Awesome! My boy's middle school technology teacher told me I can start using the CAD certified kids for car projects. 
Awesome! My boy's middle school technology teacher told me I can start using the CAD certified kids for car projects.
Cad certified middleschoolers? Damn I wish my old school had something like that. Great work so far man
Sweet, I hope everyone who has any interest in these brake brackets is able to get a set of their own.
Once you crunch the numbers on a brake upgrade and see how minimal the cost increase is on Wilwoods over a different OEM caliper, plus the upkeep savings Wilwoods provide, I'll never run anything else when upgrading. I can get any pad compound Wilwood offers for $40, that's bonkers.
What's the distance between the two pairs of holes? Looks like that spacing is missing.
Uhh, E36 M3. If that photo next to the tape measure isn't usable I'll measure that next time I'm out to the race shop.
No problem. Looks like there's some goofy perspective stuff going on with that tape measure picture, I can't get it to skew correctly to where I'd trust it. If you could scan/copy the bracket with a ruler to eliminate the perspective issue, that would help.
Alright, two different measurements between the two sides. 1.02" on one and 0.97" on the other.
Okay, here's the first draft.
Having made quite a few sketchy brackets myself, I'm going to risk offending you and assume it's not intentionally asymmetrical. What changes would you like to make to this?
(Note: The drawing's rounded to two decimal places in this view, I used the X.XXX dimensions you measured in your previous posts.)
Wow, looks cool. Handy skill you have there. 
Sweet, I guesstimated the measurements and eyeballed the bit placement on the drill press. The only change I would make is to the 1.18 measurement on the right side of the image. The pads hang off the outer edge of the rotor ever so slightly (1/16"?) and if I did it again I would move the caliper towards the center of rotor a bit more so the pad swept the rotor face completely.
Nice work though, that'll be super handy for people I bet.
Okay, sounds good. I'll make that change when I get home tonight, and send you a PDF to distribute for people to use as a template.
Shoot me a PM with your email address so I can send it to you. Can't attach anything to messages here.
It's been a while since the last update but I've been slowly working on getting the wiring sorted on the car, which isn't very photogenic. I did start getting the wiring harmess laid out in the engine bay, which is a bit of a milestone worth documenting. I'm pretty happy with how the intake side turned out. I orginally laid everything on top of the manifold but no matter how I positioned it I wasn't happy. It took me a bit to realize that I was no longer required to use the factory routing and could run the harness under the intake with the aftermarket manifold. I think it looks much cleaner and turned out nicely. The ecu area needs to have a few final wires for the dash gauges wired up, run the fuel pump signal wire, and then cover it all in loom.
The next hurdles are to figure out where the igniter and coil pack go but I think that will be greatly simplified by just making new brackets for those.
Started work on the water pipe connecting the thermostat housing and radiator. I reused the 180 degree bend from the Chevette but everything else was new metal. It was a big ordeal to wiggle the finished pipe between the block, firewall, and wiring harness so I wanted to rethink how the support worked on the radiator side of the pipe. I needed something low profile and able to clear the radiator hose, I ended up going with a slip fit tube that bolts to an unused mount on the motor.
Great build you have some skills my good man
Thanks, that's nice to hear.
Finding all of the required fittings and dealing with the BSPT threads on the Mitsubishi motor has been a bit of a hassle. The intake manifold also has small vacuum ports which made plumbing the vacuum booster for the brakes suck and left me with a less than ideal solution. It should be sufficient for this build but it is by far the jankiest think I've put on this car yet.
Finally, here's where the engine bay is at as of today.
Have you thought about using one-touch fittings for those vacuum lines? You could probably find a one-touch check valve for pretty cheap, too.
I haven't because I didn't know they were a thing. I probably won't use them right now but I'm not against scrapping the current setup and going to those when I start changing things next winter.
They're pretty awesome for this sort of thing. There's a huge array of sizes and adapters available.
What's a one touch fitting?
Here's one from McMaster that's got NPT threads on the other end. They're for plastic flexible tubing. Super easy to use, you just cut your tubing to length, and shove it in the fitting. Locks in place, good for a 200+ psi, usually. This one's $3 from McMaster, and there's a HUGE array of dimensions and fitting combination available.
http://www.smcusa.com/top-navigation/cad-models/21957
SMC carries a TON of different ones if you want to poke through their website as well. They don't have a retail front, but Allied Electronics carries all their stuff.
They're used a lot in laboratory stuff and pneumatic control systems. While they can be used for fluid, the lack of valving makes them somewhat messy, but they're perfect for pneumatic controls.
unevolved wrote:
Hey, like a shark bite for PEX. Neat.
Exactly! I haven't figured out yet why more people don't use them for turbo systems.
Mounted up the fuel pressure regulator this afternoon. I bent up a piece of flat stock aluminum then ran the fuel and vacuum lines after drilling it to bolt up to the intake manifold. The oil cooler was mounted in a similar manner to the core support but due to the lack of clearance between the intercooler and radiator I put cushioning on the oil cooler.
Next steps are to run the -10 lines for the oil cooler and keep making progress on the gauges. I need mounting solutions for the water, oil, and boost gauges, I'm thinking it'll be a dash plate in the radio spot. I'll have to drill and tap the lower thermostat housing for the mechanical water temp sender. I'm also going to convert the boost gauge to runner vacuum line instead of that awful plastic line.
Is that FPR mount strong enough? Looks like it'd be prone to vibrate and fatigue.
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