1987 Honda CRX SI. Annual Road Trips Since 2009 & Counting. No Rebuild, Restoration, Modification.

An unbroken chain of annual cross county road trips in a 1987 Honda CRX SI going back to  2008.  The experience started out as "reliability study, just how far can I push this Honda" to "Crap, this cars old.  I'd better refresh components to keep up for long-haul reliability".  Well, this is turning out to be "rebuilding" as I go.....

 

 "The Beater - CRX#1".   First Generation Honda Civic CRX SI 1G

 

 

 

 

This is the second car I owned.  Bought it in 1993 while I was in college.  She took me through 3 corporate jobs, Three resident states, a wife and 2 kids.  Was my daily driver until 2002 when our first child turned 1 and my wife  forbid the kids driving in this car.   Was able to push it another year in 2003, then my wife put her foot down.  I vowed I'd never sell this car.  (My buddies regretting selling their Nova SS's, Cameros and Mustangs of our 80's high school era).  I never sold mine.

 

Job and life (kid mandate)  got in the way.  I put the car in storage in 2004.  Let it sit until 2008.   Put a new battery in her.   Kept turning the key....  turning and turning....  One cylinder fired...  a second,....  kept cranking... the third, then finally the fourth!  She fired up on 4 year old gas!   The 4 year old gummed up gas (was stabilized) finally blew through all the injectors!

 

 I joined Redpepperracing in 2008.  Began a post in 2009.  Posted something like: "I'm driving from Texas to Michigan, what should I bring as spare parts?"  Here's the original post/threads since 2009:  http://www.redpepperracing.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=45890&page=6   I'll fill in a few high lights of the previous trips below. No a lot to tell.  Car always ran great.  Great gas mileage.  Due to time constraints and my anxiousness to get into the woods, I'd drive through the night.  So no sightseeing during the road trips.

 

2008 began annual trips back to my roots of mid-Michigan to hunt w my father in the thousands of acres of state land I hunted as a kid.

 

Earlier Trip Skiing in Vermont (taken in 1997 before the Maco paint job.  Sporting the 80's pinstripe, pre trailer hitch)

 

 

I spent my college weekends and holiday breaks trekking upper Michigan in search of the best fishing, camping, grouse hunting I could find.  Resurrecting this car post college has been reliving my childhood w smiles ear to ear.

 

RELIABILITY STUDY:   Purchase and repair history of the car.  A good roadmap to Fellow CRX owners of component replacement.  Repair history / Major Component replacement / sub assembly rebuild threads.

(Information below last updated 9/2023 295,600 miles)

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THIS SECTION OF POST #1 WILL BE UPDATED AS FUTURE REPAIRS ARE PERFORMED.  INTENT IS FOR 1G/3G OWNERS MAINTAINING MOSTLY OEM.   NO PERFORMANCE MODIFICATIONS.

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MAJOR COMPONENT LIFE SPAN:

ENGINE: original, unopened.  Pulled engine 2003 (Oil drips on driveway) to replace all the rubber hoses and dymanic seals w Honda OE (no leaks since).  Did not replace oil pan seal as down pipe was a PITA to move.  Oil pan started showing signs of leak residue 2 years ago.  So far, no drips in garage.  Honda says adjust valves every 30K.  Since mostly Highway, 60-70K intervals for this car is fine.  Burns 1/3 qrt between my 3000-4000 oil changes

TRANSMISSION: Removed 260K (new axle seals w 2003 engine pull). Differential bearings beginning to click.  Caused from pulling a trailer too much.  Car was not designed for this type of duty.  Syncs actually okay.  Second gear had become touchy.  Swapped w 43K junk yard tranny.   Plan to rebuild and place original back in service.

CV's: Rebooted w OE about every 60-70K.  Finally replaced at 250K, backlash more than I'd like.  No clicking.  NOS drivers side installed.  Passenger from low mileage donor.  I think the excessive backlash placed too much twisting on the boots (and have been using 25 year old Honda OE's.  Probably weakening due to age)

RADIATOR: Replaced 100K ish due to leak (probably weakened from accident).  Replace w ND copper original.  

DISTRIBUTOR: Original. Replaced igniter 250K for insurance.  New orings 2003.

STEERING RACK:  Discovered rack housing had crack from PO's accident.  replaced w junkie rack 2002ish.  Around 245K, hunking while turning wheel side to side when stopped.  Issue: tensioner needed adjusting.  Removed the JY rack from service.  Rebuilt a lower mileage rack.  Swapped original OE tie joints  (inner/outer) from low mileage rack.

MAIN RELAY: replaced around 160-180.  Intermitten failures of fuel pump.   Many fuel pumps have unnecessarily been replaced due to this part.

