I’d guess 400 to the wheels easily.
I’d guess 400 to the wheels easily.
It's been raining almost everyday this week so I haven't made much progress. I did get the distributor in and manifolds loosely bolted on but thats about it.
Decided to switch to a project I could work on inside. In order to install a 58mm throttle body the intake openings needed to be enlarged. I traced a new gasket then used a carbide cutter and sanding drum to open them up.
Small setback, turns out the throttle body I bought off Facebook was a 52mm and for a 85-88 tpi instead of a 58mm for 89-92. It's been sitting on a shelf for months and I never thought to confirm that it was correct. Oh well, dumb mistake on my part. Ended up selling it on ebay and buying the correct 58mm one. That should arrive sometime this week.
While waiting on that I cleaned all the metal shaving out of the intake then touched up the silver paint. I was going to leave it all one color but it looked kind of boring. I used a Q-tip to paint the letters then wiped off any mistakes with some prep all. Still need to touch up a few spots but this looks much better.
Next project was heat wrapping some of the exhaust. Found an Amazon deal on DEI titanium wrap and did the crossover pipe and some of the downpipe. I'm going to try and wrap the rest of the downpipe once it's in the truck so I can cover the clamps since they leave a large area exposed.
The rest of the assembly has been going slowly. I forgot the dipstick tube and had to pull the passenger manifold back off. Then I noticed the new heads don't have a spot for the tube to bolt to so it just floats for now. I got almost everything back together and somehow misplaced the turbo flange gasket. Blah, had to order another one. Still mocked up the turbo and downpipe in the engine bay so this is where I'm at right now.
Finally reached the point where I could fire it up.
Just waiting on silicone adapters so I can install the charge pipe and figure out an air filter. Another annoying thing is that I bought a new big battery for $100 last year and now it doesn't fit with the new turbo.
Fantastic job. Love to see this thing one back to life. Nice touch on the black paint in the lettering.
These are so cool, I'd love to have one! Congrats on the startup!
It's been a while since the last update. I figured out the the charge pipe, air filter, and built a bracket to relocate the battery. I've also put about 600 miles on the new setup. 
I haven't done too many wot pulls since the tach stopped working but from what I've data logged it pulls hard from 3000-6000 RPM. Only problem now is that I'm getting a little blue smoke at idle once its warmed up. For now my plan is to ignore it.
The other annoying problem is that one of the AC lines was rubbing against the wastegate and wore a hole in the line. I'll have to make a junk yard trip soon to find another. I'm just bummed since it was nice having working AC in a project vehicle for a change.
PseudoSport (Forum Supporter) said:Only problem now is that I'm getting some blue smoke at idle once its warmed up. For now my plan is to ignore it.
Have you double checked oil pressure to the turbo? I know I needed a restrictor on a journal bearing Precision after over pressurizing the seals on one with too much oil pressure. Gradually got worse and went away after a rebuild and a $.50 restrictor
That thing sounds properly rowdy. How will you be tuning it?
Oil pressure was 65 psi with a mechanical gauge when priming the engine. The gauge on the dash reads 80 psi cold idle and higher RPM and about 30 warmer idle. I'm running a -3AN feed line and -10AN drain. It's a journal bearing turbo but might try a restrictor just to see if it makes a difference.
Thanks, it sounds much more mellow with full exhaust. For tuning I'm using a turbotweak chip. It's a custom chip for my setup plus I can make a couple adjustments. At WOT it's great but drivability kinda sucks. With light tip it goes lean and I get a quick pop or misfire. Also it hates to warm restart unless I hold the the throttle 3/4 of the way down. Tuner said he cant do anything to adjust either of those issues so I might go Megasquirt 3 since I have one kicking around.
^ Just ask Precision what restriction they recommend if any. They were very helpful when I was running my 50 trim back in the day
Swapped back in the stock throttle body and the tip-in and drivability are much better. The bad news is I had a close call in the Typhoon a few months ago. I was out for a drive when a car backed out of a driveway without looking. I was in the middle of a line of 3 cars that were pretty spaced out. The car in front of me had to stop abruptly as to not hit the car backing out. I also had to come to a quick stop but nothing crazy since I was a few car lengths behind them. As I was almost at a complete stop I checked my mirror to see what the person behind me was doing and noticed they were not slowing down at all. I quickly turned my wheel to the right and pulled forward some to try and angle the Typhoon so that I wouldn’t take a full impact if they hit me. Also, I didn’t want to be pushed into the car in front of plus it would also give the driver behind me some run of space. Well, they ended up swerving at the last second and only grazed my rear corner but they overcorrected and went through a fence and into a tree. I quickly pulled over to check on them and call 911. The driver was OK and said they were using the GPS on their phone and were not paying attention.
Fortunately, the damage was minor and without the quick turn, it could have been a lot worse. The corner cladding shattered and was pushed into the wheel arch piece which only broke one tab. Taillight has a small crack and the quarter only has a scuff mark. Now the cladding is hard to find and expensive so I’ll probably end up sending it out to SportMachines to have it repaired. I did call my insurance company and filed a claim since I wasn’t at fault and they sent out an appraiser to check out the damage. The other person’s insurance also sent out an adjust but both came back with estimates for a regular GMC Jimmy with about $250. Now my company said that a Typhoon was not in their system and they will pay whatever a body shop comes back with. The problem now was to find a shop that wants to work on it. I went to 3 different ones and they didn’t want to touch it since the paint won’t match the old faded single stage and they could not find the parts. Finally found one shop who would work with me. I got an estimate from SportMachines to repair the cladding and an estimate to fix the rest of the damage. After talking with the shop some more, we discussed painting the rest of the Typhoon since they would already be working on it. If I removed the rest of the cladding, replaced the fenders, and took care of any major rust I could save a bunch of money. So right now my plan is to start prepping the rest of the vehicle and hopefully drop it off mid-Nov to be fully painted.
In reply to PseudoSport (Forum Supporter) :
That's super disappointing about getting hit, but so exciting for paint.
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