1996 Audi B5 Race Car with GM 3.1 Turbo v6.

Hey guys this is my first post here so this is my current build. I'm probably the only person in the world that would swap an Audi with a 60 degree v6.

Story is I bought this 96 Audi A4 from a guy with the cage 90 percent complete and no drivetrain in October 2017 to compete in local SCCA hill climb races. I went back and forth between a 350 swap or 5.3 swap I had both on hand. Then this winter a friend gave me a 91 RS Camaro with a full 3.1 drivetrain. The RS is being built for my wife so I decided to use the 5.3 for that. The 350 was very incomplete and needed a full rebuild so that went out the window too. Maybe in the future. So this is what left me with the V6.

I was left with a full 3.1 V6 and 700R4 trans so I put it in this Audi and I'm actually satisfied with the decision because the compact v6 sits a lot further back in the engine bay and left me a lot of room for piping due to the 60 degree V. I mocked up the 350 and the first 4 cylinders were past the front shock towers.

Thanks for looking. I hope to complete it by late winter and ready in time for the 2019 season.

Well this should be interesting! I love the B5 body style. Going RWD then I assume?

Hahaha this is so rad!

ECU? Rear diff/suspension?

More details please!

damen

In reply to java230 :

Yes rear wheel drive only. Unfortunately the diff in the awd system spins backwards. I have a friend that did a 350 swap in one of these and he found out the hard way. He flipped the diff upside down and it worked but blew out shortly after. Then he replaced it with a bmw 3 series diff. So my options a flip it and maybe weld it up or a bmw diff. I haven't got there yet.  I will also need a custom drive shaft.

I almost kept my B5, traded it in.... Was looking at a VR6 Turbo setup. Wanted to keep the AWD.

In reply to badwaytolive :

Rear diff needs to be spun or swapped for a BMW one see above ^.

The ECU is stock for now so I'm running the MSD boost timing master to pull timing with boost.

Fuel management is a little rigged up but the hill climbs are pretty much point and shoot so we'll see how it works. It will be a Teed off fuel line into a fuel solenoid then into a nitrous fuel nozzle when I can change the jet according to AFR's. The solenoid will be activated by an adjustable Hobbs switch. Will also have a second pump come on with the switch. I haven't decided if I want to dead head the fuel enrichment circuit with its own FPR or just feed it back into the stock return.

I'd really like to experiment down the road with injecting air into the exhaust manifold pre turbo for anti lag but I'll have to build a better manifold. This one is just old piping I had laying around.

Suspension is all eibach. It was on the car when I bought it.

In reply to java230 :

I've never been into Euro cars but I have always loved the way a B5 S4 looks.

I forgot to menton I'm trying to 3D print as many useful parts for this car as I can with my new printer and use it as sort of a test bed for functional printed parts. I printed the ECU mounts, MDS mount and velocity stack so far.

Here's the ecu mounts.

As one 60 degree swapper to another, welcome. 

Take a look at thirdgen.org. lots of guys are drawing through the maf for boost builds from what i remember and not having too much trouble.  However, i may not be remembering right.

And you got the easy button with the rwd motor.  Im doing a 3400 in a miata.

Great project. I noticed the 3d printed MSD holder and thought it was cool and something you'd ordered. ;-)

Any idea what kind of power level you're looking for?

In reply to Dusterbd13 :

Hey yea I saw that with the MAF on the older engines but mine is from a 91 and uses a MAP sensor on the fire wall. Would you happen to know why will happen when the stock MAF senses boost? Fuel cut or anything? That’s awesome about your Miata. It’s good I won’t be the only one pissing people off in the community. Is the build on here? 

In reply to dculberson :

Yes since the engine is entirely stock with 160k I’m only running 8-10 lbs through it this season. I’d be happy to see 210-220 rwhp. The plan is to figure out all the bugs while running low boost then over next winter pull it apart to do some major porting, springs, valve job and a custom ground cam for boost. Maybe a custom manifold with jets in each port. Then I’ll crank it up. I think 350 - 400 rwhp would be attainable.  

Awesome, can't wait to see more. 

