Sonic said:
We used to do the bilge pump in the cooler but found a better and easier way. Get a positive displacement water pump, like what is used for making RV water pressure and mount it right to the car. Then have multiple coolers on quick disconnects and you just change coolers with the driver. It is faster, less messy, and avoids the long priming time of most of the bilge pump setups.
for bonus points, get a live well timer from a bass boat to run it on intervals to make the ice last longer, it works great.
What cooler are you using? We found we need one with a water tight seal. That would get expensive quickly.
Sonic
UberDork
5/9/23 8:00 p.m.
We use Igloo MBX25s with a bit of foam weatherstripping on the lid for a better seal. Works great.
Pump came yesterday. Cooler comes today. Will start building tonight.
Mounted pump into cooler. Glued the base in and screws in hopfully to make it water tight.
Ordered the 3/4 to 5/16 reducer fittings and the hose.
Driver cooling system is done. Plan is to wire it into car using Anderson Power Poles and on a switch panel. This way we can remove items we dont need by just unplugging them versus unwiring them.
Now to start drilling for the L brackets to hold it in place in passenger floorwell. Also looking into hydration tube covers for some insulation of the lines.
Some L brackets in aluminum, a $4 harbor freight ratchet strap and some time to get it installed this weekend into the car.
Thanks to wvumtnbkr for the heads up on a DIY kit for more space.
Cooler box mounted, lines wrap around the seat and are covered with hydration tube covers and outer jacket. Started wiring everything up into a new switch panel in the center console area.
Wired in a new rain light out back that meets the FIA flashing requirements. The one we had was just a steady light which a few of the enduro series dont allow.
Hood is finally finished. 4 new vents and alot of material removed from the underside.
I need to add a rectifier diode 1N4002 to the wire coming from the brake light(using 3rd brake light) to the FIA rain light to eliminate the feed back to the tail lamp brake light circuits. This way it only flashes the rain light and not the tail lights at the same time.
I bought the diode(1N4002) but am wondering once i solder it into place does it need to be covered with shrink wrap or something else to make sure it doesnt get damaged?
They're not super fragile but it wouldn't hurt to wrap it. I think in that use the diode won't need to shed too much heat.
paddygarcia said:
They're not super fragile but it wouldn't hurt to wrap it. I think in that use the diode won't need to shed too much heat.
Appreciate the insight. Will shrink wrap it just to be safe.
Only a few small things remaining to complete before the VIR24:
- finish wiring/installing electric power steering
- swap intake manifold/throttle body to ported versions
- install header/midpipe + weld to exhaust
- install new front wheel bearings and hubs w/ ARP studs(rear is done)
- remove strut tower bar to save VPI points + remount fire suppression nozzles
- change all fluids - transmission, oil, brake, clutch
getting a new cell phone on Wednesday and can finally add some new pictures of the car.
Wish I was closer to help. Wait.... right now that would be watch.
bobzilla said:
Wish I was closer to help. Wait.... right now that would be watch.
Have adult refreshments and room to stay if you're ever this way. Could always use a hand with this thing.
You NEED to come race with us in December at the 8+7 races at VIR. North Course and we usually get rooms/garage for the weekend.
We have space for VIR 24 if youre interested? One spot opened up around a week ago. Staying in two campers on site and have a garage for the car.
In reply to kevinatfms :
I'm not allowed in a car for another 6-ish weeks or more and restricted to minimal usage of my left arm. Thanks Road Atlanta. I've had to miss the entire season and it's friggin killing me.
bobzilla said:
In reply to kevinatfms :
I'm not allowed in a car for another 6-ish weeks or more and restricted to minimal usage of my left arm. Thanks Road Atlanta. I've had to miss the entire season and it's friggin killing me.
Sorry to hear. What happened?
In reply to kevinatfms :
Oopsie! I am seriously considering your offer for December though. If things work out and I get this stuff out of me and I am able to be under the hybridS and in a car.
bobzilla said:
In reply to kevinatfms :
Oopsie! I am seriously considering your offer for December though. If things work out and I get this stuff out of me and I am able to be under the hybridS and in a car.
That looks terrible. Hope you feel better. Broke my collarbone back in high school and it was such a mess. Healed ok but took all summer for me to get back to 100%.
Offer always stands. We usually rent a garage and will either have an RV or rent lodge rooms. No money required until after the race to settle up.
Only took one photo but new electric power steering is nearly done. Welded brackets in place, got new -6an line installed to OE rack and filled with fluid.
Turned on car, got pressure but then it stopped, heard a hissing sound and found 2 quarts of fluid on the ground. Figures that we forgot to tighten all of the fittings down before i filled and started the pump up.
But it worked! Steering was assisted with the pump to the original rack and felt quite good. Ill clean it up tonight, get the fittings tightened and refill the system for another test run later this week.
Once its good to go ill wrap all of the wires in loom and tape them up/secure them.
You're still running a cooler loop for that right?
bobzilla said:
You're still running a cooler loop for that right?
There was no cooler loop on the car to begin with. Literally two lines that ran from the pump to the rack and back.
We only replaced the one line(pressure side) from the attachment point on the rack to the new pump. Changed from the massive banjo bolt fitting to a -6an at the pump. Everything else is OE.
In reply to kevinatfms :
adding even a primitive loop in front of the condensor helps immensely. Funny because all the Tibs got the loop and none of the XD's did.
bobzilla said:
In reply to kevinatfms :
adding even a primitive loop in front of the condensor helps immensely. Funny because all the Tibs got the loop and none of the XD's did.
The thinking was to run it as is to see if it overheats. We dont think it will as the pump isnt running at 100% at all. From what im reading, the Volvo pump dependent on type runs between 65-75% power.
Secondary plan was to run a Dorman 918-319 Ford Transit power steering cooler by having all the connections ready and just run the line during the race if needed. The Dorman unit is $20 and has brackets to bolt it down to just about anything.
The OE Elantra pump overheated during the first race. It wasnt bad compared to a few friends with Miata's and Mustags but we did have some fluid accumulation around the reservoir. Once we swapped to the underdrive crank pulley for the 12 hour race we didnt find it overheated at all.
In reply to kevinatfms :
Yeah, the OE pumps were prone to heat soak and boiling. Nothing like bombing through the twisty side roads of West Virginia when the fluid boils and you lose p/s on the side of a big ass hill (I refuse to call them mountains).
bobzilla said:
In reply to kevinatfms :
Yeah, the OE pumps were prone to heat soak and boiling. Nothing like bombing through the twisty side roads of West Virginia when the fluid boils and you lose p/s on the side of a big ass hill (I refuse to call them mountains).
We never actually lost power steering even while racing non-stop for the 8 hours with the OE system. Just popped the hood to wipe the excess fluid and refill if we saw it was low. Someone had the great idea to zip tie a rag over top of the reservoir by the 5th hour which stopped having to clean anything.
It was the original Hyundai pump which was quite surprising for the amount of mileage and abuse its taken.
In reply to kevinatfms :
what fluid were you running? Definitely not the OE SPIII.
