Sunday AM text from AK2: "car started howling and battery light came on." Closing in on 250k, I suspect alternator. I was headed out of town that morning so didn't get to check it out til last night. Yep, howling alternator.
Manchester Honda has new for $470 or reman for $370, but im down a car so need it today. Honda dealer here won't budge off his retail $775 / $650. AutoZone has Duralast Gold for $319, in stock, 1.0 miles from my house. So I got a nice walk in. ;-)
took me 3 hrs 45 min from hood up to hood down. My buddy says book time is 1.9, and he would bill 3 hrs at $140/hr, so I feel pretty good about (1) my working time and (2) saving $400-ish.
just a hair under 248k, can't really be mad at the OEM alternator. Ody is back in service, and I'm spending some of that savings on dinner!
Almost sent a 10mm to meet its destiny. Glad I saw it before buttoning everything up.
Nothing to see here, just the winter tire swap. Well, maybe one thing to see: an IP with no TPMS warning:
One of the low beams was out, so we replaced both and AK2 applied some elbow grease to the yellowed headlight lenses.
she also had a CEL that healed after a couple drive cycles. P0430, cat efficiency bank 2. At almost 250k on original o2 sensors and cats, I'm just gonna ignore that.
In reply to AngryCorvair (Forum Supporter) :
HIGH SCORE
Now, if could just figure out how to put in your initials.
reviewing my maintenance and repair spreadsheet, in the 9.5 years and 202k miles she's been in my fleet, Ody has received:
- 29 engine oil and filter changes
- 15 ATF services (2x full 12qt changes, 13x 3qt drain and replace)
- 5 power steering fluid changes
- 3-1/2 sets of winter tires
- 2 sets of summer tires (due for fresh summers when this winter ends)
- 2 timing belt / water pump / accessory drive belt / coolant flush
- etc
Phone call from AK2 today: "hey AC, what's a flashing red oil light mean?"
AC: "depends who's car!"
There were no sparkles in the 1.0 quart that drained from the oil pan, and no sparkles in the 0.5 quart that drained from the oil filter. Engine was just as sewing-machiny as ever. She was within oil change window, so we knocked that out after dinner. and I have made "check the oil every time you get gas" a condition of continued usage. Highest-mileage car, newest driver, longest commute. Good combo.
also happy to report that the polished headlights plus Silverstar Ultra bulbs are noticeably better at putting whiter light farther down the road.
253k and counting.
AK2 goes out the door to work, pops back in a few seconds later and says "van won't start," grabs Saab keys and rushes out. So I diagnose it as a bad ignition switch:
naturally I Google it and find a couple YouTube videos showing the same condition and fixing it with ignition switch R&R. AutoZone has a Duralast part in stock, limited lifetime warranty, $64 with tax. Got home with it just before 6PM, installation complete and tools put away at 7PM.
255k and counting.
Has she pegged the speeod yet?
lownslow said:
Has she pegged the speeod yet?
She does not have that gene. Which is pretty crazy given both her parents have heavy right feet. I have never had the van over about 95, and that was on a Mexican test track.
AngryCorvair (Forum Supporter) said:
lownslow said:
Has she pegged the speeod yet?
She does not have that gene. Which is pretty crazy given both her parents have heavy right feet. I have never had the van over about 95, and that was on a Mexican test track.
You might have to switch over to KM when this one hits 256k. I'm subscribed for the photos from the test track in Mexico.
Stefan said:
My old Shadow Turbo would do that when I would shift or the boost came on song.
Found out the steering rack bolts had loosened and worn the holes out on the K-member. Had about a 1/4 turn of slop by the time I fixed it.
So yeah, bushings, mounts, K-frame, etc. is all suspect.
The Oddy doesn't have enought torque to induce torque steer lol
It's a beautiful day for working on the Odyssey in the driveway, so that's what I did. Engine oil and filter change, power steering fluid change, and some speed tape on the torn intake boot.
just a tick shy of 262k, which puts Ody solidly in the lead for all time highest mileage vehicle I've ever owned.
Retirement day 4 was also 3 quart ATF spill and fill day for the Odyssey.
263k and counting.
Because I inadvertently put this in the for sale thread, when it belongs here:
Battery was dated 2019 and was only holding charge for about 3 days max, so I put a new Duracell in. Was out of town for a week, came home to dead battery. Today i did the inline DMM current draw diagnosis and sniffed out a 440mA draw on underhood 40A fuse #16, "Back Up / ACC". Drivers side interior fuse panel also has a "Back Up / ACC" fuse. Pulling said fuse yields a drop of about 440mA, but also disables keyless entry, power rear hatch (literally Back Up, LOL those Japanesers!), and the ACC position of IGN switch. So, leaving that fuse out isn't a good strategy for daily driving. I need to dig further and find the device which is causing the draw.
EDIT: I wonder if it's related to the FLAPS ignition switch, the ChiCom jungle site USB socket, or something else. I'm tempted to buy a one-day subscription to the shop manual so I can get the schematic for fuse #7. Yes, for a car I'm selling.
Seems like it started with that usb port... just disconnect and rerun your current draw test?
jfryjfry said:
Seems like it started with that usb port... just disconnect and rerun your current draw test?
Upon further testing plus internet research, the USB isn't on fuse #7 in drivers kick panel fuse block. Also, the OE grease in sliding door micro switches gets pretty solid with age, and eventually the switches quit switching. This causes the BCM to stay awake because it doesn't know the doors are closed. So I'm adding a toggle switch and a fuse holder in line in place of fuse #7, and I will label the switch "Battery Killer On / Off"
I will leave the micro switch disassembly and cleaning for the next owner.
Just a hair shy of 268k.
Van is still here, and occasionally doing van things. Yesterday was atypical though, as she sprung an ATF leak at some point. Didn't lose enough to slip, but left a puddle in the driveway and rustproofed part of the undercarriage. It's raining today, so maybe I'll chase it later in the week.
I had a few ATF leaks on our Odyssey when we bought it with 193k on it. One was the axle seal, and the other was from the lines that go into the radiator. The lines to the radiator tend to rust, and I saw some other folks on the Odyssey forum who had the same issue. I would start there. Also, how old is the radiator itself?
I had a few ATF leaks on our Odyssey when we bought it with 193k on it. One was the axle seal, and the other was from the lines that go into the radiator. The lines to the radiator tend to rust, and I saw some other folks on the Odyssey forum who had the same issue. I would start there. Also, how old is the radiator itself?
In reply to dj06482 (Forum Supporter) :
I think the rad is OE. I might dig into this on Wednesday. Tomorrow is booked.
wawazat
SuperDork
11/5/24 12:13 p.m.
The steel trans cooler line on our 2010 rusted away about 5 years ago. I bought a new OEM steel line but the fasteners were so far rusted that they were round and I didn't want to damage the radiator trying to remove them. I bought a piece of oil resistant rubber hose and used that instead. I zip tied it to the crusty metal tube.
