Got a pic from the last event:
And results posted:
http://tidewaterscc.github.io/archive-results/2016/04-April-24-2016.html
11th in PAX 22nd in RAW 72 total timed runs
There was one other driver in STF in a Matrix, though he wasn't fully prepped or anything close to it. He was like 5.5 seconds behind me.
I'm pretty happy with running faster than about 70% of the cars there, despite being one of the slowest classes. 
Were you running sans bar in the back? Car looks great by the way!
I wish we could have kept the first couple year's PAX. That .798 was awesomesauce!
EDIT: After watching your video.... why does it take so long to accelerate?
In reply to CyberEric: Yes. I feel on the solid beam rear it works better without a bar. Adding stiffness with springs keeps the chassis flatter(less camber loss up front) by making the outside rear spring resist compressing(duh), BUT it also means when the inside unloads the 400ish lbs of corner weight, the spring will only extend ~1/2in when fully unloaded. As opposed to say a 450lb spring that will extend about 1in when unloaded.
A bar works by trying to lift the inside rear to add roll stiffness, it still has a soft outside spring so when you accelerate out of a corner, the chassis is still jacking diagonally unloading the inside front.
I ran my first run with traction control on accident... It never even intervened(well, at least not enough for me to notice). To get an idea of the level of grip it added. With my prior 700/550 setup it would have killed my run on the first corner.
In reply to Bobzilla:
I have it tuned now... Should be MUCH better now. Not Sooper Kia fast but fast enough :)
And you can thank the RSX-S and Civic SI for that PAX bump. 
Good luck tomorrow if you're still running up in NJ. Soggy forecast. I am probably running the 'never gonna race this again' mazda3 in STF, thought about coming up there but the drive is still a PITA.
mazdeuce wrote: I'm glad to see you still developing this car. Still following along even if I don't comment much. It'll be nice to have a blueprint to follow when these get down to lunchbox money.
^This^
I aspire to document any and all future builds as well as this.
When you built your front strut assemblies, did you buy the tube and top nut? Is there a source for these or did you just buy tubing and add the fine threads and make the top nut?
I race a front drive car, typically a rear sway bar is used and it is normal to lift the inside rear wheel. The goal is to keep the front wheels on the ground and reduce wheel spin on turn exit. On the track, with front drive, you get back on the power much sooner, and pull through the turn.
In reply to RedGT:
Thanks!
It went pretty well. We got 10 runs, unfortunately all in the rain. I am pretty sure the 550s out back will be my rain setup, but we played around with 700/700 just to see if we could make it stick.. it was actually REALLY good on the whole course except ONE spot where a small river ran through an apex. There was some crappy pavement underneath too where it transitioned which may have also contributed to this video...
MSNE 5/1/16 Mazda2 blooper reel
However we played with tire pressures. Started with 33/38(just to see, this is what I prefer in the dry so far). We slowly dropped down until we ended at 30/28psi. Jeff's fastest run was on 30/29, min was on 30/28. We were in agreement that the 28psi in the rear felt better planted, it was just a matter of getting a clean run together. My fastest was on my very last run, Jeff's was on his second to last run.
Jeff beat me by 0.544 so I was happy I'm not too terribly far off of him. Because of how many runs we had we basically treated it like a rain test and tune.
Results are posted at MSNE here: Results HERE (Click on the May 1 results)
We finished 1-2 in our "E" class per MSNE classing, also would have been good enough for good places in several classes above outs. The 2 definitely punches above it's weight when it rains.
I finished 12th in raw time of 45, Jeff was 7th in raw time.
According to the MSNE PAX assignments(which are not SCCA standard), we finished 2nd and 5th in PAX. Me and Jeff were analyzing the data, and the cars at the top of the list are a DSP GTI, a BSP WRX, and an HS Mini.
Basically we looked up nearly all the cars' SCCA class PAX times and compared to how they would look with proper SCCA classing and not the MSNE pax numbers... Jeff had first and I'd be in third behind the HS Mini. I would need to find 0.144 to end up second.
Overall it was a lot of fun, we got a bunch of runs and were packed up and ready to go by like 2:00 which was great.
I can't wait to run this thing in the dry now I reckon I'll be doing some more experimenting with 700/700 vs 700/550 for rain events in the future. Probably more site dependent than anything. Smooth site and no standing water = 700s, rough site or standing water = 550s.
Ultimately learned some good baselines for tire pressure starting points at the next event though.
