I thought the 1985 GSL RX7s had liek a 4 x 114.5 bolt pattern. Or was that ONLY the GSL SE.....
I thought the 1985 GSL RX7s had liek a 4 x 114.5 bolt pattern. Or was that ONLY the GSL SE.....
In reply to wvumtnbkr:
Only the gsl se had 4x114.3 both had the lsd but the clutches diffrent setup in each the gsl having more grip from what I have read.
I would of loved to had a gsl se for the bolt pattern alone but I found the gsl rear and couldn't pass it up
I plan to have my machinist make up some steel adapters tht are hub centric to the hub and wheels
OK suspension gurus let me bounce something off of you here.
Tercel factory tension rods came from the back and went to the subframe but being I went from front steer knuckles to rear steering knuckles with the 240SX knuckles that won't work anymore I had planned to use a stock 240SX tension rods now but want to make sure I make something that is good and functional
I don't know if you can tell from these pics but it seems to me that the pivot point for the tension rod and the pivot point for the lower control arm need to be on the same plane?
Or could I just use heim joint ends and a rod and move the pivot point up to the frame?
I'd copy however the 240 did it, there is inherent bind in a design like that(pivots not on the same axis), and keeping as designed is probably a good idea. This probably means both pivots on one plane as you suggest, put it at ride height and wherever the rod end falls, that's your position.
Kenny_McCormic wrote: I'd copy however the 240 did it, there is inherent bind in a design like that(pivots not on the same axis), and keeping as designed is probably a good idea. This probably means both pivots on one plane as you suggest, put it at ride height and wherever the rod end falls, that's your position.
That's what I thought but have seen a lot of diffrent stuff on the net, I would like to mod the 240 stuff as little as possible so I can buy parts easily. Plus if I make the stock parts fit I should be able to get aftermarket 240 stuff later on to upgrade
Stuck a Fiat 1600 DOHC and 5 speed into my MG Midge way back in 1978 or so. These are great drive-trains. The car was a little rocket when done.
That said, the engine is getting a bit long in the tooth, why not go for something more current?
In reply to NOHOME: Money would be the main reason, I had the fiat stuff and I got a lot of extra fiat parts too. Plus I learned to drive stick in that fiat so it's got some sentimental attachment. If money was no object I might of went with a sr20 or something with major power potential (I think major power for this car would be in the 300-400hp range) but I really just want something that is fun to drive at sane speeds and hit a few autocrosses with.
Ok got a little done on the car this weekend had to get out there early this morning cause it is just to hot by about 10am. Worked on cutting the rust from a leaking battery out of the front frame rail and battery tray.
I did sandblast it but didn't take a picture
I decided to work on the tension rod mounts and decided t3 had the right design for their kp60 suspension set up
Although I plan to use the factory tercel anti roll bar for now I should be able to use one like this later if I need too. But this gives me a good solid mounting point for the tension rods now.
And it's removable!
Well I got a little bit of time in the shop this afternoon after work so I decided to see if the new used front valance would fit along with how much room I would have for the radiator.
I decided the stock tercel fan needed an upgrade
So I stole one off the Subaru legacy wagon parts car I have (any one need a dohc ej25?)
It fits great with a little grinding and it's a two speed so I can wire it in to run faster or save the second speed for a back up!
I figure the stock tercel radiator should cool this thing being they are close to the same size displacement, if I have problems I may look into an aluminum aftermarket radiator.
Actually, I do need a Subaru engine.
What year legacy? Gimme some details.
I sent you a pm Duster
Ok got a little more shop time tonight to work on the tension rod mounts, this thing is going to stiffen the frame up a bit too.
Of course I ran out of welding wire with about 4" of welding left to do Will have to hit the hardware store in the morning I'm excited to get the front suspension on to see where the steering rack will mount.
I'm glad I'm a packrat it allows me to go shopping for parts in the many bins of junk I have! I'm thinking these motorcycle shocks will work good out back, any of you guys ever used them?
Well I got the tension rod mount welded up and painted
Mounted it to the car but couldn't put the tension rods on cause I couldn't find one bolt :(
It's the stock tapered bolt from the 240 so I dint have a suitable replacement in the shop but it fits and looks good! Plus it should support the front frame rails being I had to cut part of the radiator jsupport out due to damage 
So I decide the shop need a little clean up so maybe I could find it, no luck but at least I can see the floor now! I got to get some more shelves up so I can organize my stuff better.
Going to try a you pull it yard tomorrow while I'm traveling for work so I can start on the steering tomorrow night.
Pm never came.
Any udea what the specs are for those rear shocks? Seems like they'd be rated too low for a rwd application.
Ok so idk where the dm went but the info on the Subaru is this:
1995 legacy wagon 1996+ ej25
The 2.2 that was in it blew, heard the 2.5 dohc would plug and play...it started but you could tell the PCM didn't know exactly what was going on. Went to drive it and the car wouldn't move I had broke the transmission pump because I didn't have the torque converter seated properly so I pulled the motor back out put another transmission in and then when I went to fired up I never could get it to start again since I have robbed a few parts from it but the engine is all there and intact
I would sell just the motor if you want to come help me pull it I have a engine hoist on site
I don't have any specs for the ahold I know they came off a fzr1000.
From why I read they work good but only about two inches of travel I could set them up push rod style with a rocker and get more travle at the cost of making the spring rate effectively lower, I read 2.5" springs fit so it shouldn't be hard to get whatever spring rate I need if those don't work
Where are you located?
And I'll need to double check the engine in the wife's Subaru and make sure were good. Its a 2000 legacy with a 2.5....
In reply to Dusterbd13:
West end nc 27376 About an hour down 24/27 from you if you want to text or call me it might be the best way to reach me 910-603-4174
Lomaxmotorsports wrote: I'm glad I'm a packrat it allows me to go shopping for parts in the many bins of junk I have! I'm thinking these motorcycle shocks will work good out back, any of you guys ever used them?
Georgia Tech used Hyabusa motorcycle shocks on all four corners of their 2014 Challenge car. They're cheap, fully adjustable, and plentiful.
Well I have these so I'm going to use them if they turn out to be a bad idea I will hack them off and graft something else on! I'm hoping to start working on the 4 link tonight
With the tension rod mounts required to be a custom deal anyways what about adding tabs for a heim joint affair to the top of the control arms?.No binding if the tabs are kept inline with the tension rod and lightweight aluminum tube(cheap cheap dirt track stuff) from Jegs and other speed shops combined with heims each end make everything less bulky including the forward mount than oem stuffs going to require.
I don't trust aluminum for suspension parts especially on a street car. I will get some ajustable tension rods when the budget allows but right now the stock 240 ones seem like they will Be ok to get it rolling.
This... is... COOL! 
Those Fiat engines are pretty punchy and as you say have a lot of potential; if you find a 2000 it's a bolt in swap.
About the rear axle and adapters: on my last build (the Jensenator) I used an RX2 rear axle, same 4x110 bolt circle as the RX7 and the RX7 guts fit. Caution: there's early and late GSL axles, early GSL diffs use the same splines as the RX2, later ones are larger. You can still make it work, you just need the early spider gears.
After pricing adapters to 4x100 and picking myself up off the floor, I bought some long studs for a Miata and had a machine shop redrill the rear axles flanges for 4x100. Was actually cheaper than adapters and works like a champ.
You ever see the abuse a 3500lb dirt car takes every Saturday night?
I wouldn't even think twice about using the hexagon shaped aluminum tube I'm taking about.
Cool build!
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