was a rod grinding the tube, or the crank counterweight? you'd see a mark.
was a rod grinding the tube, or the crank counterweight? you'd see a mark.
In reply to Matthew Kennedy :
I have no clue how I am thinking there must have been a loose bearing on the rod closest and it was rubbing though the rod doesn't show any wear, Its not a hole yet but it is darn close.
The cylinder walls look good, I am going to hone them because why not. No I have not yet but I am betting they are too tight.
I am thinking all the metal was coming from the tube being ground away as I cannot see any metal wear on anything else. The other oring is still in the block when I tool this picture
In reply to bentwrench :
Yeah I am at a loss at what the noise is coming from still I am going to measure everything and go from there
Have not checked the bearings in the aux shaft because they are apparently impossible to source and I done want to take them out if I don't have too it spins really smooth with no binding in its current state.
Yeah the trans seems ok from what I can tell, feels like a tractor trans like always
Water pump spins free an doesn't make any noise same as the alternator.
Yeah I thought for sure once I got it open I would see a shreaded bearing or something but the only damage I found was the pipe for the pumo
Do you have a cylinder bore gage? If not another way to check to see if the bore changes, insert a ring and check the gap, start at the top and moved it down the bore a little at a time, check the gap about every 2 inch down the bore. You want proper gap and you don't want it to change much down the length of the bore.
A mistake I made once, had a bearing cap flipped around and it seemed to fit, but it caused binding.
stylngle2003 said:was a rod grinding the tube, or the crank counterweight? you'd see a mark.
I did not see any marks
In reply to icdpride :
I don't think either the crank nor a rod is capable of hitting it there, or at all. I think the rod caps and counterweights are pretty much flush with the main caps at BDC, so you shouldn't be able to get the rotating assembly anywhere close to the transfer tube.
There's really no scuffing at all on this counterweight?
In reply to Matthew Kennedy :
Checked the counter weight and there is no sign of rubbing
Now that its apart my question is should I go forged rods? Is it really worth it is I keep the stock na pistons or is it a waste with out forged pistons?
So being an '86 it doesn't have 13mm rods, right?
I've asked a similar question, about my options, I've got a '76 B21E, a '91 B230F, and a mystery engine that should be a '87 B230FT based on the car that it's in.
When considering my options, I was told to go with the '91 for the better rods, but was then told folks were running 15+ psi on their skinny rods with N/A pistons.
As cheap as the eBay rods are I can see the temptation.
I'd say if you're not doing pistons now, skip the rods, do both when you can, and turn up the boost then.
looking at the oil pump tube it is not symmetrical, is it possible it was swapped end for end and would that cause it to rub?
In reply to bigdaddylee82 :
Yes the 86 has the 9mm skinny rods but I swapped them for a set of the newer 13mm rods
Yeah the ebay rods are the temptation $150 for new forged rods and hardware because god only know how old my rod bolts are
In reply to OldDave :
Correct it is not symmetrical but it is in the factor position and had never been off until I took it off
In reply to TED_fiestaHP :
Yeah I am going to check that and go from there and then check everything and try to reassemble and see if I can get it to bind turning it over by hand
Those eBay rods, usually list ARP 2000 rod bolts as being included.
If you've already got 13mm rods though, I wouldn't replace them with the eBay rods until you're doing pistons too. Depending on how crazy you decide to get, you may never replace either.
As you assemble things rotate it by hand and watch for to much friction. Assemble the crank and main, rotate. Add one rod and piston, the friction going up and down the cylinder should not change. Rotate at least once as each piston / rod goes on. There will be some friction, but shouldn't change as the pistons go up and down the bore, if they do then you have a bore issue similar to what I once did, and that won't work.....
Got it so don't have ass it got, I appreciate all the feed back. Keep the 13mm till I am ready to do pistons as well or I break something.
I was temped to do the rods so I wouldn't have a catastrophic failure as I am new to tuning but it seems like it would happen even if it was forged, because unfortunately redblocks are not that readily available in any of the junk yards in Syracuse Ny.
On last question, should I at least be changing out the hardware on the rods? Are they like head bolts or are the reusable?
So I measured the ring gap and I think they are all too tight but they also very greatly from cylinder to cylinder
Looks like I need to th hone the cylinders and do some math to get these right
Potentially stupid question:
do the new rods go with a smaller diameter crank? I don't kno Volvos, and it seems like you are on the right track with the rings, but there you go.
wheelsmithy said:Potentially stupid question:
do the new rods go with a smaller diameter crank? I don't kno Volvos, and it seems like you are on the right track with the rings, but there you go.
Yes as far as I know the crank is the same and the rod bearing seat is the same size for the 9mm and 13 just different thickness of rod its self
If you do some work with the hone, should be able to get the reading closer to the same top to bottom, it's very close. A very tiny change in dia is causing the gap to change, the gap only changes a tiny bit. Also check see if those gaps are with in a normal range. Don't file the rings until after you are done with the hone, a tiny change will effect the gap.
The biggest gap would normally be about 2 inches down from the top of the block. Would be easier to check with a bore gage.
In reply to TED_fiestaHP :
What kind of hone would you suggest a 3 stone or a ball hone?
Maybe both, 3 stone to actually take a tiny amount of material off. Then get the final finish with a fine stone on the 3 stone type or final finish with the ball hone.
The final finish, you need to get the drill speed and the up and down motion just right to get the cross hatch and nice finish.
Once done clean with WD40, lots of it. Sounds odd, but I heard it's actually a good idea to assembly the pistons and rings with WD40 not oil, it helps to break-in the new rings. That's what I did, seemed to work.
Since I am waiting on tools and parts I though I would wire tuck everything and refresh the engine bay, fix all the scratches fill the unused holes delete the battery tray and repaint it
Battery tray delete
Bay refresh
Finally got some motivation (and time) to work on this heap got the bay all finished and all the wires tucked and hidden and put the engine back in.
Angle 1
Angle 2
And another one
And the money shot
Got it started and it seems the engine noise has been fixed Horray!!!! but I need to do something about the tune it is really hard to start and runs pig rich Now I try to learn how to tune horray
In reply to icdpride :
Runs and no noise !
You sir are killing it.
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