In reply to Flyingwheel :
Probably around 800 miles or so since the head gasket work. No heat issues and the coolant level has been steady ever since- good luck, and if you run into any problems during your repair feel free to ask.
In reply to Flyingwheel :
Probably around 800 miles or so since the head gasket work. No heat issues and the coolant level has been steady ever since- good luck, and if you run into any problems during your repair feel free to ask.
thanks man! I appreciate it
I'll make sure to post my experience here
hi
started on this today, question:
what did you do for timing? did you put the engine in TDC (top dead center) position? did you lock it somehow before removing the cams and chain etc?
thanks!
In reply to Flyingwheel :
I put it at TDC and, I think, put timing marks on everything with a paint pen to be sure that it went back together in the same spot. I don't remember locking anything.
cool thanks
I'll get to that part tomorrow
today I got stuck fiddling with the exhaust , the nuts were rusted
they refused to turn, once they did they didn't just open, they opened the studs with them so i got them out that way, nut still attached to the stud
I'll deal with that stuff after i finish
it was time consuming but everything is clean, nothing scratched, stripped or broken and that's important to me because I dont like getting on some weird tangent trying to resolve some weird issue /sub-project/project within a project lol
oh and if you are curious about the engine locking spot
watch this video, minute 4:36
ok this is where I am now
I'm glad I went straight to doing this, as opposed to trying re-torquing first. Cause that gasket is falling apart, it's in bad shape. really bad for a bike with less that 17K
the question I have now is: I tried to turn the studs like you did, the first one i tried seemed hard/stuck. I didn't try a lot, it is the end of the day and it's dark. Didn't want to keep trying. I'll deal with that fresh in the morning.
how hard was it to break them loose? was it hard? cause in your pictures you used a regular pair of pliers to do it...how difficult was it? and any tips to do it?
cause otherwise I would have to drop the engine bloc, I'm hoping not to do that that
thanks!
In reply to Flyingwheel :
If they're really stuck, do you have a good set of vice grips you can clamp on with? I think I loosened mine with a pair of fairly large channel lock pliers, but I might have used vice grips to get one or two of the studs moving- I do think they were pretty tight.
If they're coated in oil I would suggest cleaning them so they're not slippery where you're trying to grab them.
If you still can't get them to turn, I would use penetrating oil down in the threads (PB blaster or similar) and a heat gun in addition to some very tightly clamped vice grips and try both loosening and tightening in very small increments until they start moving. That's what I had to do on a much older engine that had sat for 40 years.
thanks for the answer!
i have channel lock pliers like yours and i have vice grips too i ll try those tomorrow
how long would you say this stud removing operation took?
is it normal thread like righty tighty/lefty loosy? asking cause in certain applications like motorcycle mirrors they do reversed thread
also would WD40 do? or does it have to be pb blaster? I have wd40
thanks!
¯\_(ツ)_/¯ said:¯\_(ツ)_/¯ said:I'll track down a good gasket and plan to tear into it some weekend.
Head is a tight squeeze when trying not to hurt the new gasket:
Can you please elaborate on how you put the studs back? cause the pics shows you putting head withtout studs. did you put them in afterwards? how did you tighten them? thanks!
Flyingwheel said:thanks for the answer!
i have channel lock pliers like yours and i have vice grips too i ll try those tomorrow
how long would you say this stud removing operation took?
is it normal thread like righty tighty/lefty loosy? asking cause in certain applications like motorcycle mirrors they do reversed thread
also would WD40 do? or does it have to be pb blaster? I have wd40
thanks!
Stud removal probably took 30 minutes or so, just being careful not to scratch anything in the process.
They are normal thread, so turn left to remove.
WD40 will probably work also, although hopefully you won't have to use it- your bike has less miles than mine so with any luck getting a good grip on the studs will let you loosen them.
When I reinstalled the head, I set it on the engine without the studs, then put drop of blue Loctite on the threads and dropped them in through the holes, spun them down by hand until there was resistance, then lifted the head slightly and tightened them a tiny bit with pliers.
