1998 Dodge Neon Modified class rallycrosser

EvanB wrote:

Jerry wrote: "...so big power isn't as important..." I'm listening...

I lost interest.

Power corrupts

Back from 100 Acre Wood, and finally made it back into the garage yesterday. Still fighting the transmission a bit. I've been trying to assemble the two case halves, in preparation for measuring the endplay, so I can shim the differential properly. However, its been a total bear to get the things together, which doesn't surprise me too much, since it took a lot of effort to get them apart.

After a lot of fiddling with stuff, and figuring out how to make the shift rods line up properly, the only culprits left looked like the input bearing, or one of the dowel pins. I measured the dowel pin, and the hole it was in, and lo and behold, the pin is about 5/1000" larger than the dowel hole. Got the round file out and did a little work, and now the case halves go back together. Its still pretty snug, but I no longer feel like I'm going to break something.

We had previously pressed on new bearings to the differential, and new races onto the trans case, so I oiled the bearings, dropped the diff in place, and and bolted the trans together. I have a dial indicator for measuring end play, but do not have the special tool for moving the differential inside the case. Since the axle hole through the diff appears to be about 7/8", I am thinking of gluing a (cheap) large (1" or so) socket onto an extension, and feeding it through the bottom (bellhousing) side of the diff, then, since the socket is too big to go through, lifting the diff with this, and taking several measurements and averaging them in order to find what size shim to install. Which of course means pressing out the bearing race I just installed. Since I need some other internal parts before final assembly, I may order a couple spare races, in case I screw this up.

Ahhhhh so that's what was going on. I saw a late 90s Legacy being hauled back with Michigan plates going north on 69 between Indy and Ft Wayne Saturday night.

Had "Helligan" stickers on it or something.

This one?

Yeah, I'd assume that it was someone from the IndySCCA rallycross I missed because my car is apart. Hoping to have it together before the next one. Other than being quite a ways away, its a smooth enough course I wouldn't be too worried about breaking anything.

EvanB wrote: This one?

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=g5dMlakag_s

Yep that was the one!

Befriend a dodge dealer with the assembly stand some trans shops have them as well also buy all the shims you can a surprising amount of T350 parts are becoming NS1 I cant seem to find and good alternatives but I have a pretty decent stash (said that about DOHC oil restrictors too and now I have none lol)

In reply to BoneYard_Racing:

In my first parts purchase for stuff, I ended up buying every shim that was under $3. Hopefully one of those (or the original shim) will be the correct size.

Just bought the differential tool from ebay for under $40, and am splitting the cost with a fellow racer, since he may need it in the future, too. And finally, had to give in and order an old school 1/4" torque wrench, since turning torque for a properly set up diff is supposed to be 6-12 in-lbs, and the lowest any of my current wrenches go is 20 in-lbs. With any luck, everything will be here this weekend. If I don't destroy the new bearing race this weekend taking it in and out for adjustments, I'll be able to get the diff set up over the weekend, then order the final parts I need to get the trans permanently reassembled (need a clutch fork pivot, found out mine was broken when I pulled the fork off, and need an output shaft bearing, it broke when we pulled the cases apart).

Oh yeah, think I finally settled on buying a rebuilt ACR/RT steering rack over the Shadow steering rack. 14:1 might be a bit much if I decide to ditch the power steering down the road.

Yeah Ive stopped working on the trans I found a little hole in the wall garage they put in a quaffe for $100 its worth it to me. They arent hard to work on but pleanty of special tools. Good call on the shims. Dont forget to change the axle seals while its appart.

My acr was okay in the dirt with the stock rack I was a hair behind as it was my first time driving on loose dirt. Ive driven a shadow rack without power and it is very hard work.

Not a ton to report. Got the diff tool and torque wrench late last week. Measured end play, and it turns out the shim that had already been in the trans was the right size, which is good, because none of the ones I had were close to that size. Got it back together, and turning torque looked to be around 10 in-lbs, so safely in the 6-12 in-lb range.

Will be ordering parts for the finally assembly soon. Hopefully the trans will be permanently back together next weekend.

Oh yeah, if you are doing this job, see if you can get a hold of the differential tool. Made it real easy to measure end play.

Hope you're done soon, I believe the season will be starting within the next 1.5 months...

