From my experience, vir sells out of garages and rooms quickly!
Edit. I see I also had the email from vir.
Good Morning,
Due to the construction schedule change, we will not be able to offer you lodging for the Champ Car or Track Advantage events in December. Unfortunately, we have to cancel all reservations currently for these two events, arrivals of 12/1 and 12/2. All Lodge rooms, Pit Lane, and garages will have to be cancelled. We suggest contacting Daily Seven for any availability close by. We apologize for any inconvenience and appreciate your patience during these construction changes. Cancellation confirmations will be sent out to each of you as well.
Sincerely,
VIR Lodging Staff
bobzilla said:
In reply to kevinatfms :
I came in here to ask about the header.
I totally forgot to update! Picked up the DNA Racing header for under $90 shipped. Plan is to use a spray on ceramic coating as both Jet Hot and the local Cerakote company is beyond expensive($350+ for the header and mid pipe).
Going to have the flanges changed over to v-band clamps as the 2 bolt versions have leaked on me in the past. Merge that with the exhaust system with a v-band so that it has easy removal/install when needed.
Should last a long time if i do this correctly. Hoping the CEL does not come on with the defouler trick. If i can get Megasquirt figured out ill go down that route.
wvumtnbkr said:
From my experience, vir sells out of garages and rooms quickly!
Edit. I see I also had the email from vir.
Good Morning,
Due to the construction schedule change, we will not be able to offer you lodging for the Champ Car or Track Advantage events in December. Unfortunately, we have to cancel all reservations currently for these two events, arrivals of 12/1 and 12/2. All Lodge rooms, Pit Lane, and garages will have to be cancelled. We suggest contacting Daily Seven for any availability close by. We apologize for any inconvenience and appreciate your patience during these construction changes. Cancellation confirmations will be sent out to each of you as well.
Sincerely,
VIR Lodging Staff
We secured our room(s) and garage in April 2022. They literally cancelled it 2 weeks from the first day of the race. Then you have 30+ teams trying to find lodging in the surrounding area at the last minute.
Just didnt work out for us. Next time we will have an RV as a back up plan.
Signed up for January 7th Trackcross at Summit Point to get some seat time. Excited to see how the car reacts with the coilovers and 225/205 setup.
Before that point, plan is to get a new intake box made out of a trashcan and a new intake filter as the K&N being used was destroyed. The box will also get a cold air feed from the front bumper corner light. Pictures to come when done.
My Rubbermaid blue recycle airbox mod with cold air feed from the corner light in the bumper with a 3" speaker tube.
The Cardboard Aided Design template will be transfered over to a plastic fairing and riveted into the bumper. Hopeful to make some kind of scoop to add onto this to bring it into the airbox.
Finished airbox and cold air feed. Uses the corrogated tubing from the hole up into the box(not installed in this photo)
With some compressed air pointed across the front bumper down the fender you get plenty of flow through the duct into the box.
Not the most appealing but it works.
Trackcross this weekend at Summit Point. Car is ready to go. Once we get back it will be time for some more modifications to make it faster.
I admire that level of hackery
Welp, cancelled the trackcross event due to getting the Rona. So on quarantine right now trying to stay healthy.
B&M short shifter which is brand new in package from the early 2000's. Time capsule short shift kit. B&M did an excellent job on the design and packaging with everything needed to install including the grease for the pivot ball.
Looking good. I'm interested to see how the install goes and how it feels vs stock before pulling the trigger on one for my car.
automotiveflux said:
Looking good. I'm interested to see how the install goes and how it feels vs stock before pulling the trigger on one for my car.
We already had a short throw before. It was one of the super cheap ebay knock off's of the B&M. The shifter felt great when it was new and the throws were right on the money. The biggest issue was the shifter is a press fit ball onto the shift level shaft. The press fit loosened up so much from banging gears due to the absolute garbage steel they used that you would start missing throws because the lever would move out of position from the massive amount of slop.
