear door or berkeley up the paint *while* I'm also trying to load stuff in the back. Barn doors are cool, but have their own issues compared to a tailgate.

The problem was that the pin was bent just enough it wouldn't retract enough to engage the lock to hold it open. Looking at the marks on the bumper and the bend in the pin, my guess is that at some point previously the whole thing came out of adjustment, and the pin dropped too low to clear the bumper. A vigorous swing (or gust of wind) or two, and the pin got bent and the bumper paint got chipped. The hole in the latch also got a nice dent that meant that even if the pin weren't bent, I don't think it would have engaged. Oh, and the whole thing is getting rusty!

Thankfully the pin still rotates, and the adjuster and locknut aren't seized. I didn't get a before shot with the pin in place unfortunately.

I rotated the pin until the bend was facing outwards, carefully lined up my sledge with the bottom of the bent pin, and two good whacks later it was straight and easy to lift up!

I promptly unthreaded the pin assembly.

Here's the various spots the out-of-adjustment pin blasted bits of paint/powdercoat off the bumper. The way it is flaking makes me think it might be powder.

The plan for the bumper is see how much I can remove the flat spot in the hole with a BFH/drift, and then hit it with a Dremel if needed to make it nice and round. Then a quick once-over with a wire brush to remove the loose stuff. I'll probably do a solvent wipe down, and then brush POR15 onto the missing chunks of paint/rusty steel. Once I've got good initial coverage of the metal/rust, I'll mask and try to blend some semi-gloss black spray paint as best I can.

The plan for the pin assembly is clean it up with a wire brush and reassemble with grease on the moving parts, and thread locker on the adjustable parts, then quickly reassemble, confirm proper adjustment/operation, and torque.

I made some good progress on the swing away painting. It isn't quite ready for reassembly, but getting close. I'll get some photos soon.

The swing away release handle has a nice rubber grip that is split and nearly falling off. The handle is just made from flat steel stock, so the rubber makes a big difference in comfort. I was able to order a replacement from Dobinson's USA; only $10. 😁

I will have my plate soon, so I started looking at the brackets that someone prior to me made for mounting a US plate. Also time to remove the plastic license plate frame, one of my pet peeves. 

I decided to take the bracket off because the bolts for the plate were installed from the backside, with nuts holding the plate on. The bolts are too long to remove with the nut off; they hit the door before they come out. Reaching the head of the bolt to hold it while tightening the nuts is awkward. The license plate light blocks access from above, and the bumper blocks access from below. You have to open the door and come up from below. It would be much nicer with a captive nut, rivnut, or stud so that install/removal won't require two wrenches and opening the door.

When I got the bracket off, it struck me as being heavy/overbuilt. It is made from 1-1/4" steel bar that is almost 1/4" thick. This certainly isn't a lightweight vehicle, so it wouldn't be a big deal except that this several pound steel bar attaches to the door via long screws, through long standoffs, into tiny plastic anchors inserted into holes in the middle of the flat sheet metal exterior door skin. I decided to remake them in aluminum to reduce the strain on the anchoring hardware and the door skin. Now that I have a plan, I'll dig around in my metal stock and see what I have.

The other small progress that was overdue was replacing the DOT fluid in the clutch and brake.

I also did a ton of research on 24V->12V converters over the weekend. My seats are shipping from Germany, and the seat heat and ventilation requires 12V power. The current converter is a cheap unit only rated for 5A, and the seats can draw nearly 5A each, so I'll probably get a 30A converter to leave me overhead for future accessories. 

Since converters draw power all the time, I'm thinking I'll use a 24V relay, triggered by the cigarette lighter circuit (which is switched power) and draw 24V power into the converter from just downstream of the second battery with an inline fuse. I'll also fuse 12V power out of the converter to the seats. The relay will ensure that the converter doesn't draw down the batteries while the key is switched off. I'll try to draw up a wiring diagram soon.

I gather that it is recommended to ground the 12V accessories back to the 12V negative on the converter, and not to the chassis, since all the 24V systems are grounded to the chassis.

Hold on a sec. Is this whole thing on 24V? Lights and heater and radio and everything? Or am I misunderstanding something?

In reply to DarkMonohue :

Yes, it is a 24V vehicle. It has two humongous 12V batteries in series providing power to everything electrical that Toyota put in the vehicle: starter, lights interior and exterior, relays, wiper motor, blower motor, dash, defrost, all 24V.

You can see the two batteries on opposite sides of the engine bay here, with identical battery tenders on them:

This setup isn't without reason. The sizable energy reserve makes sense for a round-the-world, any-scenario capable vehicle. On the trip back from Arizona after buying it, the alternator died, and I was able to drive 750-800 miles over two days with no charging system! I didn't even have to bump start it!

Another reason for 24V is cranking over huge cylinders with a 20:1 compression ratio takes a lot of juice. Yet another reason is that these are used by militaries which often have a 24V standard for vehicles.

Maintaining battery balance is a concern. Adding certain accessories is a challenge. Things like lighting and winches are readily available in 24V versions. Car audio, seat heat, GPS, aftermarket cameras, etc is much tougher. Definitely a pain in the ass in many ways.

A few small updates:

I got started on an aluminum license plate bracket. I'll add some rivnuts and probably powdercoat it once I've got all the edges tidied up. Maybe do it as a batch with the eyesore diamond plate from the top of the bumper. 🤔

There's a little bit of oil appearing on the exhaust heat shield underneath the turbo. Not a large amount; probably a quantity that can be measured in drops/week. Hard to tell where it is coming from...there was a trace on the cool side housing, right underneath the pipe to the intake. I cleaned it off and will keep an eye on it to see if I can determine the source.

The Victron DC-DC converter I was looking at is sold out everywhere, so I found an Aims unit that seems comparable and ordered it. The next morning I got a very polite phone call informing me that both the supplier and Aims are sold out, but I was able to back order it, and hopefully it should arrive late this month or early next.

I put diesel in it for the first time in a while. 350 miles, and it took just over 17 gallons, or about 20.2 mpg. The miles were mostly urban, plus some backroads exploring and a little bit of highway. At least half the tank if not slightly more was with the new less-restrictive muffler. Pretty good, IMO. It will be interesting to see if I can improve even more with a tank entirely on the new muffler. As a note, it was indicating around 1/8 tank. If it really is a 23.8 gallon tank, crunching the numbers means there's about 4 gallons difference between indicated empty and bone dry. How much of that reserve is useful? Hopefully I won't find out, but signs point towards a 400-mile range.

I confirmed that the two lowest speeds on the blower motor fan aren't working. I had my doubts, but couldn't tell if the were not working, or just really weak/working poorly. I'll add it to the list for the HVAC overhaul. 

I've also noticed that the occasional stuck-on brake light has become somewhat more frequent. I need to see if it is the switch or the pedal that is sticking. I'm honestly really enjoying having an older vehicle project again...always something to do, and always a new source of gratification once sorted.

Chipping away at tasks in the shop at work after hours. My co-worker working on the 911 commented, "80's dream garage." 😁