FUEL PUMP: 280K Replaced w used OE pump w 129K miles.  Pump still worked, very noisy - especially below 20F, low suction

LOWER CONTROL ARM / BALL JOINTS:  Original.  replaced boots several times

FRONT STRUTS: Replaced w Honda OE 120K ish = seeping (believe from accident)

REAR SUSPENSION: 240K. rear suspension sag 1".  broke shock bolts on axle due to rust while removing.  So swapped entire axle w lower mileage axle  w springs.  New kby shocks to replace factory originals.  spring spacers for factory ride height.

FUEL TANK: original, not cleaned yet.

VACUUM BOOSTER / MASTER CYLINDER:  MC leaked into booster around 240K (we both original).  MC cylinder pitted, couldn't rebuild.  Booster bent while removing MC.  Grabbed a clean, used booster, rebuilt w Honda NOS kit.  Replaced MC w JNP (made in japan).  Replaced factory original brake lines at time w Honda OE.

STARTER: Original

ALTERNATOR:  Bearings seizing 160-180K ish.  Replaced w a 100K Denso OE red label.  Later had to replace brushes, then rectifier, then rotor.  A seperate repair post on this.

IGNITION COIL: Replaced around 260K for insurance

MUFFLER: seem to replace every 40-65K.  Just rusts out quickly for me

AC SYSTEM:  Stopped working 200K ish??  Removed from car 240K for upcoming rebuild.  Keeping HOnda OE and r12.

REAR WHEEL BEARINGS: Replaced w BCA hubs (NTN bearing w NOK seals).  260K replace for insurance.  I just didn't know.  No noisey or obvious wear.

FRONT WHEEL BEARINGS: Replaced w Nachi 286K for insurance.  Broke a lub so good time to replace.  Once opened, the grease was still sticky.  I'll bet they could have gone another 50+K.

FAST IDLE CONTROL VALVE :: irratic idling during start up 2009 ish.  opened and cleaned.  288K, beginning to notice slight irregular idle during vary cold start up - assume its ready for another cleaning.

 

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SUB-ASSEMBLY REBUILD POSTS (Rebuilds back to Honda OE specification best possible to maintain car to original 1980's Japanese reliability)

Alternator:   http://www.redpepperracing.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=59494&hl=

Sanden A/C:   http://www.redpepperracing.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=59527&hl=

Rear Springs/shocks:   http://www.redpepperracing.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=59214&hl=

OE Exhaust:  http://www.redpepperracing.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=59488&hl=

Seatbelt Repair:    http://www.redpepperracing.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=59534&hl=

Electrical Issues:    http://www.redpepperracing.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=59533&hl=

Aluminum Rim Straightening:    http://www.redpepperracing.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=59484&hl=

Water Pump:    http://www.redpepperracing.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=59529&hl=

Steering Rack Rebuild:   http://www.redpepperracing.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=59394&hl=%2Bsteering+%2Brack
CV Axle Rebuild:  http://www.redpepperracing.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=59435&hl=%2Bsteering+%2Brack#entry580243

Plastics History (Honda HP-Alloy) How to Repair Fender/header/Side Skirts - the right way:  http://www.redpepperracing.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=45417&hl=plastics#entry580541

Door Side Skirts & Why They Crack:  http://www.redpepperracing.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=45357&page=2&hl=plastics#entry580374

Fuel Pump/Line replace/analysis:   Upcoming.

Radiator Flow Evaluation:  http://www.redpepperracing.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=59363&hl=radiator

Vacuum Booster / Master Cylinder Rebuild:  need to document, upcoming

 

Apparently, the car was totaled and rebuilt: salvage title in 1988.   I never knew it until I pulled a carfax years later.  Explained all the weird component failures below as 80's Hondas are bullet proof.  Keep this in mind as you breeze the repair list.

 

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DETAILED REPAIRS OVER LIFETIME

93 Purchased car.  $4200 w 78K on the clock

93 85K new complete aftermarket exhaust - A&B pipes

93 86K new aftermarket upper radiator hose

94 90K replaced timing/pump w oem.
*** moved Michigan to Long island NY - less salt,  a little more sun.  Lots of road abuse on the NY parkways****

94  gas smell under hood.  finally determined leaking fuel injector.  Fuel leaked not at seal, but fused connection of the metal to plastic in the middle of the injector barrel.  I replaced all injectors/seals - way over kill looking back at it.

94 97K  Finally got around to repairing hazards. Connection at the battery positive cable went bad - damaged and looks like from accident.

95 100K  front pass strut began seeping a little.  Bounce test was fine.  replaced struts w oe.  Replaced clutch/plate/bearing w oe.  aftermarket cv boots and oe ball joint boots.

