I'm not sure about the routing, but given that it's a workhorse, I'd go for the option that provides the fewest opportunities for failure, e.g the simplest routing with least hose. That's just me, though.
I'm not sure about the routing, but given that it's a workhorse, I'd go for the option that provides the fewest opportunities for failure, e.g the simplest routing with least hose. That's just me, though.
In reply to mcbacon :
Thats the plan! I think I'm gonna go with option A and mimic the OEM setup for this truck but add a catch can between the driver side valve cover and the intake manifold.
quick update, oil pan leak mostly fixed the oil is now leaking out of the CKP. Not sure why in GM's infinite wisdom they thought to put a sensor at the bottom of an oil splash location when all the sensor has to do is read a tooth'd wheel. You would think if they made a new casting for this piece that they would put it up a bit higher so oil doesn't pool and leak out. There is no gasket provided and it has an o-ring but that doesn't seem to hold the oil back, I tried a few different O-rings but it didn't seem to matter. RTV helped but I think I need to be more liberal with it...
Also the catch can worked great! almost too great with a 800 mile round trip I filled the catch can, 1/4" may be too big for the PCV hose, I will run a reducer to 1/8 and try again but that cleared up the oil burning issue for sure.
So......did you ever do a smoky burnout video?
;)
In reply to crankwalk :
those BFG K02 tires aint cheap! if I can find a pair of take offs... sure :)
on highway trips passing from 70-90mph was effortless. I took a new landrover LR3 that was trying to drive like a dick on the freeway so I decided to dick him back by being big and imposing and block him from pass people all willy nilly and dangerously.
Glad to hear the catch can worked. I may try it on my 5.3. It never occured to me that, that might be the cause of the occasional high oil consumption I deal with. If it works, I may try it on my grandmothers Envoy which get's driven 5x the amount my truck does and burns a serious amount of oil.
Mr. Lee said:Glad to hear the catch can worked. I may try it on my 5.3. It never occured to me that, that might be the cause of the occasional high oil consumption I deal with. If it works, I may try it on my grandmothers Envoy which get's driven 5x the amount my truck does and burns a serious amount of oil.
the 1/4" ID is too much I don't think I should fill a catch can that fast, seems a bit excessive and I didn't really have a whole lot of WOT for that miles either.
I'm gonna try a restrictor to 1/8" and see if it fills up as fast.
fidelity101 said:In reply to crankwalk :
those BFG K02 tires aint cheap! if I can find a pair of take offs... sure :)
on highway trips passing from 70-90mph was effortless. I took a new landrover LR3 that was trying to drive like a dick on the freeway so I decided to dick him back by being big and imposing and block him from pass people all willy nilly and dangerously.
Thata boy, merican iron puttin' a bslap on a Deekdrivin'LR3....for some reason this oil vapor conundrum doesn't quite sound right wish I had the answer
759NRNG said:fidelity101 said:In reply to crankwalk :
those BFG K02 tires aint cheap! if I can find a pair of take offs... sure :)
on highway trips passing from 70-90mph was effortless. I took a new landrover LR3 that was trying to drive like a dick on the freeway so I decided to dick him back by being big and imposing and block him from pass people all willy nilly and dangerously.
Thata boy, merican iron puttin' a bslap on a Deekdrivin'LR3....for some reason this oil vapor conundrum doesn't quite sound right wish I had the answer
Its a big engine so its a big air pump so its sucking a lot of air through the catch can with a 1/4 ID, I think a bit of a restrictor would cut down or just deal with emptying it out every few tanks of gas.
They say these big blocks (and especially the 8100) burn oil GM has a spec called out for 1 qt of oil burned every 100 gallons of gasoline (basically 2.5 tanks of gas) and more is expected when towing.
kind of surprising really... no wonder they cann'd this engine for emission reasons...
This seems like a reasonable place to ask, any opinion on changing motor mounts on the GMT900? I have reason to suspect that I need at least one at 195k miles and the book procedure looks unpleasant. If I have to mostly pull the motor I might as well pull it all the way and out in an 8100. 
mazdeuce - Seth said:This seems like a reasonable place to ask, any opinion on changing motor mounts on the GMT900? I have reason to suspect that I need at least one at 195k miles and the book procedure looks unpleasant. If I have to mostly pull the motor I might as well pull it all the way and out in an 8100.
DO IT! but only if you have a friend or local shop who can do a 6 speed re-cal and since your in texas I imagine the truck is rust free and spotless otherwise.
The motor mounts are pretty easy (with the core support gone lol) I would slap a chain from LH to RH cyl head front and rear and put a chain connecting the two chains together and pick it up a bit you can slide them in from the front but with the fender liners out you have room for your arms to work. Its kind of trickey but its not unreasonable. You don't have to pull it out just raise it about 4" you may wanna remove the starter.
No burnouts but I did get to shovel some snow...
sorry for the lack of audio SWMBO filmed from indoors but the truck is quiet and yes the tree/garden was like an 1" away but I did not clip it!
"shoveling snow" The easy way.
I also accept snowy donuts.
In reply to crankwalk :
I just hope we get enough ice because I will take it out on the lake, the long wheelbase will step out for daysssss
LOL that's one thing I did do with my truck while I was in WV with it. Took it to a parking lot first thing in the AM after a fresh snow. Ex cab long bed, LOOOONG drifts ! 
Nice snow nut,
Did some more trans cal tuning and its even more polished, I think the engine could use a good wideband 02 and proper cal, we have it pretty close right now but some fine tune adjustments would be nice.
When the shop fixed my oil pan leak I had them run a leakdown and cyl comp test but I don't think they did it right, they showed 135-145psi across the cylinders with 15-25% leakage. This thing should run like ass imagine but it runs really nice, except until recently...
