Front Struts installed:
These things are a godsend for strut shaft nut install:
Control arms pulled to have old nasty bushings yanked.
Door Speakers and Mic for hands free installed
Hardwire V1 is Done
Sway bar end links ordered; need to decide on a specific sway bar
Nothing on a 12yo car is easy, even ones that don't have any rust issues:
I'll already ordered this $12.00 bolt from nissan. 
Things left to do:
I see a lot of love going to the suspension (money well spent, don't get me wrong). Any intention to upgrade the engine/trans/diff mounts?
Trans and engine mounts will be inspected but won't be replaced (even then with stock) unless broken.
Radius rods installed... Still need to put whole front suspension back together.
whole suspension reassembled. tape measure and plywood alignment done (0" ish toe, good enough to get me to a real alignment)... need to do a tpms relearn evidently.
I bought one of those new. They are pretty decent cars and are fun on the AutoX course. If you wear down the tires enough they become rear wheel steering.
I went with a Borla exhaust. It looked clean when it was installed and had less drone compared to the OEM. It also came in nearly 20# lighter.
They are fun cars. Great score.
Looking back at the ball joint repair, does it have two lower balljoints? How does that work?
gearheadmb wrote: Looking back at the ball joint repair, does it have two lower balljoints? How does that work?
It does. The suspension upright connects at two places to the lower control arm(s). There's one that runs horizontally (the "transverse link"), positioning the hub from the side (inboard/outboard) then the "compression rod" runs to a point just behind where the horizontal control member joins and positions the hub from the forward/backward direction (this is the banana shaped thing to the right in the first picture). It runs a huge amount of static caster when the wheels are pointed straight (highway cruising, etc) but when the wheels turn the caster is proportionally reduced. Since there are two lower pivots, i'm sure the geometry was carefully designed to allow for smooth steering with the correct amount of ackerman. (they don't connect in the same plane or at the same angle, but are basically 1 1/2" inches away from each other.)
here's a few pictures from the web.
Here's an article explaining it.
Also; got a new old stock OEM shift knob and created a "VDC Disable" switch (hacked the factory yaw sensor). The VDC in the track pack cars you can disable from the button on the dash but as soon as the wheels slip it re-enables itself. I created an interrupt switch (google VDC yaw hack 350z and you'll find instructions). 100% street class legal too :)
SCCA 2016 Autocross Street Class Rules: *** 13.9 ELECTRICAL SYSTEM *** G. On cars without the ability to turn off electronic stability control and/ or traction control (ESC/TC) from the manufacturer, modifications to defeat the ESC/TC are permitted. These modification are limited to altering the inputs to the ESC/TC processor (e.g., removing fuses, unplugging yaw or steering angle sensors, altering signals) and may serve no other purpose. Any codes or error lights resulting from ESC/TC modifications are permitted.
In reply to Autolex:
weird, when I turn My Z's (03 Track) VDC off its off until I shut the key off or press it again. Drifts, wheel spin and any other stupidity does not turn it back on.
Did you mention where you got the springs/ shocks? Mine are tired, but I dont want to deal with the work of corner balancing that threaded collars and coilovers bring. A small drop with quality shocks and street-able (and occasional track day) valving is exactly what I am after.
TGMF wrote: In reply to Autolex: weird, when I turn My Z's (03 Track) VDC off its off until I shut the key off or press it again. Drifts, wheel spin and any other stupidity does not turn it back on. Did you mention where you got the springs/ shocks? Mine are tired, but I dont want to deal with the work of corner balancing that threaded collars and coilovers bring. A small drop with quality shocks and street-able (and occasional track day) valving is exactly what I am after.
Go left foot brake. Even a little bit, it goes into limp mode.
Springs are stock (SCCA rulebook dictates this)... Struts came from import car parts.com (I probably bought the last set they had, it was around $550 shipped)/ Bilstein B6 (the ones I have) are great on stock springs. If you're going lowered then buy the B8 (about 50% more but designed for lowered springs)
Got my Radar Detector moved around, didn't like where it was before.
Going to try and get the alignment and the exhaust fixed this upcoming week.
Doing some work in my garage to get better wifi so i can use my chromecast on the garage TV for instructional videos and pandora... had it working for a bit, really neat feature to have!