95 105K  ND radiator leaking. replaced w another Nippon Denso.  Replaced muffler under warranty.   AC stopper working. I later found out if you swap the cooling fan and thermo sensor wire harness boot connections to the radiator, you blow the climate control module below the radio (took me 30hrs of testing all pieces down the damn black and blue sensing wire to find that.  (later found the dealer did the same to my concourse before I bought it when it was in a front end collision - that one took 30min to troubleshoot)

95 109K  found out rims were bending from hitting all the potholes driving in NYC.  got used rim from my favorite junkie in Mich.  Later took the bend rim to a shop to repair - they did a crap job.  Then experimented straightening my own.

1996 found 25K concourse car and bought as a spare.  Work beer trades w/ local Honda parts buddy and began buying maintenance parts to support both cars from what I assumed to own until I was 80yrs old.  Later started on weather trim, seals, plastics.  never had restoration in mind, just parts to keep them on the road.

96 113K  calipers dragging.  replaced w oe not knowing I just had to grease the pins.  Replaced aftermarket rotors, warped immediately.  returned and bought oe. From that point forward, no more aftermarket.

96 119K   broke blinker switch arm, replace w used oe.  another bent rim on the way into  the city.  Used rim.  I bent out the kink myself.

97 139K found mud guards in junkyard.  never knew they existed.  Installed them and have been on ever since.

97 142K added hitch and brought my rowboat back from Michigan (start of the downfall of my transmission).  spend most summer weekends on Great South Bay off Robert Moses.  

97 148K $400 maco paint job.  I wet sanded entire car,  braised and repaired wheel wells.  replaced sunroof (rusted), gas door (bent from PO), door rubber window strip (NOS) and rusted metal strip between bumper and taillights.  cleaned out sunroof switch that gummed up.  Car broken into NYC.  passenger door lock cylinder spun out.  repaired.

1998 Moved to Dallas  Relo package ferried both crx's to TX  (Rust free  dream, began buying TX CRXs).  Still not planning restorations

10/98 152K new muffler NOS muffler (remove 15K miles later after realizing they were no longer available.  Figured I'd need for a car show someday).  Replace w Bosal aftermarket.

5/99 157K replaced rusted/ sticking ebrake cable w junkie - no tx salt from the local yards.  replaced dr wheel cylinder, rebult pass w oe parts/seals.  dizzy oring.  Charged A/C and found out electrical issue w ac I caused from the radiator repair.  AC back on line.

3/00  162K  found out on inspection that steering rack was cracked from impact (from PO collision).  replaced w junkyard and new oe bellow boots.  New OE ball/tie boots.  Car died on highway. Kept turning the starter.  Melted the ignition wire at the column. Had to get it towed.  Replace ig switch and car would not start up every now and then. But I always got it going. Always thought it was a fuel pump.  later found out it was the main relay causing intermitten start up problems.

7/00 167K  outer cv boots cracking (damn aftermarket!) replaced outer only w oe

12/00 174K oil cooler hoses hard as rock and began seeping. replaced w oe. Calipers sticking, regreased pins

7/02 177K  several oil leaks. pulled motor, replaced all coolant/heater related hoses, all dymamic oil seals replaced - camshaft, main lower, transaxle, ext.. CV hub seals.... everything.  NO gaskets touched.  motor not opened other than valves.  Replaced cylinder head engine mount, began cracking.

2004 begin lawn business and used crx and trailer to pull equip for first year to see if I really wanted to quit corporate and go full time.  Car got some moderate to heavy use.Pulled some 2000 pound loads of rock/soil.  Alternator had been sticking. I opened it up, very hard w salt corrosion, the copper slip ring was almost worn through.  so I just put in a used alt off an 100K car OE.

8/04 192K replaced broken exhaust hanger. 
Car sent to storage - no prepping other than jacking the car up on plastic as usual.

10/08  storage reserrection!  Car eventually fired up on old gas.  It took some turning.  but I could tell when each injector would "unstick" and would come on line.  Until all 4 fired.  replaced leaking fuel rail oring on  end cap.  replaced front pads, filed rotors smooth.  brake cylinders trashed. rebuilt w oe cups, polished inside w 400 grit paper.  cyclops brake line does not work.  Rubber stoppers on break/clutch pedals disintegrated, replaced oe.

2010-12?  had some sporatic starting problems w car.  On trip to michigan, it finally stopped long enough for me to trouble shoot, spark test, fuel test, voila, main relay.  No issues since (kept all parts in car w  tools were ever I went).  Rear wiper stopped working. Peppers helped me and found wire harness broke at lift gate wire pivot, repaired.

2014 228K  Beginning maintenance inspections for overhaul.
Seals hoses, belts, boots all in great shape.  Passenger wheel bearing getting a little play.  Hearing some ticking coming from tranny when I put it in reverse,  need to check dizzy for shaft endplay, never repaced rear wheel bearings,  will be checking all that stuff.  tie/ball joint checked annually for tightness.  Muffler was used after I took off the OE.  its starting to go.