I have two shift bases. One with the stock shifter in it which will stay as-is in case we have any future issues. The second shift base currently has the china-grade short shift lever which will be replaced with the B&M. The shift shaft has elimimated the C-clip washer to hold the shaft in place and is now cotter pinned to make it easier to disassemble if needed. Should make putting this B&M shift lever in place a 10 min job.
Should have it done tonight and will post up photos.
In reply to kevinatfms :
you won't believe how much that helps. I did those on multiple cars and damn..... It's still not a honda shifer feel but it is so much better.
bobzilla said:
In reply to kevinatfms :
you won't believe how much that helps. I did those on multiple cars and damn..... It's still not a honda shifer feel but it is so much better.
The stock bushings are shockingly squishy. A light push can move the shifter base by a good 1/8" or so before it starts to get firm. Going to also raise the shifter base. Thinking 1/2" to start and see how it feels.
Trying to get someone to machine some bushings but not alot want that type of work right now. So i will remove one tonight, get some measurements and find some washers i can stack up, hog the center hole out and make a bushing setup with the stock center sleeve. Cheap and effective.
Come to find out Fiesta ST base bushings fit the Hyundai 5 speed base. I had my old shifter setup from my Fiesta sitting on a shelf and it was one of those "for the heck of it" scenarios. Plopped right into place.
So ordered up one more set to use them for the Hyundai. Will them top it with the stock bolt. They are shorter by 1/4" so i will have to space them out with washers a bit.
In reply to kevinatfms :
i'M not all that surprised. I mean, it's a plastic shifter base bolted to the floor. Why reinvent the wheel? Although Ford does like to do that too....
Installed B&M shifter on the Fiesta ST base bushings drilled out to fit the hardware. Its rock solid and has zero play in it. Super excited to test it out this afternoon around the neighborhood. So far it feels beyond fantastic if a bit short. I added a 1.5" extension and white ball to see if that helps bring it up in line with the steering wheel better. If it doesnt feel right, ill go back to the OE shift ball or B&M shift ball.
1" extension makes it a little cumbersome. Swapped back to the OE 5 speed knob which has a little heft to it and it feels better. Overall much better than with the rubber bushings.
Next to tackle the electric power steering conversion using a Volvo pump, new OE lines modified with -6an on the one end to connect to the pump. Have all the parts except for the new factory lines. They should be delivered by Wednesday of next week.
And final thing to change over is the rain light. Going from static on/off on a switch to a flashing/static setup as required by AER. It will still meet Champ Car rules but we are looking into racing at Summit Point in June for the 8 hours races and it requires a flashing rain light. Hope to get that wired in this weekend.
Update!
Pickle Boy Motorsports has signed up for the VIR 24 hour race in August 2023. We are excited to attempt a full 24 hour race with the Hyundai.
Some things we are prepping to get done before the race. Electric power steering, more hood vents, better brake ducts, header and driver cooling.
Electric power steering parts are all in at this point. Time to start ripping the old 100k+ mile lines out, pump and resevoir out to install the new OE lines along with welding in the electric pump bracket. From there pull the OE lines back out to get the ends modified for the electric pump and resevoir connection.
The original GT500 hood vent is still there but with champ car eliminating the points value on hood vents i decided to grab some of the West Marine $8 vents to add onto the hood to help exhaust as much heat as possible. So continuing to cut more and more metal off the hood and install 4 additional vents to the hood.
Brake ducting has been an issue in past with it getting caught between the wheel and inner chassis structure or it will get pushed into the crank pulley. I need to look into getting the ducting around this area without it being damaged by either the wheel/tire or the spinning crank pulley. I have new hose ready to go for both sides but it looks like the only side needing it is the passenger side. Might just replace both for clarity.
Header is still in the box. Need the weather to warm up to get it coated in the DEI exhaust coating. Then get it installed and have the mid-pipe shortened to the new header.
The last and largest of issues we are tackling is the driver cooling. Up until now we have always ran races that were between 65-75F. August at VIR will not be as easy as the earlier or later races. Expecting ambient temps to rise into the 90's will mean the driver and cockpit of the car to be extremely hot during the mid day race periods.