Here was my fastest run: Tony's fastest run
And Jeff's fastest run: Jeff's fastest run
In reply to white_fly:
Ha, thanks!
In reply to TED_fiestaHP:
I got the bare strut tubes, already threaded with custom gland nuts(started as MR2 gland nuts IIRC) from TM Family Racing. If you friend them on facebook and let them know what you want I'm sure they can get you the same blank builder's housings for whatever Koni insert you want.
That looks twitchy as hell but you guys certainly got good results with it! In your car on Sunday I would have been backwards and mowing grass. By comparison my 3 is so full of understeer it let me to do whatever the hell I wanted - if the front end would bite, the rear followed it no questions asked. For driving in torrential downpours that kind of confidence was great. PAX 2nd / Raw 8th. In the dry however my setup is infuriating.
RedGT wrote: That looks twitchy as hell but you guys certainly got good results with it! In your car on Sunday I would have been backwards and mowing grass. By comparison my 3 is so full of understeer it let me to do whatever the hell I wanted - if the front end would bite, the rear followed it no questions asked. For driving in torrential downpours that kind of confidence was great. PAX 2nd / Raw 8th. In the dry however my setup is infuriating.
It really wasn't bad anywhere else except that one spot on course where there was standing water + a dip/crack. I'll for sure go back to the 550s for a similar lot in the wet next time though.
Will post some pics of the event and the corner balancing we did, and some of the other goodies that followed me home over the weekend some time tonight or tomorrow.
Alright, so here is a run down of how the weekend went:
I left my place in VA Beach at about 8:00 toward Milltown, NJ to meet up with my friend Jeff who previously owned a nationally competitive STF Mazda2. He's also got like 15+ years of autocross experience and knows car setup and driving pretty well.
On the trip up I had no car problems, it was a nice drive until I got on the NJ turnpike. Someone wrecked and I was stuck in traffic for about 20min... so not too bad overall.
Made it to Jeff's at about 2:15 or so, unpacked everything and we immediately got to work.
..After we got some delicious cheese steaks of course. 
While Jeff was leveling his scales on his driveway, I changed out the torrington bearings on my front coilovers. They have been making awful noise/pinging/etc for the last few weeks because I haven't lubed them in a long time. Going to try using motorcycle chain lube this next time. Previously I just periodically aired them out on the car with an airgun/compressor, then hit them with white lithium grease. To be fair they lasted a good 20k miles with minimal problems.
I also took his scratch and (really big) dent special RacingBeat muffler and we installed it(this pic taken when I got home... didn't actually get one when in NJ):
We got it on the scales to see how close I had it:
Not downright terrible, but definitely shows why I had such bad wheelspin under power out of right turns when I was running the 550s out back. It still did it on lefts, but not as badly.
Rather than explain all the things we did, here are our notes:
Now... something I don't believe in is the diagonal or crossweight method of corner weighting. It's a bunch of crap and only applies for circle tracks.
I feel the best thing to do for balancing is to try and attain the same front to rear weight bias on the left side as the right side. This being a FWD car you ALSO want to be mindful of the LF vs RF weight since those wheels are worked the hardest. All of this also while watching your ride heights as well.
So we were calculating stuff like this:
LF/(LF+LR)=Left side front bias
and..
RF/(RF+RR)=Right side front bias
The idea is to get those both to the same number within 1% or so.
We started off with a 6% split... with the left side having a 65% front bias, and the right side having only a 59% front bias.
Our adjustments got us to here:
Which put us at 61.1% front weight on the left side, and 61.7% front weight on the right side.
I chose to call it good there, because with it slightly biased to the right, this improves the LF vs RF weight difference. As it stands it is less than an 80lb difference. The right side of the car is much lighter overall. Also if/when I install a small battery it should improve this LF vs RF difference even more(and consequently also further split the left side F/R ratio vs the right side.
I'm of the opinion that if it's reasonably close none of this will be a huge deal one way or the other, but think this is a really good compromise with no downsides.
We also checked camber and toe when done, camber is at -2.4 LF, -2.5 RF, -1.4 LR, and -1.2 RR.
We set the front toe to zero, rear toe didn't even bother because it's fixed
So the next day we rolled out to Metlife Stadium for the event...
I already went over how the event itself went so I won't bother repeating again.
It was a very successful event, had fun in the rain playing around with the 700s out back, so we went and got some dinner and talked about the car setup, etc afterwards.