On the way home from dropping the rx7 off, I sprung a mild leak at a non serviceable joint, apparently this is a common/uncommon failure mode and there is a very active FB group for the 8.1 so I had a guy on there modify me a spare rail and ship it to me,
and now its been a big pain in the ass because USPS believes that 2nd day air means 5 days transit time and the rail and welding quality are both sub par not to mention the hose he provided is too damn long which is embarrassing when you have a spare intake manifold to be able to mock this whole thing up. Now I am working on mending this rail to get me to able to pick up the rx7; then have my original rail modified by someone who can perform this simple task effectively.
Not only have I lost valuable time waiting for the part to arrive and finding support from friends to fix it, I hate breaking promises/commitments and now TRF has an extra car at his shop taking valuable space that he lacks, especially in winter. On the "bright side" ice racing is canceled tomorrow due to the warm snap we had this week so there is no pressure for me to get the car and make it in time for ice racing.
If I go 3 years without ice racing, I will loose my damn mind - I don't think meth is this addictive.
Update. with the fuel leak fixed it should just be fine right? wrong - mileage is down about 20% and here is my latest oil sample...
**note the air filter is new and the oil wasn't totally mobil 1. **
This is the first oil change after leaking/burning about 5 quarts over the past 5000 miles and note the original oil sample was taken straight from the oil filter when I got the junkyard engine, this was taken at the proper time. It is not burning coolant though, that level has stayed the same. It seems to have a slight miss at idle too. had some lean codes/misfires at higher load. still cannot keep the CKP from leaking oil, whole pan is soaked constantly. I hate oil leaks...
but wait there is more...
now the gearbox is making some pebble like sounds or a little rattle after stationary for a minute or two, could be coming from the tq converter and I did check the flexplate/tqcv bolts and they are tight. I know have a trans cooler line leaking (lightly) that I need to replace but tempted to try and do a fluid flush/fill/filter after replacing it this weekend but I hear that GM doesn't recommend preventative maintenance on these due to unexplained failures after fluid changes - not really sure why always thought this was an old wives tale.
Kind of a huge waste of money and now im over under on my loan for a vehicle I should never have bought in the first place... Half tempted to dump it at a dealer and pick up something else.
In addition to this I had to fork out about $2,000 to repair the concrete in my floor because the lift started to have a lean to it on one side and broke the concrete, apparently it wasn't 4" all the way through and it fractured at the 2" section where the post was. Never had this issue with the lightweight rx7 but 6500lbs hanging in the air for a month will cause some stress I guess.
Honestly not sure what the next steps are or when I'm gonna go rallying again. It may be time to sell the 10AE rx7 I just cant afford (time and money) to have 3 projects going on.
sorry to hear about the problems that have been popping up. Hopefully you can get them sorted without too much headache!
I'm "hoping" this may just be the flexplate to crank bolts coming loose... but that is like exploratory surgery. Not fun and time consuming.
2nd best case is that is just a TQCV issue because the noise seems to be bellhousing oriented, not the gearbox itself. if so then maybe I am back on a custom tqcv route which would be expensive but could provide some benefits in the end.
After that it comes down to engine, would I rebuild the existing 8.1 or go back to the 6.0 route since that is what the truck is designed for. I may do my own compression test next week and see for myself. It would be some effort to turn the truck into the 6.0 again - luckily I kept the radiator for the 6.0 (was going to use it for a 13b runstand project) but not unmanageable since most stuff is the same/carryover. Equally don't want to be going down the financial rabbit hole on an idea that is only mostly proven...
If I do decide rebuild the 8.1 (should it need it) I could go to a crank reluctor wheel and eliminate this timing cover leak for the CKP.
What else is making you think headgasket besides that sodium in the UOA? Is this your first UOA with that motor?
Lot's of oil packs can hang around a while before they are completely flushed our and lots of modern oils use Sodium these days. It could very well be residual.
In my 240z, I got a UOA back that had 1000PPM of Lead. Holy hell right? Bearings for sure.....or wait I used up a half a drum of VP racing C16 and then it sat for 18 months before I did the UOA and I just forgot. Good thing I didn't rebuld the bottom end for no reason. Tests after that showed normal numbers.
I wouldn't do anything drastic over 1 UOA. Measure a trend and just drive it for 3 more more UOAs and see what it is showing.
I'm not worried about headgaskets I'm more worried like I drove it too lean under too high of load and broke a ringland or something... My coolant level has stayed constant and I'm not getting any pressure in there like compression pressure leaking into the coolant passage and its a mechanical fan with a huge radiator so I haven't seen any signs of overheating, temp has been good. This is the 2nd oil sample. I think the high sodium was from adding non mobil 1 oil when it was leaking/burning oil.
The high amounts of aluminum worry me because the only thing aluminum in that thing is the intake manifold and the cast aluminum pistons.
That makes sense if you are adding non-M1 oil as top up.
Every big block chevy I have seen, modern or not burns a qt every 800-1000 miles on the higher end. Most that I have dealt with run a 10w40 or 15w50 oil to help combat that. Also with lots of these motors i've been around, they tend to shed lots of PPM of iron for a long time and still last forever. (UOAs on gasser moving trucks) Hopefully it's not a ringland but you'll know soon enough if it is. Good luck.
Yeah I'm okay with its oil burning characteristics, I accepted that a while ago the leaking part just drives me nuts. I'm trying 10w40 on this round
equally though I have been looking at sequoias because excursions are crazy money for the good diesel version and the 7.3s are just too old and dodge doesnt make anything bigger than a durango which lacks in the brakes and reliability department and 4wd vans are just another project...
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