10/2014 flushed radiator and brake fluids

235K, new toyo tires (2)

10/2015  238K  New honda battery

3/2017  replaced drivers seatbelt since it no longer retracted.  drivers interior plastic door pull handle broke, used screw and jammed it into the old door plastic grommet.

 

2016/17.  Rotors kept dragging/making noise slightly.  replaced w NOS from pads/rotors.  rebuilt calipers w NOS seals, regreased slide pins.

2016/17  rear end sag.  removed rear axle, broke shock bolts - replaced axle w rust free CRX#4 axle. KYB shocks.  added 1" spacers to lift back to spec.  Used springs from a 150K Junkie TX CRX (clean/no rust/less mileage and bounce cycles).  replaced rear break lines w NOS old school wagner.

10/25/2018.  Master cylinder leaked into booster.  both original.  took apart cylinder, pitted, not rebuildable.  replaced w NOS japanese aftermarket.  Boost so rusted, couldn't take it part wo bending metal.  grabbed clean booster from CRX#4, rebuilt w Honda NOS rebuilt gasket kit.  inspect rear brakes, pads/seals good.  both outer CV boots beginning to tear.  drivers ball seal grease stain.

11/2019  252,450  Notice steering wheel slop/clunk.  realized toyota late model radiator fluid previously installed is attacking copper/brass in old CRX system.  Removed, flushed til clear water, installed old school green designed for aluminum, copper,brass system.  exhaust manifold gasket leak.  removed manifold replaced gaskets.  broke several stuck  replaced w Honda studs.  replaced original O2 sensor due to occational O2 code on computer at high speeds.  replaced some plug wire plastic brackets w JY stock - heat finally broke them.  replaced NOS water pump/belt w Koyo idler bearing (original bearing as i never replaced it, made enough noise for concern).  timing cover grommet, new plugs, 5 wire set NOS, replaced cooler inlet assembly to head due to bleeder nipple stuck 12 years ago. Dizzy, wiggled shaft = good.  new TEC cap/rotor, NOS valve cover gasket. replaced hardened windshield wiper tubing in engine bay due to heat/age.  Monroe rear hatch shocks, TSK throttle cable.  Steering wheel nut loose, retighten.

12/5/2019   steering rack clunks a little on turning wheel back and forth.  Root cause: inner/outer joints still faily tight, was the rack tensioner allowing rack to pop our of the pinion more during turns.  Sorted steering racks.  Selected best rack, reclocked rack one tooth to offset highway wear spot.  seleced best inner/outer joints from used OEM stock.  rebooted w NOS.  Greased rack w mobile 5% heavy duty moly... see post for more detail.

2/13/2020  254,680  oil change.

9/7/2020 258,206   Oil changed.  Noted outer cv boot tearing.

10/2020  259,000.  CV axles, finally removed original shafts from service due to more slop than I'd like.  Selected a used OEM passenger shaft, rebooted w NOS.  Drivers installed NOS shaft w outer joint, selected tight oem inner from Junkie stock.  reduced rotational slop by 75%.

5/9/2021 265,942: oil change.

10/2021 269,540: Diff bearings clicking more than I like.  replaced w 43K Junkie tranny, new NOK seals installed, shifter seal and boot.  replaced clutch, pressure plate and release bearing w NOS.  removed flywheel and replaced rear main oil seal NOS.  Old shift mechanism worn, replaced w used, hammered pins to tighten tolerance.  flushed tranny 3x w oil, drove 4 days, reinstalled honda MT oil, 

11/3/21 269,671: self alignment check.  replaced rear hub/bearing assy w NTN.  rotated back driver ball joint post to bring camber back to normal.

11/12/21 269,800:  New tires. Nos coil replaced for insurance. installed radiator mesh rock shield, installed fog lights for road trips.  Replaced passenger cracked headlight,  see "headlight" file for details.  installed sylvania silver star.

4/15/22 273,200: rebuilt alt failed.  Rotor winding evaporated.  Rebuilt w MM cracked housing alt, salvaged part, 1 new bearing - arc assumed to create rough spot. reinstalled 252K after rebuild.

5/30/22 274,541:  Oil change.  tire rotation.

9/2022  280,400.  Removed dash to access rusty fuel lines for replacement.  Replaced pump/bracket/outlet hose w used 129K. removed 280k inlet line filter, 20% filled w junk - assume fuel tank sock filter still doing its job.  Oil change, changed coolant. New fuel engine bay filter.  clutch pedal bushings replaced/greased to get rid of squeak.  changed light bulbs speedo & climate control to fix a burnt bulb.  removed alarm.  Removed evap for replacement.  New foam around heater core interfaces.  MadMax hit curb FL tire.  slow sidewall leak, replaced front set, rim spun and straight.