Jerry wrote: Hope you're done soon, I believe the season will be starting within the next 1.5 months...

I hope I'm done soon, too. Been accumulating parts for the air-based timing system and want to have room in my garage to assemble it before the season begins. With any luck, it'll be back on the road in early April. I'm hoping to get some time to test before its first competition. If its not ready, I'll have to ask Bill if I can bum a ride.

Also hoping the first event isn't too late in May, if its in the last half of the month, I'll probably miss it.

A little birdie told me that OVR is starting in very late April, contingent on a few things.

Contingent is my word of the day. (Tomorrow's is cogent!)

Transmission is back together! Pictures to follow, once I get them downloaded. I still need to put in axle seals, and figure out how to remove the clutch fork pivot, so I can install its replacement. Its press fit. If anyone's done this before without having to buy yet another "special" Miller tool, please let me know.

ACR/RT steering rack is on order, and while everything is out, I'm thinking now is a good time to add a few welds on some of the seams in the strut towers, just in case.

Starting to see the light at the end of the tunnel, but I'm still going to have to do some shortcutting to get it ready in time/under budget. The exhaust will stay stock for now, and I'll be staying with the stock battery (though relocated), at least for the first part of the season. After welding is done, I can get back to installing stuff onto the engine block, like manifolds, alternator, etc...

A little more progress. A friend came by and fixed the wiring harness for me, soldering is not my strong suit. Putting accessories on the engine. If I'm lucky it'll be hitting events in late April.

wae stopped by to help earlier this week, and we found the bellhousing bolts had gone missing. Took a trip out yesterday to get some more, and today, drafted my wife into helping out in the garage for a few hours. A friend stopped by to use my press (more on that in a bit), and also gave us a hand. Most importantly, it means this:

Added a few scratches to the paint in the engine compartment, I swear this thing fits a little tighter than the original engine. Most importantly, most of the remaining work should be easy for one person to do, so I can work on it in the evenings, before my wife gets home from work. Targeting having it running soon, and probably having its first competition of the season on May 11 at Indy. if it runs right when its all back together.

Okay, so my friend got a little exuberant when pressing some wheel studs onto a hub, and also my press is cheap near ten year old chinese POS. He felt bad for doing this, I mostly was amused:

Once the car is out of the garage, I'll pick up some steel and rebuild it. May also make another plate with a 1/2" socket tip on the end, so its even easier to use sockets when doing some press work.

Not coming to the WOR Dyno day on the 11th with all your new found power?

In reply to cghstang:

Crud, I had forgotten that was the same day. Hmm, we'll have to see where I stand, I guess. I've got two computers I'd like to try in the car, too...

cghstang wrote: Not coming to the WOR Dyno day on the 11th with all your new found power?

That reminds me, I need to switch my region to WOR and sign up for this. And get my car to stop cutting out under full throttle...

Im hoping to come down for the duel in the dirt.

Got a little more done yesterday. Started in on the front motor mount, and its decided to fight me, so will be attacking it again today. Tried out some stuff called QuickSteel on a cracked manifold I got from wae (that was still in better shape than the one I had), so we'll see how that does as a temporary solution for the exhaust. Pulled the insulation and other junk from under the spare hood, but haven't cut any of the bracing yet, going to see if it actually needs to be done.

cghstang, if I get the car going in time to get the big bugs worked out, I may be hitting the dyno day. Indy's rallycross season is on hold. No word on the whys, but I have a few ideas. Also, I've had most of the parts for the air timing system knocking around at my place for a few months now, finally got around to ordering the air switches. When they come in, Bill and I will probably assemble them shortly after. As I'm missing the May 18th event, is there any time in early May that would be good for you for testing? We probably don't need to run a car over them or anything, just connect the timer and try them out.

fidelity101, hope you can make it, thats a fun one. If you can make the Enduro, I'd recommend it, too.

Bummer to hear about Indy. I missed the news on their indiana impreza forum over the weekend. Finding and keeping sites is, in my opinion, the hardest aspect of sustaining RallyCross within the scca.

The dyno day would be perfect for testing out the timer . Or I'm sure we can work out some other time.

cghstang wrote: Bummer to hear about Indy. I missed the news on their indiana impreza forum over the weekend.

...wait, what?