The map cars go stupid under boost if i remember correctly. Maf cars can compensate for abou 6-8lbs per what i remember. 

As far as your plans of a rebuild/porting, i think at that point your time amd money is better spent going with a 3.4/3500 hybrid (shortblock 3.4 camaro, heads and intake non vvt 3500) and tuned with megasquirt. 

My build is on here under This link obviously didn't make $2018 this yer....

In reply to Dusterbd13 :

Yes that what I was afraid of. I'll have to do some testing to see what happens. Maybe I'll go with a rigged check ball set up.

As far as the later model aluminum head swap I've read into it and it would definitely be worth it from a performance perspective although I do love to waste my time porting iron heads lol. I bought steel carbide porting tools for a set of 350 heads and I really enjoyed it. Also my goal is to keep everything on the cheap. Mostly everything I've fabricated out of scrap so far. If I was to go through the trouble of the head and intake swap I'd probably just use a different power plant.

Your build is pretty awesome from the few pages I had time to read. I'll have to dive into it more when I have time. I would really like to hear yours on the track.

Seconding the aluminum head swap. An off-the-shelf set of gen 3 heads will outflow even wildly ported iron heads. The gen 3 intake is also leagues ahead of the gen 1. Junkyards are full of 3100/3400 cars thrown away because of the intake gasket failing, so you should be able to get an intake and set of heads easily and for cheap (~$100-125). You would also get a much better return on your boost because of the better flow, even on a stock 3.1 cam. Your 8-10 lbs would easily put you over 200 whp, and definitely more.

GM has a 2 bar MAP. Part number 16040609. That will get you to 14 lbs.

In reply to Left Ventricle :

Thanks. Do you know if there is any aluminum head combo that will work with a distributor? Or do I have to get a 3.4 block?

Also thanks for the MAP sensor PN. I'll order one tonight.

The extra displacement of a 3.4L block couldn't hurt. The RWD 3.4 is still a gen 1 design. As for the distributor, I don't know. Most people doing 60v6 RWD swaps use the electronic ignition, since the computer running it usually requires it. That said, all 60v6 engines are "equipped" for a distributor, even if they have DIS. There's still a hole in the block for the distributor, though I don't think the cam has the gear on it to turn one.

I am far from an expert. You should consult the 60degreev6.com forum.

Dan Rutan (I think) ran a Busch North GM V6 in his Audi awd driveline in a second generation scirocco in the NEHA hillclimbs. Was at Mt. Washington at least once I think. 

https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&source=web&rct=j&url=https://www.youtube.com/watch%3Fv%3DiHWHQU3gP8c&ved=2ahUKEwiRrJSFyLneAhWL7VMKHWT2Dd84ChCOODAAegQICBAB&usg=AOvVaw3MPe_Z6BbsShESiWfbU4d_

Crazy swap and 3D printed car parts...

I love it! I'll be following along.

What filament and printer are you using?

That is one hell of a cage!

Okay, here is my 2 cents (I swapped a 3400 fwd engine into an rx7)....

Go for a 3500 engine.  They are like 200 at almost any pick and pull.  They are vastly superior to the 3100.  You can reach your immediate power goals without boost.

Run the stock ecu and efi.  Get it tuned on hp tuners with a 3 bar map sensor.  Boom done.  Then add turbo.  Get returned.  350 to 450 hp should be fine on these.  The bottom end ofthe 3500 is beefy.  Cross bolted mains, etc.  There are cams available too.

The BMW rear end is awesome.  For more gear ratio choices, you could go Ford 8.8 as well.  They are cheap and require the same amount of fab.

Good luck!

In reply to vwcorvette :

WOW! That thing is quick! It actually sounds pretty good too!

In reply to Ovid_and_Flem :

Yes it is. That's pretty much to only reason I bought it. Very Very well built too. It would of taken me years to do anything close to that.

In reply to wvumtnbkr :

I will have to look into the 3500 in the future. Sounds like a stout motor.

Do you know if Audi axle flanges will bolt up to an 8.8?  Im 90 percent sure they will with the BMW rear.