First thing to add is a NACA duct to the driver side rear door window with a hose pointed at the back of the drivers neck. Naca duct has been cut into the window and riveted into place. Ducting moved around and fastened to the harness belt leading up to the belt window in the seat.
Second thing is to implement a drink system. Bought a cheap bicycle water bottle holder, water bottle and a long hose. Will fill before driver enters the car with water/ice and have it teathered to a line that they can pull down to face level and drink out of when possible(yellows?).
Third thing.....Ultra Chiller. They have a 50% off code right now on the cool shirt systems.
https://ultrachiller.com/collections/cool-suit-systems/products/400-series-cool-suit-system
So it was worth a try to get some sort of cooling for the driver. It looks like it will only last around 45 minutes but we plan on a drain/refill with every driver change. This coupled with the air flow and drink system should make it easier on the driver during the really hot portions of the day. Hope to get the system in well before the race so we can test it out.
Ill add some photos as we get things rolling.
You can make a coolshirt cooler really easy for really cheap.
Our 19 qt cooler (when filled with ice and a bottle or 2 of water), lasts most of a 2 hour stint if you cycle it on and off.
All you do is stick a marine bilge pump in the cooler and buy the proper fittings from McMaster carr. Easy and cheap.
Also, if you don't want the expense of all the cool shirts, we ran some surgical tubing all over the seat of the car and held it in place by sewing it to the cover with fishing line. Worked about 70% as well as an actual cool shirt.
Also, there is ZERO chance of that tiny system cooling for 45mins. I would be surprised if it lasted 15mins at VIR.
Fittings:
https://www.freshwatersystems.com/products/plcd17006-valved-in-line-hose-barb-coupling-body-3-8-id-barb
Pump:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B004LRBI9A?psc=1&ref=ppx_pop_mob_b_asin_title
Cooler:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B07MTQ7LMF?psc=1&ref=ppx_pop_mob_b_asin_image
The cooler NEEDS to have a gasketed top or water will just slosh out all the time and soak everything AND lose all the cold life giving water!
Total about $120. Easy to do too!
wvumtnbkr said:
Fittings:
https://www.freshwatersystems.com/products/plcd17006-valved-in-line-hose-barb-coupling-body-3-8-id-barb
Pump:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B004LRBI9A?psc=1&ref=ppx_pop_mob_b_asin_title
Cooler:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B07MTQ7LMF?psc=1&ref=ppx_pop_mob_b_asin_image
The cooler NEEDS to have a gasketed top or water will just slosh out all the time and soak everything AND lose all the cold life giving water!
Total about $120. Easy to do too!
Ordering now. Hope you are right.
What did you use for tubing? Just regular clear plastic tubing or did you go with the polyester weaved version?
Also, any pressure issues with going from 3/4 at the pump down to a 3/8 line through the side of the cooler and into the tubing?
Most of this tubing is only rated to 20-30psi on mcmaster. Will it pressurize higher than that? Dont want a fitting blowing off or blowing the tubing apart.
It shouldn't pressurize at all. It just dumps back in the cooler.
Whatever pressure is built at the pump is just due to the restriction of the hose.
We use the exact stuff I posted above for our cooler.
I just used whatever clear hose was available at Lowes Depot Racing.
I drilled holes very slightly smaller than the hose in the upper part of the side of the cooler. Then I smeared rtv on the hose and shoved it through the holes. I added an extra bit of tubing and drilled a 3rd hole to run the pump power wires for. I filled the end of this tube with rtv after running the wires through. Doesn't leak.
Sonic
UberDork
5/9/23 5:14 p.m.
We used to do the bilge pump in the cooler but found a better and easier way. Get a positive displacement water pump, like what is used for making RV water pressure and mount it right to the car. Then have multiple coolers on quick disconnects and you just change coolers with the driver. It is faster, less messy, and avoids the long priming time of most of the bilge pump setups.
for bonus points, get a live well timer from a bass boat to run it on intervals to make the ice last longer, it works great.