XX/XX/XXXX  284K.  Oil change

1/2023  287000   Pre for Destin Florida trip.  Removing tires for balancing at the shop.  Broke off a lug stud.  Removed Knuckles and replace both from wheel bearings.  Removed a stud from another car and reinstalled.  Bleed brakes.  Changed NOS Honda pads to ACDelco ceramic.  Drivers rear wheel cylinder cup seeping.  rebuilt w new NOS cups.  Passenger OK.  Removed pistons and cleaned bores.  Sanded corrosion off the uppermost pistons on both sides..   Balance tires and rotate

2/2023 287000.   Low speed blower motor not functional  diagnosed blower resister failed.  Replaced w used from another car.

6/2/23 292,452 miles.  Oil change

9/23  295,824:  Oil change, tranny oil change, coolant flush (green).  Seat covers, Left fogger bulb cracked, LED cyclopse bulbs installed.

*****20*  Editing below to add details/pix of each years road trips 2009 to present ******

 

 

 

She's a work horse

 

 

 1994 Rand McNally Atlas.  All the places this car's been (as of 2/2023).  W this atlas.  The leg in California was the drive home when I bought a Straman CRX 2001.  The Beaters never made it to California.

 

Road Trip #1:  2009

 

Dallas to Detroit 2800 miles

Went back up north to where I grew up.   Trip was uneventful drive-wise.  No mechanical issues.....

 

 

Road Trip #2: 2010 

 

Tri-Delta: Dallas-Detroit-DC.  4100 miles

 

Went back north for hunting again.  Took a detour to Maryland to visit Alister of Civic Duty.  He had purchased a 77K CRXsi sitting in persons field for years damaged from an accident.  We tore a big part of the car down for the drivetrain, body panels,..etc...    We met in Kentucky early the next year where I picked up the drivetrain and other parts the CRX couldn't bring back with me at the time.

 

Who needs a pickup truck on northern Michigan back roads....  A CRX does just fine!

 

 

Passing through DC on my way to Alister of Civic Duty

 

 

Alister bought a CRX that was sitting in a field w 77K for years..  I claimed this as CRX#8.  I loaded up what I could take on this trip.  I met up w him later in Kentucky to pick up the motor, tranny, seat and other heavy stuff to put in my truck.

 

If you read this Alister, Thnx so much and for the fenders!!!!

 

Road Trip #3: 2011

 

Dallas to Canada: 3800 miles

 

Was another Hunting trip in Michigan.  A member from Canada sold me a part.  I updated my passport and crossed the boarder this leg around.

 

I was having a difficult time locating additional parts for a concourse project I'll get to someday on CRX#2.  Since I was heading to Canada to pick up a part from a fellow RPR member, I called the Windsor Honda dealer.  Apparently, the Canadian system is a bit different than the US parts system.  Dealers in Canada cant share their inventories due to privacy laws there.  I gave the dealer a list of parts to search.  A month later, I got a list of what Windsor could get.  Paid for the parts and they sat in a box for 9 months until my Fall trip.  When I showed up, the parts counter guys placed bets if I'd ever show up.

 

Well I did.....

 

 

 

Road Trip #4 2012 (2 trips)

 

1st: Dallas to Detroit  3000 miles.  Hunting again.

 

2nd: Dallas to Detroit, return via upper peninsula and Wisconsin.   3800 miles.

Hunting again.  Visited my brother in Wisconsin.  Crossed the Mackinaw bridge and did the northern loop around.

 

 

Road Trip #5:  2013

 

 

Hunting again.

Dallas to Canada:  3500 miles

Road Trip #6: 2014

 

Dallas to Detroit: 2600 miles

 

 

 

Rough ride back home.  Driving through Indiana around midnight.  Temps dropped below 20F.  Salt wasn't working.  Cars passing me, then finding them off the road into the fields.  Pulled over the next exit and crashed for the night until the temps got above 25 for salt to work.  Pix is some aftermath of the next days drive

Road Trip #7: 2015

 

3 trips from Dallas to Detoit: 7500 miles

Road Trip #8: 2016

More hunting in the backwoods.  A bit dirty from the 2-tracks.

Dallas to Detroit: 2500 miles

Road Trip #9: 2017

 

 

Dallas to Denver: 1700 miles

Road Trip #10: 2018

 

Dallas to Denver: 1700 miles

Road Trip #11: 2019

 

Intra Texas travels Austin - Dallas

 

 

 

 

Road Trip #12: 2020

 

Dallas to Denver 1600 miles

Road Trip #13

 

Dallas to Denver  1700 miles

Road Trip #14 2022

 

Dallas to Denver

 

Upcoming river rafting trip in Utah, September

Did a quick Intrastate trip yesterday.  Drove out to the Louisiana boarder for some car parts - hood, rims, exhaust.  Clocked 400 miles.  No problems as usual.   No A/C.  Heat was brutal.  Long day, got home at dusk.

