1988 Isuzu I-Mark Turbo

In reply to f6sk:

Definitely turbo. The idea would just be to shape the piston surface to match.Right now there's 4 valve reliefs so they didnt have to use siamesed pairs, so it's not ideal at all.

These are my new (used) rods. I ruined the first set. Everything checks out with them. I don't know that it will make much difference, but I'm polishing the sides of the rods. Some say it helps with oil absorption, others say they will cut through the splashed oil easier. I say it looks and feels cool so I'm doing it. I doubt it will have any real effect on a small low horsepower engine like this. I used the same polisher tool that I used on the crankshaft. I weighed the rods when I got done to make sure I didn't make them way off, but they were all pretty close.

Putting the pistons on the rods is an art. Too hot and you ruin the rod. Too cool and the pin will go half way through and stop.I hate putting pistons on the rods. I always worry I'm going to screw it up. So, I let the other guy that works here do it. (hes been doing it for 30 years). And I'm glad I did. One of them did go through half way and stop. It seems the pistons were a bit tight from the factory. It was good because he showed me how to fix that.

In reply to f6sk:

How do you fix that? I've ruined a few pistons by the pin getting stuck then galling when I tried to fix it.

He put in the piston press and pushed it back out. He explained that I needed to test fit the piston pins in the piston BEFORE I try to put them on. (I didn't do that). He then used the rod hone to hone just a little off the piston so it would work, heated it back up and put it back on. Pressing off once its stuck is tricky. You usually have to do it immediately while it is still hot, and even then there are no guarantees it won't explode when you press it. Ideally you have a fixture where you can press on the rod from inside the piston rather than on the piston itself.

The block is ready for freeze plugs and paint! I There has got to be a better way to paint an engine. The engine paint you buy at the auto parts store seems too flaky - like I can let it dry and scratch it off with a fingernail flaky. I tried using a final coat of clear this time to see if that would help.

After the paint dried I put a little bit of silicone around the freeze plug holes. Some people also use Indian head shellac, but I don't. It doesn't dry fast enough. I find it makes a runny mess.

No special tools required. I just used a deep well socket close to the size of the plug.

I eased the corners on the oil filter housing. The flow seemed to dead end there. All done!

I've always been told you polish the parting lines from the beams to eliminate potential stress risers.

The pressing and fitting is exactly why I buy floating pin pistons and rods. :) I should note though, that spiro-locks bring their own special brand of hell with them!

There is better engine paint. Por15. That E36 M3 won't even come off after hot tanking and sand blasting.

Engine build! Sorted the piston rings that look like condom rappers. Put the rings on bottom side first Stagger the gap. You don't want the gaps to line up. Or the gap over the skirt I was told that this dosen't really matter. To test this they built an engine and marked where the rings and gaps were and ran it. Then they tore the motor down and none of the rings were in the same place. They say they float around while it runs. I still stagger mine though.....

can't hurt. I've heard / read the same about the rings moving but I wonder if that stays true when they get enough run time for carbon to build up behind them?

A lot of the two stroke junk I played with had pins to keep the rings captured in place.

I powdercoated the engine block of my 4AGE MR2 in 2005. Still looks good.

Awesome project. Everyone needs a machine shop in the family.

Gorgeous! Man this is awesome!

It begins:

Block attached to engine stand ready for assembly First thing? Clean I blew off and wiped down everything. I used carburetor cleaner and a rag. Alright alright we get our shop towels as shredded good will donations. This was the last thing in the bag. Insert your double entendre right here.... Got my stuff organized and ready Main bearings first. (Unless you are building a "V" style engine then it would be cam first.) You can't screw up the main bearings they only go one way. Lots of lube. Some people like a liquid assembly lube. I like the paste style. I feel like if the job is going to sit for a while then the paste won't run off. Don't forget the thrust washer. PRO TIP: Don't roll the crank over to test the fit until you have the main caps on or it may spit out your thrust washer. Torque those puppies down starting in the middle and work your way out. I like to paint the head of the bolts so I'm sure which ones I have/have not torqued. (really useful when you have to stop in the middle and answer the phone)

The dot on the piston goes toward the front of the motor. Oil everything. The rings the piston.
The cylinders. Oil everything. Lube on the rods. Note the boots on the rod bolts to protect the crank. A piece of hose will work too. Ring compressor to squeeze the rings so it will go in. We have a special too to "bop" the pistons in, but a wooden hammer handle will work too. It is freaking awesome to roll and engine over and hear the "whoosh" as the pistons go up and down.

Covered up till next time

Man I'm so excited to hear this thing running! Definitely the best build thread on here...

I dunno about it being the best build thread on here.... There are definitely guys doing more radical stuff who have more talent. Mine just happens to be well documented.

True, it's definitely one of the best, though.

The Isuzu, Geo, and Lotus Elan guys got together and had MLS head gaskets made. We couldn't find anybody in the U.S. to do it. (Every body kept referring us to cometic) but a company in Australia was willing. Here is my plug for them. Coated with copper coat. Strainer bolted on

IMPORTANT. Pack the pump. Rotate the pump while you force grease inside. Must be primed to create suction.

Rear main seal. A little grease on all seals.

I didn't use the included gasket. I used silicone instead. Installed. Head studs installed. Do not over tighten your studs and use the supplied ARP lube. MLS gasket

im surprised you didn't clean out and paint the oil pan. or is that just how the pictures make it look?

I cleaned out the inside of the pan and it took some paint with it. I didn't paint the exterior of the pan until I attached it to the block.

Great job in showing a good build thread. This gives alot of good insight of behind-the-scenes machine shop work needed in prepping/machining an engine for a fresh rebuild. looking forward to the finished product.

Put the heads on with ARP lube on the nuts Water pump intake and rockers testing the valve cover..because I was so ready to be done I wanted to see it on there.....

Note: The crank key WILL fall out and then you'll have to spend days trying to find it and eventually have one of your buddies mail you one. (Thanks Aamir)

f6sk wrote: I didn't use the included gasket. I used silicone instead.

Aren't you supposed to put the bead on the inside of the bolt holes, or have I been doing it wrong for years?

Very nice build! I love looking at these sorts of machining processes. I wish I could have done some of this stuff when I had my Alfa off the road, but time and money were issues.

f6sk wrote: The Isuzu, Geo, and Lotus Elan guys got together and had MLS head gaskets made. We couldn't find anybody in the U.S. to do it. (Every body kept referring us to cometic) but a company in Australia was willing. Here is my plug for them.

I'm kind of surprised to hear Cometic wouldn't make up gaskets for you. IIRC, when I was researching the Peugeot 505 Turbo (a similarly rare 80's car with almost no OEM or aftermarket support left), Cometic was the only company making engine gaskets for it at all. The Pug guys told me they also had a hard time finding anyone willing to make pistons for their cars, though Arias eventually stepped up to the plate. If you want to upgrade the Isuzu's pistons they may be worth a look.

Aren't you supposed to put the bead on the inside of the bolt holes, or have I been doing it wrong for years?

I dunno. There was a raised area around the pan so I traced that. The bead was thick enough that a bit oozed out the bolt holes.

The Pug guys told me they also had a hard time finding anyone willing to make pistons for their cars, though Arias eventually stepped up to the plate. If you want to upgrade the Isuzu's pistons they may be worth a look.

I think Arias does make the forged pistons for the isuzus. And I would really love to have some, but $600 was not in the budget.