If you ever need to adopt a biologist, shoot me an email. This is beautiful!
If you ever need to adopt a biologist, shoot me an email. This is beautiful!
Received
Grinding my life away
Cut slot out for roll cage to mount to shock tower
grinding and priming
GONE TO JACKSON HOLE, SEE YOU NEXT MONTH
Very entertaining thread, love the progress!
The wrote: grinding and priming
You need to keep the interior that color. That is just awesome!
that is my fourth color try (filler primer), still unsure maybe gray/silver...
This is amazing! When you asked if anyone needed any interior bits did you mean seats my chance?
the only seat I have left is the rear.....I am back from Jackson Hole, the Toyota I rented turned out to be a challenger, not good in off road conditions
back to work on the 46.
this E36 M3 is getting a little scary....I guess worst case I buy a used harness and plug it in at some point, right??? somebody say right!
I'm still surprised at how many cars still have uncoated dash support bars. I seriously don't think I've ever seen a dash removed where the bar wasn't at least partially covered in surface rust 
Christmas is September..........still my only worry is the wiring.
Worst case you pick up another harness and have a wiring guy do it this time.
My suggestion is to confirm that it still runs and everything you want working still works. Then make a change to only one system at a time.
What electrics actually need to work? Clear out the wiring, run stand alone MS and whatever minimal circuits you need?
that's the plan, hoping to use this switch panel, I am just looking for fuel pump, radiator fan, ignition, break lights and what ever the AIM will display the e46 has the best wiring configuration because the cabin is separate form the engine compartment and everything is plugged, it was running and I have not cut anything so just hoping it will plug back up and run....I am far from that point anyway, stay tuned.
Honestly at this point.... i'd wire that bitch from scratch.
oldtin wrote: What electrics actually need to work? Clear out the wiring, run stand alone MS and whatever minimal circuits you need?
It needs the factory ECU or some pretty slick magic (MS3 might do it but not MSII) to make the dual VANOS operate at close tolerances. A reprogrammed factory ECU is the cheapest way to go for a good reliable solution.
"The", look at Randy Muller's Alpha-N tuned ECUs (bimmerworld sells them). I was getting 351 to the wheels on pump gas with stock cams, motorsport airbox, supersprints, 3.5" open exhaust and that tune.
I just bit the bullet and took out the cabin harness....much easier to work in the car now. still unsure of the interior color.
3.5" in & 3.5" out, per the wacker.
jsquared wrote: I'm still surprised at how many cars still have uncoated dash support bars. I seriously don't think I've ever seen a dash removed where the bar wasn't at least partially covered in surface rust
Manufacturers know that maybe 1% of their customers will yank out the dash and see rust on that bar. I wonder how much they save a year by pinching pennies on painting it.
received bits, lots of discussions about reinstalling the harness, standalone or reprogramed ECU's, I am leaning towards reinstalling the harness after the interior is complete and see what happens.....
what a pain in the ass.....you pay 150 buck for some headers then you have to shell out another 90 for the e36 exhaust studs, gaskets and nuts.....these exhaust manifold studs don't just screw out like I had read, each one is a knuckle busting fight, I wonder if the bungs are in the right holes..........I wonder if it even matters with no cats???
Mr_Clutch42 wrote: Manufacturers know that maybe 1% of their customers will yank out the dash and see rust on that bar. I wonder how much they save a year by pinching pennies on painting it.
That, and leaving them finger-slicing sharp on the edges 
It's coming along nicely! Where on earth did you get headers for $150? Back when I was looking at E46 M3s they were closer to $600-$900 most places... that was a few yrs ago, though.
Where on earth did you get headers for $150?
where else ebay, http://www.ebay.com/itm/261548988766?_trksid=p2059210.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT
then I got the bimmerworld install pack, longer studs, real gaskets, new copper bolts etc....
Changing the plugs, antifreeze, oil, ps fluid, brake fluid, trans fluid, diff fluid, fuel, air & oil filters, trying to change the CPV while the headers are off, got the BW header install kit. ($150 bucks for diff fluid)
The wrote: $150 bucks for diff fluid
YIKES! It's 75w-140 gear oil with friction modifiers. Just use good synthetic like Mobil 1. It has modifiers in it already (as long as you don't buy the NS suffix). It's $15 a liter.
For track work - an old trick to get more lockup was to use the NS so the clutches wouldn't slip as easily but you have to rebuild the LSD often. I roasted one in 9 race weekends doing that - do not recommend. 
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