Removed the passenger seat to make room for parts.  Clocked 400 miles.  Gas in Dallas ranged from 4.65-4.85.  I filled up near Louisiana for $4.45.  Did see one station as low as 4.19.  I get 37-38MPG going 75.  Back in the days of 55 mph speed limit, I'd get 40-42.  Not bad for a 35 year old car.

 

My crx ended up as HongNorr wall art. All my autocross crx, and lemons stuff got used up. I still have my 92 civic vx as my college car. This is inspiring. 

 

We had several CRX's & of course wish I kept some. The best was the 91 HF. There were rumors that the HF motors were hand assembled in Japan. I commuted from N VA to S Delaware twice a week. 
52 mpg & 291,000 miles when I sold it. Didn't use or leak oil, was amazing. 

This is really goals to own something you like this long. 

ClownKiller, Thats awesome!  And downing your favorite beverage

 

Shaw,  I agree.  Seems like the Japanese cars/parts built in Japan are far superior.  When my wife put her foot down about the babies in the CRX, I bought a 2003 IS300 (manual).   Drove that when CRX#1 went to storage.   I bought it b/c it reminded me of the CRX and it was assembled in Japan as well.

 

 

Couldn't help myself.  Drove back out far East Texas to that yard again for some more parts.  The car is an 87 hatch SI w 219K.  Clocked 350 miles.  Did a more direct route this time.  Hot day today.  Near 100f w no AC.  I left at 6am.  Did my thing and got home around 3PM.  Gas changed a little: $4.75-$4.49.  East Texas reminds me of middle Michigan.  Nice drive.  Lots of lakes.   My left arm was sunburned from Monday's trip.  I wore a long sleeve safari shirt w kayaking gloves to protect my skin - much better.  Downed a little over a gallon of water.

Had some interesting vehicles parked out from.

 

 

I love yarding.  Been a while.  And about a decade since I've been able to get first picks on a 1g/3g car.  This one had 219K.  It was last registered in 2004.  Body was faded, but rust/accident free.  Not a lot I could use.  This is the second load.  Got the bumper for an RPR member since its a hatch.  Needed new mats and found some stout Huskie's.  I love the old copper radiators. I pick them up when I can find them in original form.  I don't have any w leaks, but want to practice braizing them later on as needed.  Having worked in the plastics industry, plastic had no place in a radiator.

 

The rims good and spins straight.  And I can patch the old OEM exhaust (minus the cat cut out) for Project MadMax.  

 

******* I uploaded some pix and trip details from prior trips. Not going to get into a lot of detail.  Trips were always non eventful mechanical wise.   Its going to take while to patch all those together.  *******

My son's been driving the rex as a daily since June.   Trooper: no AC.  And its been a hot summer here in Dallas.

Soooo.   Time to get the AC figured out and working.

 

System stopped working around 2010-2013 off the original R12 set up.  Hadn't been driving the car in the heat.  I didn't really need it.

 

I had pulled the system out of the car a couple years ago minus the evap while reworking the exhaust manifold bolts.  Tucked it away w the other spares I pulled over the years.  My son and I cleared through the storage rooms best we could and located 5x mostly complete factory systems.

 

Certified and have the HW for the job.  Easy for a DIY'er to charge this system: charge til the bubbles in the sight glass go away w aide of the Honda Helms manual (nice, easy to use stoich charts).

 

 

These are Sanden TR70 scroll type compressors used in Hondas around 1985-1993.  I'm not aware of other manufacturers using them.  A little odd-balled, but aftermarket seal kits still available via Santech.  Slight variations between the 86/87 to the 88-93

 

I popped open my original compressor.  No oil.  Bone dry.  Bearings seized and rusted.  This car i later found out (1998 when i ran a car fax) was a salvage title in 1988.   Lots of weird stuff I had to fix over the years.  When I first checked the charge on this car back pre 2000, I couldn't see through the sight glass.  After opening up the system, I can't believe it ran until 2010ish w all that crap inside.  What I can't flush/clean to my satisfaction, will be replaced (compressor, evap, condensor,drier, ect..)

 

Popped open CRX #4  compressor w 98K i bought and parted out around 2000.  No rust.  Shaft moved w force, so I didn't move it.  Opened it up and the oil dried out where it settle from storage and glued it a little.  The oil looks a bit dark.  I suspect something else was going on here.  This one will be cleaned/resealed and used for Project MadMax.  The goop easily dissolves w solvent.