One of the main reasons for making the trip up there was to bring a bunch of goodies home with me that I bought from him...
Got a complete 2nd set of 205/50R15 RE71Rs mounted on 15x7.5 TRM C1s... exactly the same as what I have now... a spare transmission(for future FSP and/or SMF shenanigans to put a diff into), plus some little stuff like 10mm wheel spacers and extra center caps, etc etc.
Here's a better pic of the tranny I picked up in New Jersey
I think that's all for now... in other news I'm daily driving on 700/550, it feels very good since I am retrying it since I found that higher tire pressures are more comfortable with this stiff suspension. Running 38/38psi(cold) produces the best road manners. Previously I always ran 33ish all around, and was constantly chasing shock settings because the car felt different every time I drove it... it turns out it was the tire sidewall flexing/compressing/springing that was causing some bounciness. I guess when it warmed up pressures went up and felt better. About 36+psi is where it feels acceptable, I run 38-39 for a bit of leeway with temperature changes, etc. It actually rides QUITE nice for what it is now. Shock settings for daily driving are fronts at about 1 turn off of full soft, rears are on their softest setting(#1).
edit: Also forgot, here is a pic earlier on in the process just to see the overall weight. It's 2254lbs as-autocrossed(no spare, tools, etc) with just a bit more gas than normal(we had a 40min drive to get to the site). So figure another 12-18lbs off of that when actually run. There were (3) bars on the fuel indicator(8 total, as it gets to the end the last bar starts solid, then in blinks, then it disappears and the E blinks for reference).
Here's an update from last weekend's test and tune Saturday, plus event on Sunday. I'm slow to put updates on this site because of the horrible forum post format for pictures
Had a LOT of fun all weekend, even though it was basically all rain.
At the event we put the 550 vs 700 rear spring question to the test for rain.
We ran all of the 550# spring runs under my name/#72... and then ran all of the 700# spring runs under Nick's name/#27.
Conditions did change a bit throughout the day, but when it wasn't wet, it was super sandy because of the wind blowing stuff on course. I know launching in the later afternoon got worse as I was getting wheelspin leaving at 1500rpms... I was leaving at 3500-4000 earlier in the morning.
I put some notes on my interpretations of the times run at the test and tune here:
The super fast runs were when we had one of the more experienced guys. He put about 0.5sec on me... so I know I'm definitely leaving time out there. most of it was on the first bit of the course... he said he stayed flat out through the whole slalom never lifting... I am not used to pushing it that hard just yet.
I'm not going to bother uploading one of me driving the test course, I took like 20ish runs and couldn't tell you which one was the fastest... but here is a clip of Brendan Long driving my 2 later in the day when it started to dry out a bit. I still was 0.4 sec off his time roughly. My fastest was a 24.2(not recorded as it was after run #20 in axware). He hopped in my car, and within a couple runs he did a 23.8.
VIDEO OF BRENDAN'S FASTEST RUNS IN MY CAR AT THE TEST AND TUNE
We settled on 29-30psi up front, and 30-32psi rear depending on amount of water on course at this particular site. The 700s NEVER felt out of control at any point on course like the one stupid bump/dip/river-apex at MSNE a few weeks ago.
Axware only shows 20 runs per person... there were MANY more runs taken in the afternoon. There were about 45 runs put on my car at the T&T total :o
Also the car was butt-ass dirty afterwards...
Then we had the TSCC PE#3 the day afterwards... the course was pretty fast and a lot of fun.
The weather was screwy again... First heat had rain early, with the last 1-2 of their 4 runs starting to dry out, second heat(when I ran) was luckiest, with the first 3 runs reasonably dry/just damp, then it started raining pretty hard for our 4th runs, then I believe it was raining/wet for the first 3 of their runs, and just sort of starting to lighten up on their last run. So keep in mind the results are somewhat skewed, and my results are mostly comparable to the ST and SP classes.
I paxed 6th and then 13th in raw time of 111 entries. I'm assuming under more even conditions for everyone it'd have been more like 10-12 in pax and 25-30 in raw time.
Here was my fastest run... I definitely left another half second out there. I chicken lifted on the first left turn. I made the mistake of not looking ahead far enough on my first run originally, so my second run(this one) I was trying to play it a bit safe to put a good time up. Third run was coned away early, and 4th got rained on... so this was the best one I could muster that day.
