Okay, so let's catch up on the car. First thing I did after the first event was a skid plate. The subframe and steering rack was a huge drag in the deep, rutted turns in Frostburg. 
1/8" piece of aluminum I mocked up with cardboard and bent with the blade of a Ditch Witch and some bricks. Redneck, I know. I wanted to lose whatever weight I could while still keeping it civil (just in case someone wanted to trade me for a BMW), so got rid of all the AC components, some big triangle shaped support things that are supposed to transfer force to the axle if you're rear ended, and hacked the rear muffler off since it began to fall off during a run. <img src="
I also got the cheapest shocks Autozone had (Gabriel Ultras) since I wasn't sure what I was going to do with suspension yet, but the car desperately needed shocks. At this point I decided I actually sort of like the car, body roll, 90 hp and all. 
I ran across an 89' 760 turbo on craigslist an hour from me for $400, so I went and got it. I know everyone is going to wonder why I thought the best upgrade path for my 240 was to turbo it. I don't really have a good answer, but if anyone else got a turbo car for $400 and was able to sell the bare chassis for $200, I hate to think you wouldn't do the same.
I decided to do this the way most people wouldn't. Instead of pulling the B230FT from the 760, I decided to turbo the B230F that was in the 240. There were a few reasons I went this route, the two most important of which were: -higher compression would feel a little better when I was out of boost -I can set the B230FT back for a winter build I got lucky with model years of these cars. My 86 240 used LH2.2 for fuel injection and a Chrysler computer to control timing. The 89 760 still used LH2.2 for injection. If it would have been any newer, it would have been LH2.4, and the wiring required would have been a little more involved and I would need to modify the flywheel or source one. Anyway, that wasn't the case. The ECU from the 760 to the 240 was a direct swap. I did have to update to the Bosch EZK timing computer (yes, these cars use a separate computer for fuel and timing) and get rid of the Chrysler unit. There was some wiring involved, but it wasn't a bad job at all. I used this thread to guide me through the swap: LH2.2 Chrysler to EXK thread 
EZK ignition computer and harness cut from the 760 and ready to patch into the 240's fuel harness. The plan was to get oil from an super handy, threaded oil gallery in the front of the block and return it to the drain pan. I got a 90 degree fitting for the feed and a 45 degree fitting for the pan. 
Blue 90 fitting below the water pump. I'm not sure why Volvo put this there, but I'm glad they did.
See that motor mount on the radiator support? It was pretty beat, so I got a new one. More on that later. 
I figured it was a good time to fix some wiring that was falling apart.
Might as well do an intake gasket while it's apart. The whole turbo swap took me a few weeks, but I screwed around ordering parts (gaskets, oil lines, fittings) and went on vacation. 
I still needed a fan and exhaust, but at least it was a running turbo car with no leaks or problems other than a clutch that wanted nothing to do with the additional 60hp. 
I put a Luk clutch for a turbo car in with the help of a friend who never works on cars. Now I doubt he ever will again. 
Race cars have side pipes, right?
I made an electric fan work from a V70XC by hacking up the V70 shroud and fitting it on the 760 shroud. It was free, so that's nice. It also moves a ton of air. It's wired straight to the battery (fused in line) and switched through a relay to the factory fog light switch on the dash. 
I did install a boost gauge also. Volvo guys may notice that my DL has a tach. I didn't mention that I bought a 244 GL parts car at some point during this. I'm sure there will be a post about it at some point. Anyway, I took the tach from that car. I wanted some type of shield for the cone filter intake, so I built one. I may do it in aluminum when I get around to it. It does a good job of protecting it from being directly splashed with mud, and I'm sure helps with heat some. 
I also welded the diff. I was back and forth on this, and I really would have liked a proper limited slip. Again, that's a possibility for this winter.
I also did trailing arm bushings (that was the annoying clunk the car always had). Internet says all kinds of stuff about that job. I went into it thinking it was going to take me a Saturday. It really took about 20 minutes per side. I burned out the old bushing, used my reciprocating saw to cut a slit in the outer metal, and slid it out by hand. Then I used MAPP gas to heat up the holes and slid the new bushings (which had been in the freezer for 4 hours) into place. They slid right in. I was able to line them up and orient them with my fingers. So... don't go borrowing a press to do those. So that gets us current up to tonight!