¯\_(ツ)_/¯ said:Flyingwheel said:thanks for the answer!
i have channel lock pliers like yours and i have vice grips too i ll try those tomorrow
how long would you say this stud removing operation took?
is it normal thread like righty tighty/lefty loosy? asking cause in certain applications like motorcycle mirrors they do reversed thread
also would WD40 do? or does it have to be pb blaster? I have wd40
thanks!
Stud removal probably took 30 minutes or so, just being careful not to scratch anything in the process.
They are normal thread, so turn left to remove.
WD40 will probably work also, although hopefully you won't have to use it- your bike has less miles than mine so with any luck getting a good grip on the studs will let you loosen them.
When I reinstalled the head, I set it on the engine without the studs, then put drop of blue Loctite on the threads and dropped them in through the holes, spun them down by hand until there was resistance, then lifted the head slightly and tightened them a tiny bit with pliers.
Excellent!
thank you for your response and your help! I appreciate it.
I'll post the results here later in case it helps anyone
quick update
I got the gasket out. I ended up going the other route. dropped the engine, the studs were seriously convinced. didn't want to break or damage something and i don't have loctite which makes it a problem when time comes to put them back. cause of current situation i cant go out to buy loctite and I dont want to wait for severl days if i buy online
the gasket is ridiculous it's falling to pieces and some of it was stuck to the cylinder and head. took sometime to clean while being careful.
I stuffed the sides with paper towels etc but I feel like some debris or small stuff may have fallen inside. Did you do anything to clean the inside? like flushing radiator or oil to get stuff out in case it fell inside?
thanks
I did change the oil an embarrassingly long time afterwards, and I think I may have run some water through the cooling system. Sorry to hear you had to pull the engine, hopefully it went smoothly.
Looks like my Pegaso was jealous I was paying more attention to a different one- the starter relay crapped out last week so I ordered another one. Swapped it today and we're back in business!
Changed the very worn chain and sprockets, went for a ride, and got a flat tire- this time a piece of bone went through it!
It made a pretty sizeable hole so despite being tube type, I'm not sure if the tire is savable- this is the second puncture I've had on the back of this bike, but I guess I do a decent amount of exploring on it so it sort of makes sense.
¯\_(ツ)_/¯ said:In reply to paranoid_android :
Looking excellent!
So. I would be riding the Pegaso this weekend, but a nasty infected leg injury has me out of commission. So I settled for some idle adjusting (super smooth, for a big single cylinder) while keeping the leg elevated:
And installed some cheapy Amazon mirrors:
I tried to track down whatever is keeping the highbeam from working- the bulb is still good but I think the ground prong has snapped off the connector. Not sure what my solution for that will be.
Damn, what did you do??
Also, I like the Condor sticker on the front fender :)
In reply to irish44j (Forum Supporter) :
I mean, that was from last year, but I got hit in the shin by a very dirty mountain bike pedal, which then became infected, and I had a really bad time for about a week and a half with a fever and crazy swelling and that sort of thing.
In other news, I took the rear tire off the bike today and it now has two patches on it- when the new tube gets here I'll put it back together and give this tire one more try.
¯\_(ツ)_/¯ said:In reply to irish44j (Forum Supporter) :
I mean, that was from last year, but I got hit in the shin by a very dirty mountain bike pedal, which then became infected, and I had a really bad time for about a week and a half with a fever and crazy swelling and that sort of thing.
In other news, I took the rear tire off the bike today and it now has two patches on it- when the new tube gets here I'll put it back together and give this tire one more try.
forum-usage fail. For some reason I thought that was a recent post and that you had hurt it *again* (I remember when it happened).
Patched up and reinstalled with a new tube. If this tire has any more issues I think I'm going to have to go with something a little more bulletproof:
Let me sum up how this bike has been behaving lately with a single image:
From weird wiring stuff to strange smells, Pablo has been displaying a large amount of "character" every time I do anything with him. Most recently the front brake has stuck on, looks like the line is the culprit:
With any luck the cheap generic replacement I ordered will fix it, otherwise I'll have to wait on parts from Italy- I'm hoping to get out to the Pine Barrens soon to make recovery from the next inevitable failure even more difficult.
Starting to sound like you need a good ole boring and reliable DRZ. 
In reply to Ian F (Forum Supporter) :
Hey, name your price for the pair of them and we can talk about it.
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