Also here is my codriver's best run. He's a 6ft+ lanky ass dude... basically drove the car from the back seat :lol: He's used to driving a pig heavy, more powerful, 350Z convertible... so this car was like the polar opposite of what he's used to
Our next event isn't until June 19th, again at ACU4. Hopefully dry.
INFO HERE IF YOU WANT TO COME OUT NOTE: You MUST pre-register to come out or else you will not be let on base.
In the meantime, I also did a write-up on my Carbotech AX6 pads:
Well I've taken way longer than I originally planned before writing a review, but I've put about 5k miles on my Carbotech AX6 pads, with 44 auto-x runs(15 of which were from codrivers).
I'll add just to note that I also installed DDMWorks stainless braided brake lines at the same time as these. Also they went on with brand new Centric Premium rotors.
So I installed them and my initial impression on the first couple stops leaving my street are "hmmm feel pretty good."
When I came toward the stop sign leaving the neighborhood, I gently tapped the brakes and WHOOOOAAAA!! The car just instantly stopped. It was pretty close to feeling like a light switch. So I adjusted my braking/driving habits accordingly. I've got to be honest that while they were acting like this, I was thinking to myself "man I hope these weren't a $160 mistake."
I was getting into the ABS just coming to stop lights. It took physical restraint to NOT bring the car to a complete stop early. Once they get a bit of heat in them they are the equivalent of throwing an anchor out the window... engaging ABS along the way. Not exactly good.
I drove the car for 4 more days, so about 400 miles were put on them, I got used to the pedal, but was still hard to modulate without looking like an idiot.
One day sitting in traffic looking at my car's reflection on the car behind me through the rearview mirror, I noticed that the brake lights were not coming on until about 1/2in of travel or so(I'd estimate the pads started to bite about 3/8in of travel or so), and I didn't want to start actually slowing down BEFORE the lights were coming on, so I decided to adjust the brake switch up one click. I did this by pressing the brake pedal down, and putting a -thin- screwdriver between the brake switch and the pedal, then let the pedal up and allowed it to "self adjust" while the screwdriver was taking up a bit more room.
I tested the lights out, they come on a bit sooner now... awesome.
Take it on a test drive. Woah! Brake pedal feels much more mellowed out. You can modulate it exceptionally easily now. Hard stopping is still just like before, stops you in a freaking hurry. If not now even better. It felt like the brake bias was shifted rearwards some under most conditions.
It felt like the stock brakes under about 70% pedal effort, but push harder and it's like the stock pads turned up to 12. It's exactly what I was looking for!
So why did this happen?
Electronic brake force distribution. We don't have a mechanical proportioning valve. EBD works by starting out with 100%(or very close to it) rear brake bias with the front pressure limited to some lesser percent.
As you start slowing down, the HCU(hydraulic control unit as Mazda calls it, or ABS module) monitors the wheel speed sensors, various other sensors(assuming the g sensors built into the SRS module) and detects the rate of deceleration. Once it gets to a certain threshold, the front brake force starts ramping up/getting added more and more bias the harder it slows down. There is also a point at which the rear brake force stops increasing and pressure is held constant.
This is what I learned based on reading a Ford Fiesta factory service manual. Mazda does not publish anything really useful, but this is a pretty basic concept among many manufacturers. It can also incorporate yaw rate and steering angle sensors, which is likely since we have DSC.
Now why would the brake light switch have that much effect on it?
Especially since it's nothing more than a simple on/off switch(not like a GM brake pedal pressure sensor where it's variable depending on pressure applied)?
To be honest, I can't tell you the exact reason, but doing an A-B-A test tonight, I confirmed that is what caused the change.
Since I pressed the brake switch self adjustment in one extra click to get the lights to engage sooner, I taped a penny to the pedal bracket where the brake switch touches to simulate about where it was previously adjusted(make brake lights come on a bit later). After this it went back to being super touchy sensitive on initial bite. Took the penny away, back to normal feeling brakes.
If I had to wager a guess... it's one of the following reasons:
-The EBD internal black magic doesn't start moving brake bias around until it sees that the brake pedal is pressed(via the brake switch)... so since my front pads are so aggressive so early on in pedal travel, the front was starting to bite before the HCU even knows the brakes are being pressed.
