Starting to mock-up the center console. I'll have a total of 5 gauges with 3 supported with warning lights. It'll also include the remote brake bias adjuster, window switches, toggles for gauges, accessories, aux fan, hazard lights, and an electric defogger fan. Gauges will include:
- Oil Pressure
- Oil Temp
- Water Temp
- Fuel Pressure
- Volt Meter
The 1st 3 gauges will have warning lamps, each separate but with a single one combined into the steering column next to my shift light. I know I won't use all 5 on the track, but during testing, start-up, etc, having them to monitor and make sure everything is okay will be good. I am also installing a new horn and high-beam trigger off the steering wheel using paddle shifting mechanisms for easy access. I'll post those when I get a chance to begin the install.
This image is a basic template of the initial layout. The bottom section includes all of the toggles, kill switch, brake bias, and 2 of the gauges, the center vent is where the main 3 gauges will go. I'll need to figure out how to get the center console to face more towards me vs the passenger seat. Not sure why they designed the dash to face the wrong way - must have been designed in England. You can see I've installed the solid shifter, and those metalic hoses are to route my electric fan into the defogger ducts in the dash.
This was my old 3-gauge panel that I'll be replacing using a different material that's not flammable - this was plexiglass with a vinyl carbon fiber applied. My new design will be using FR4 grade material that's fire resistant and stiffer/easier to work with - this one is for sale if anyone is interested - it includes the gauges since I'll be switching to white faced gauges.
I also started to modify the airbox in the car to accept a 3.5" MAF and open up the airbox inlet to 4" to avoid any restrictions. The original airbox is setup to accept a 3" hose, whereas going to the 3.5" MAF requires some changes and this seemed like the best option to avoid having to find a euro e36 airbox and ship it from across the sea. I'll cut out some of the stock box to allow me to slide a 4" abs pipe into the box and then adhere it to a 4" adapter plate - then I can simply use a 3.5" to 4" adapter hose to connect to the MAF and retain the stock airbox - its a pretty effective CAI compared to aftermarket options, and the filter options are pretty good and avoid oil on the MAF sensor.
This is a stock airbox connector:
This is the 4" intake adapater that needs to be mounted to the box.
After cutting off the stock connection joint - I'm left with a flat spot to mount the 4" plate adapter. However, I'll need to run a 4" ABS plastic pipe into the box - coming in the next episode once its delivered - a $20 part that is going to be cut into the box in the same angle as the stock inlet hose you can see. I found after some work on the box the stock pipe extends inside the box about 4", so I'll do the same with a 4" pipe to retain the stock flow. I'll adhere it all together using epoxy, and then recoat it all in relfective heat barrier.