 

 

I pulled another compressor open out of CRX#9 w 129K i bought and parted 4-8 years ago.  Converted to 134a by PO   This one's much cleaner.  Freely rotated.  This one will be cleaned/resealed and used for this car.  I marked the other parts when I pulled it off #9.  So I'll know to do extra cleaning on the components when flushing to get the settled oil our of there

 

Opened one of the junkyard compressors that rotated really well.  This is what its supposed to look like.  Out of a 86-87 civic I pulled from a clean fully charged system at a junk yard back around 2000.  Glad I did.  Going to oil this one up and save for long term storage.  I have a second Junkie compressor in same condition.  Going to have my son open it up to teach him the process.  This gives me 2 good spares after refurbishing CRX#1 & #3's systems

 

 

This will be a winter long project.  I uploaded the beginnings of a detailed CRX Sanden TR70 AC system rebuild here on RPR.   http://www.redpepperracing.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=59527&hl=

 

I pulled 4 of the clutch bearings from these systems.  Honda wants $165 per bearing (specialty bearing, notice the notches on the inner race).  One bearing was really tight when I compared to an NOS.  2 were pretty decent.  So opened the seals on the 2 decent ones (rust/pit free), cleaning and regreasing for re-entry into service for CRX#1 & #3.  Not like I"ll be putting another 200K on these cars....

 

 

Keeping system R12.  I have enough to recharge 14-16 cars.  I'm good.

 

AC project for later in winter.  Time to get ready for a Denver Road trip (1300miles), Michigan Roadtrip (2800 miles) and a quick dart to Austin (250 miles).

 

Prepping car for the Fall trips.

 

Car turned 280K this month and still purrs like a kitten.

 

5-6 years ago, I was looking into changing the fuel pump.  Removed the plastic cover and found this.....  Wasn't something I felt like getting into at the time.

I figured a time bomb as its the original pump.  Doubt I could replace this while on the road.

 

 

I like to wait and pile up the jobs if possible to save the time take advantage of ease of replacement while I'm there.  I needed to remove the evap for the AC rebuild, a bulb was out on my climate control, clutch pedal bushing wearing out (squeaking), radio/clock flickers - a power supply issue to figure out.  As I got into removing the fuel pump and 3 metal fuel lines, had to remove the heater core (now new rad fluid - old school green), oil change for trip, replaced all the bulbs on the speedo and climate control (PITA to access, after 34yrs, makes sense), fuel filter (last replaced like 180K like 15 years ago), removed the old alarm system 

 

The PITA Maintenance project begins...  Dash removed to access everything.

 

I had 2 sets of fuel lines from parting out CRX #'s 4&9.  When i saw the rust a while back, I was able to pick up a couple more here in TX as we're mostly salt free.  Dug them out

 

 

I went to yank out the old fuel pump and sure enough, the nut wouldn't turn.  While torquing, the rusted line cracked and began to leak fuel.  Glad this time bomb is being addressed.

The nut never turned.  The fuel begin leaking from above.  There's a plastic cover to protect this area.  Car lived in Michigan and NYC w me for several years as my DD.  Apparently the salt really likes it here.  Spent a while removing the old lines and installing the new used lines (flushed ).

 

Whats good about finally getting to these projects, its forcing me to search the nooks and crannies for the stuff I've tossed in the storage rooms.  Have a few NOS and at least 2 used complete sets w HW and brackets from #4&9.  Which was great, the bracket has a vibration mount to isolate the pump.  That rusted where the pump was just laying on the bottom support flopping around w road vibration.

The used pump in the bottom right is from this car.  Bracket shot.  

 

I had a brain fart for another science project.   I wonder how these  pumps sound when compared to each other??  So I came up w a quick set up to pump fuel from one tank, to another.  Did this.... (hard to see.  pump is in a vise next to the battery)

I ran fuel through the 2 used pumps (98K and 129K when removed) to the 280K pump from my car.  My old pump was loud as hell and when i put my finger on the inlet to check suction, I barely got any compared to the rest.   Diffusion of another time bomb!!

 

The 98K pump came out of CRX #4 pulled out in 2000ish.  Sat filled w fuel for 20years.  Initially, it didn't spin during the test.  Had another brain fart and put a little brake parts cleaner in there.  I shook it like a can of soda.  The internal pump element began to rattle in there a little.  Hooked the pump back to my test set up and voila, it spun!.

 

Then I dry tested the NOS pumps to see how they compared to #4&9.  Not much difference in sound and suction.  So I decided to install the used pump from CRX #9.  Had to use the bracket and outlet rubber hose anyway.  Just tossed in the entire assembly.

 

I've mentioned before where I later found out this car was a salvage out of New Jersey in 1988.  I come across weird stuff.  Here's the 35yr old evap.  Will swap it out w the 129K evap since this one has a nasty film on the interior of the hoses/piping.  Notice the white goop they used to fix it.  The dash had never been removed by me.  A few of the mouting holes were cracked as well.  35 years and 280K out of a salvage, I'll take that....