-The pads were biting RIGHT before the brake switch was pressed, so when I started pressing the pedal it WAS doing it's rear-bias thing like it's supposed to, with just a bit of front bite, then right at the brake light switch point the bite of the front pads are slowing the car down just fast enough that it allows more pressure at the front(so biased more forward), and due to the nature of the pads they bite harder, more bias, bite harder yet, etc etc.
I think this may be something worth playing with, but am not sure if benefits are to be had with stock pads or not. I'm taming some relatively aggressive pads so this may well be unique to my situation. It's definitely worth experimenting with, but know that you should have a good switch ready to go. The switch is one time use so be aware you can screw it up.
Now back to my impression of the pads:
I did the bedding in process, when they get hot they squeal. It's hard to describe, but it's not the same obnoxious shrill squeal when someone has the pad squeal indicator rubbing the rotor(or anything near as obnoxious as Hawk HP+ on a Camaro), but it will certainly let itself be known.
When you get them even hotter, they start changing in tone, sometimes it's a squeal similar to holding a cat by it's sides and rubbing it claws out against a chalkboard(mostly light braking), and sometimes it sounds like straight up metal on metal grinding(harder braking).90% of the time it's just a light almost whistle-like sound for just normal driving.
I have been doing 85 to 100 miles daily for a while now. I don't generally hear a peep from them when it's below about 60F, and they get louder from there. Mostly highway driving you won't hear a whole lot except when you slow down some under light pedal pressure.
I have had an occasion here and there where I'll get a "squeak squeak squeak" just driving down the road, not even touching the brakes. It'll change in tone with left and right turns or go away when you tap the brakes. I've heard others with this happen as well. It's always been at lower speeds like 25-35mph. It's done it like 3 times for less than 20 seconds each time over the course of nearly 5000 miles to get an idea of how rare this happens(in my experience). EDIT: After about 6500+ mi and multiple autocrosses, they now do this much more often, see my update post below.
Now for autocross... they are freaking AWESOME. They have about the same amount of initial bite as the stock pads(honestly could be a bit more, or a bit less, it's too hard to truly tell), are super easy to modulate, and when you really need to stop, you give it more pressure and it stops like you're throwing an anchor out the window in a very controlled way.
Jeff(user jasyatz) codrive my car at an event recently and this was probably one of his favorite attributes of my car. Here's a quote from him:
jasyatz said: And holy crap the brakes are fantastic! Like plant your face on the steering wheel awesome.
They're pretty much exactly what I was looking for(after doing the brake switch adjustment) performance and driveability wise.
The only downside... they dust like you wouldn't believe. The dust comes off incredibly easily IF you get it off before it rains.
After 2 days(200mi of all highway driving and very minimal city driving) my wheels are completely caked in dust. The awesome thing is if you take just a garden hose to the wheels, the dust literally about 95% of it just flows right off. The not so awesome thing is when it rains, it flows somewhat off the wheel, but dries back on in splotches and looks like complete crap.
When it does this over the course of 2 or 3 weeks multiple times and you have been lazy about cleaning the car/wheels, it requires scrubbing and doesn't come off quite as easily. There are some tiny speckled spots in the crevices of the wheels where it's pretty hard to remove. Still not as awful as HP+ dust FROM WHAT I'VE HEARD. I know they have a reputation of being corrosive to the wheel and being impossible to remove. FWIW I suspect the little speckles of crap that require more time to remove may be bits of the rotor and not the pad, though they are not brown/rust colored so that may not be it. Just speculation.
So in a nutshell I'd give them the following ratings, 1 being poor or bad, 10 being great or desirable, etc.
[B]Initial bite/feel: 10
Full pressure stopping power: 9
Ease of modulation: 9
Noise(normal conditions): 3
Dust(amount): 2
Dust(ease of cleaning): 9 if it has not been rained on and de-dried... 3 if it's been rained on a couple times. You will NOT get them clean easily if so. [/B]
They cost right about $160 from SOLO PERFORMANCE
The biggest question is would I buy them again?
Absolutely. They fit my needs, the dust doesn't bother me [I]too much[/I], nor does the noise. I may try their less aggressive 1521 "bobcat" compound the next time around though.
Oh yeah. One last cool thing about them is they throw sparks at night time
under HARD braking :)
After last weekend's test and tune on Saturday(45 runs on the car) and then event on Sunday(another 8 between me and my co-driver)... the brakes squeal like a train once they get a bit warm. It's also been 85 deg out which I think is the bigger factor for noise while braking.