0° toe, max camber (Professional) alignment complete.
Inspection and tags complete. (had to get a new inner tie-rod on the left side, re-man one had play)
Need to get the exhaust fixed and order some tires/tire pressure sensors.
This car sounds so good! Very eager to rotate!
Autolex wrote: Also; got a new old stock OEM shift knob and created a "VDC Disable" switch (hacked the factory yaw sensor). The VDC in the track pack cars you can disable from the button on the dash but as soon as the wheels slip it re-enables itself. I created an interrupt switch (google VDC yaw hack 350z and you'll find instructions). 100% street class legal too :) 13.9 ELECTRICAL SYSTEM G. On cars without the ability to turn off electronic stability control and/ or traction control (ESC/TC) from the manufacturer, modifications to defeat the ESC/TC are permitted. These modification are limited to altering the inputs to the ESC/TC processor (e.g., removing fuses, unplugging yaw or steering angle sensors, altering signals) and may serve no other purpose. Any codes or error lights resulting from ESC/TC modifications are permitted.
on my 06 once you hit the button it was off. Though note, one press only turned off a portion of the tractino control, you had to pull the fuse to permanantly disable it. I know this because I came in from fun driving home from work (snow tires and snow) and my rear brakes were smoking/steaming from trying to stop the slides...
This thing going to be at the GAX event on March 20th?
Mad_Ratel wrote: on my 06 once you hit the button it was off. Though note, one press only turned off a portion of the tractino control, you had to pull the fuse to permanantly disable it. I know this because I came in from fun driving home from work (snow tires and snow) and my rear brakes were smoking/steaming from trying to stop the slides...
Hence the need for the switch to disable it on command...
MINIzguy wrote: This thing going to be at the GAX event on March 20th?
Likely attend but not drive, we'll see what the tire fund looks like next week. Sounds like it needs new front wheel bearings too (Timken ones are ~$200ish delivered and based on research the only ones i'd want to run on an autox car).
Wheel bearings are here, will be replaced this week. Couldn't get fit in at the local welder so still need someone to fix the exhaust. Hopefully ordering tires next week as well (decided on 255/40 and 245/45-18 RE-71's, Correction 245/40-18 up front)
Anyone in the STL area TIG weld? can pay in cash or beer or combination of both... Need an exhaust pipe cut (pie section) to clear the diff then rewelded, then another a bit further downstream...
Autolex wrote: Wheel bearings are here, will be replaced this week. Couldn't get fit in at the local welder so having a sprint car builder autocrosser buddy of mine fix the exhaust on saturday. Hopefully ordering tires next week as well (decided on 255/40 and 245/45-18 RE-71's)
Why not go square?
IIRC from when I had mine, if there is a big enough difference in rotating diameter between front and rear it starts messing with the ABS.
z31maniac wrote: </c Why not go square? IIRC from when I had mine, if there is a big enough difference in rotating diameter between front and rear it starts messing with the ABS.
That's less of a size difference than stock (245/45 and 225/45-18) and it's the widest i can go on the stock width wheels (18x8.5" out back and 18x8" up front) without getting the sidewalls signifigantly pinched. I think the extra 10mm out back will be used.
But with a 255/40 out back and 245/45 up front wont the rears be shorter than the fronts instead of taller? Does that matter
Opti wrote: But with a 255/40 out back and 245/45 up front wont the rears be shorter than the fronts instead of taller? Does that matter
It's intentional, the car tops second gear around 65-66mph (and my local courses that's probably not a needed speed).
Check out the below chart I put together. Should give a little more grunt off the corners and a net top speed in second of about 63.5-64.5mph
The Yaw sensor hack should keep the cars nanny-state ECU and traction control from doing anything squirrely.
Your chart shows a 245/40 and 255/40, earlier you indicated 245/45 and 255/40
Opti wrote: Your chart shows a 245/40 and 255/40, earlier you indicated 245/45 and 255/40
apologies, i mis-typed. I wanted to keep the new front tire a bit shorter than stock as well to ensure they're at least close to each other and i'm not futzing with ride height and thus weight distro too much... (or steering response)
Okay makes more sense now
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