 

 

Since its a little difficult getting the the climate control and speedo, I just replaced all the bulbs

 

Used fuel pump and lines installed.  Took her for a road test a few hours ago.  Good to go. I did have a fuel leak coming from the new filter connection.  Took it apart the the NOS Honda crush washer had a dent in it.  Replaced w one of the old ones.

 

 

Pending radio/clock electrical glitch and evap rebuild

 

**** updated the maintenance records 2014-2022 on post #1.  *******

I really enjoy reading your posts. Thanks for keeping us updated. 

 

 

First trip of 2022 done.   14th Annual.  First 1st trip of 3.   Clocked 1049 miles round trip Dallas to Kansas.   

 

Cheapest gas was north TX at 2.81/gal.  Oklahoma/Kansas ranged $3.30-3.49/gal.  Did a side excursion and visiting....   Still planning on Denver and Michigan. 

 

 

Trip uneventful.  I didn't have any photo optimal locations.  Long/flat highway.    I just pulled off I35 and shot the border sign.

 

Picked off a well worn CRX DX while I was up there.  Probably the first crx I've visited in a yard in 5 years.   Hood, headlight and and incidental metal/plastic fastners.  One of the friendliest junkyards I've been to in a while.  Couple of the guys love old Hondas.  Apparently, they have an early 80's accord back there somewhere.

 

 

 

No noticeable difference w the new fuel pump.  Nice to have the climate control light bulb back on.  And the clutch pedal squeak is gone.  Did get some intermittent minor road vibration on the steering wheel.  Would come and go on the turns.  going to rebalance the tires.  Did notice  a little inner wear on a front tire.  The steering wheel is off like 1-2 degrees since MadMax nailed the curb a couple weeks ago (going to self align the front in the garage as well).  New tires and I spun tested the rims - doen't make sense.  I'll figure it out before Michigan.  

 

The clutch and brake pedal rubber pads were finally starting to wear through.  Replaced those w a used set.

 

I had been having flickering radio/clock issue past year.  I had installed an alarm system on the car back in 1994.  And a fuzz buster around the same time.  I had pinched a couple small gauge wires in the fuse box radio/clock and the cigarette lighter knife fuses for power.  Had removed the wires about a year ago when this all began to happen.  I cut a fuse in half, placed it in each side of the receiving terminals on the fuse box.  Apparently, i over stretched the female receiving connector to the fuse inside the fuse box.  When I removed the alarm/fuzz buster wires, the fuse connection was loose.  Fixed that.  Then found my clock kept resetting to "12:00" randomly every 1-10 minutes.  Replaced the clock out of the 129K #9 dash and that problem went away.  Nice to have the radio and clock back in service.  Worked great on the trip.

 

I was concerned the flickering might have been wire harness/connector issues due to age and road vibration.  So far so good.  The electrical troubleshooting got me to solder up a few sets of wires/aligator clips and some wires w auxillary fuses.  I'll toss this stuff in the car for road side trouble shooting just in case.  Honda made a supplemental electrical manual.  Will pack that as part of future road trips.  I'll chalk up the electrical flickering to my early 20 somethings ignorance on how to power accessories.

 

Car is 100% operational minus the A/C.  281,680 miles.  

 

Booked the motel for 8 nights in Michigan.  Looking forward to this trip.  This is the trip I get to retrace the trails of my youth in the same car I did it in 30 years ago.  This one will be the best of all -  hunting birds w my son MadMax.  Get to teach him how to drive soft sand and navigation through water bowls on 2 tracks....  I expect to be adding a few more brush scratches down the side of the doors.

 

 

 

 

 

14th ANNUAL ROAD TRIP 2nd OF 3 COMPLETE.

 

Just got back from the Michigan trip.  Great weather.  Great driving.  Clocked 2845 miles over 9 days.  Lowest gas was here in TX $3.11.  Highest in Michigan $4.51.  Checked the mileage.  Was getting 35-36 while mostly driving 75, fully loaded.

 

Car ran great as usual.  Hard on the right foot w/o cruise.  18hrs each way.  Drove through the night as usual.  Slept a few hours in the front seats as needed around 2-4AM.   Did have a failure....  The right side light bulb low beam filament when out.   Quick trip to Wally and back on line.  Had some steering wheel vibration on the Kansas trip.  Went to my tire guy and he rebalanced before this trip.  Ran very smooth.

 

Probably passed 50 deer carcasses on the sides of highways.  Most I recall seeing.  No near collisions for us.  Did have them dart across on 3 occasions mostly driving Michigan.

 

 

Another favorite spot I hunt w an isolated lake.

 

 

Snow plowed sand on this set of two-tracks.  A reason street cars dont run the trails very well.

 

I have a water leak at the antenna and windshield.  Car never stays out in the rain.  had a few rain showers.  Just covered her up at the motel over night.

 

 

Typical spot.  Pop the trunk, load up and go.

 

4 birds at this spot.  Waiting for Mad Max to make it out of the woods.