However the annoying thing is that they now squeak-squeak just while moving, not touching the brakes... a LOT more often now. I'm pretty tolerant of a lot of things, but the chirping while moving between 20 and 45mph is getting pretty old pretty fast.
I'm going to try and pull the pads off and lube them up some time this weekend. I don't care about the squealing while braking(though it does sound like a small train), but the chirping while just moving is pretty irritating.
On a side note it's pretty funny getting odd faces from people while coming up to a stop. 
Here's a video I made compiling what to expect from these pads on a short 15min drive. They get louder when driven longer, or harder, or if it's hotter outside.
Been slacking on the updates again.
Copy and paste from another forum it's documented in from the last event results:
We finally had a dry event at ACU-4 last weekend!
The car did REALLY well, and there's definitely room for improvement still.
The setup was 700/700 with the light control arm sway bar out back. Started with 33/38psi, ran my front shocks pretty soft(IIRC 1/2 turn from full soft), rear on #5(of 8), felt like crap. Pushy everywhere.
Went up to 33/40 and set front shocks to 1 turn off of full stiff... got MUCH better. Stopped pushing like crazy, but we still wanted more rotation.
Went up to 33/42 and that was where we left it for the remainder of the event... definitely needs more rotation though. I suspect I need more camber up front(running 2.1deg now) and/or a heavier rear sway bar to get it to lift-oversteer a bit more responsively.
My codriver's 450AWHP STI was down so I offered him to drive my car. He's an instructor at a police driving academy and is pretty damn good. He put 0.75sec on me, I know I have a bunch of room for improvement myself.
Here was my fastest run:
My co-driver's fastest run:
Results:
http://tidewaterscc.github.io/archive-results/2016/06-June-19-2016.html
I got 5 in PAX, 18th in raw time of 92... Brendan got 2nd in PAX, and 13th in raw time. Note that some people got 3 runs and others got 5... there were issues at the event causing a massive delay which is what caused that.
We have an event coming up on July 17th, so I'm planning on adding some more camber before then(maybe bump up to about 2.6-2.7 deg) and I may bring my DDMWorks sway bar(heaviest one I have currently) to see how it works out.
At ACU-4 I'm getting some aggressive wear on the outside shoulder of the front tires, so I'm thinking there is grip to be had by adding some camber... the question is will it hurt corner-exit in the form of inside wheelspin or not?
I don't thing you have enough power (not being a smart ass) to be detrimental for corner exit. Even with all my mad-torx at -3.2-ish it's not bad. Mid corner I still light them up, but it would do that with stock .8 cambers. You'll likely be able to carry more speed through the corners negating the need to be as hard on the throttle to regain what you lost.
Just my thoughts.
Bobzilla wrote: I don't thing you have enough power (not being a smart ass) to be detrimental for corner exit. Even with all my mad-torx at -3.2-ish it's not bad. Mid corner I still light them up, but it would do that with stock .8 cambers. You'll likely be able to carry more speed through the corners negating the need to be as hard on the throttle to regain what you lost. Just my thoughts.
I think you're right on.
I probably won't be able to do it until this winter, but one of my next focuses(after weight loss) is to get as much caster as possible. The jacking effect that increasing caster has should push downward on the inside wheel while turning, hopefully minimizing the light inside tire problem.
I still want to use the Whiteline increased caster bushings for hte SeX. Adds another half degree in a car that is lacking stock.
Bobzilla wrote: I still want to use the Whiteline increased caster bushings for hte SeX. Adds another half degree in a car that is lacking stock.
Same here. If I redo my strut housings... I could make them shorter, and make an upper strut mount that puts the strut top several inches behind(and under) the center hole in the strut tower.
Adjusting would suck. But I think adding 4-5 degrees of caster could be done. This would have to be strictly if I trailer it... Which I am talking with a friend of mine to codrive next season and us doing just that. We'll see what happens.
YEah, this is still the daily as well. I don't mind a little roughness for that. I am likely towing to Lincoln this year though... I can bring more stuff in more comfort.
Looks great, glad the car is so much fun. Good luck going forward.
Very random question: what is the black hatchback in the background in your post from May 3rd where your car is on the scales?
In reply to CyberEric:
The right side where you can only see the rear wheel and hatch? That's a Forte5. I can tell by the wheels.
In reply to CyberEric:
Bob is right. That's Jeff's 2015 Forte5 SX turbo. He's running it in HS for a few years on a lease as he kicks himself for selling his 2.
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