Small update . . .
Since the E36 5.0L is nearly done . . . I figure I start thinking about the "Roach".
I made some changes and will attempt running a set of Conquest 16x7 and 16x8 wheels instead of the 14x7 MKII Supra Wheels. Thinking of trying out Box Flares from JThw8's tutorial.
Once I get it up, running, and fish out the issues, I'll add Megasquirt, M90 SC and 4ZE1 Intake Manifold.
Manual Steering rack goodies:
Wiring harness and goodies:
I have the Cressida front 5-lug bits ready to go. I need to pull the rear axles + drums and take them to the truck shop for 4 => 5 lug weld and drill mods.
Slight change (as usual) on the ECU. I'm going to use a GM 7730 ECM and wiring harness. A v6 Camaro at Pull-a-Part donated all of the goods for the cost of a premade wiring harness for Megasquirt.The 7730 is thoroughly hacked and has pretty good support. Interesting tidbit, the 7749 was on a late 80s turbo Sunbird. The 7730 can be wired like a 7749 and will run the 7749 bin files. Several peeps have used that bin file on 22RTEs without much issues.
Thanks to Dusterbd13 for bringing this to table!!
Along with the change from a steering box to a rack, the 3TC exhaust exits right where the rack connects to column . . . best way to fix this is use a turbo!! 
Total = $134.80
Got to LOVE Pull-a-Part!!
Woohoo, loved this thread.
Also quite glad to see a pulse on this thread...
Don't blame me for your journey down the rabbit hole of gm ecm tuning/conversions....
Aw, who am I kidding. Im an enabler of the first degree
Lok into code 59. Pretty awsome and wild stuff.
Wednesday:
Wired a cheap electric fan I had laying around in attempts to perform a tune-up. The car would puff sooty black smoke on accel and was pretty sluggish. The timing was supposted to 10°, but found out it was set to 20° 
. With the spitting and sputtering nearly gone, I noticed the fuel level on the sight glass was always at the top and the was still spewing soot. I decided to pull the carb and found it was leaking in several places and fuel float being WAY out of spec. In the box of parts that came with the car was a replacement carb. Since everything about this 3TC is a mystery, why berk not!! Let's make it MORE mysterious!!
Thursday:
I pulled the head yesterday to replace the valve seals cylinder 4 spark well kept filling up with oil. I made another $20 order to RockAuto for gaskets and hoses. While I'm waiting for parts to arrive, I'll drop on a cut up gasket from the 4ZE1 intake to check the port spacing. The 4ZE1 intake would be cool, but if it's too much work, I have a complete TBI unit from a Starquest that could be used in place of the carb.
In reply to Dusterbd13:
I was thinking about using 7730, your post with along feedback and info from others help push the button!! Code 59 does have some completely wild options.
7727 is the waterproof version. But different harness....
No head
Cleaned Exhaust valve on the Left . . .What it looked like before cleaning on the Right
Stuck the 4ZE1 intake manifold gasket up to the 3TC head
The ports are OH so close!! The adapter will need to be at least an inch thick to give the bolts and studs enough material to be effective . . .
Now for the Starquest TBI unit
This TBI will work as well with 1-1.5" tall adapter (to have a usable throttle ) on the 3TC intake manifold.
Either option should work, but the TBI unit looks the easiest thus far.
Now I wait for FedEx and USPS to deliver the rest of mah goodies!!
Does the Isuzu 4ZE1 run/adapt to GM TBI or are you doing something really crazy here?
It wouldn't surprise me if they did have some partsbin with the mothership.
Is semi-crazy an option?? 
I originally planned to run the Conquet TBI unit. The G54B TBI unit sits on a carb-like intake. So adding that unit to any 4cyl carb intake is only an adapter away . . . Two injectors (primary is 580cc and secondary is 1080cc) would support what I want to do.
I found a post from an Australian forum that indicated the 4ZE1 intake is close in port spacing. The local Pull-a-Part yard had a Trooper II with a 4ZE1 and Corolla with a 2TC. A quick test mockup looked viable, so I grabbed the 4ZE1 intake set up. The stock injectors will be fine for NA, not sure for a turbo later (though some have run the 4ZE1 with stock injectors + turbo (7ish PSI)) . . . But 450cc DSM injectors would solve the fuel issue if needed.
As far as cost to budget, I scored both loaded units (injectors, IAC, regulator, TPS) for $35.
So . . . After new gaskets (head, intake, exhaust, and valve cover), valve seals and radiator hoses, I threw on a carb that was included in box-o-parts that came with the car.
Anything lower than ~1000ish rpm idle would die, the fuel bowl is completely fuel, and sooty smoke of the tail pipe . . . AWESOME!!
I does drive ok in the cul de sac, but I can't really test it until I get some real tires on it.
Should I attempt to adjust the fuel float?? Suggestions, tips, hints??
Sounds like either high float, stuck choke, or overly rich idle screw adjustment.
That is assuming that timing is correct and no vacuum leaks.
In reply to Dusterbd13:
Timing was checked and within spec. The choke appears to open up automagically like should.
The only things left are the float, idle mixture screw, and vacuum leaks.
I'm going to get rid of the vacuum line rats nest today.
No carb or engine work done today.
Instead I focused on cleaning the interior installing the dash, fitting the passenger seat, and some panels. Some major pieces of the dash is missing, broken, or in poor shape. May have to turn to sheet metal for those areas.
The Box-O-Parts that came with the car is officially empty!!
Time to take pictures of all the audio crap, A/C components, and others parts to sell.
Carburetor = 2 and SZ = 0
The fuel level in the bowl is spot on after the float fix and got the idle down to 750ish rpm.
It is STILL running rich. Will try again tomorrow . . . I think I'm going to grab the original carb and rebuild it. The one inthe box-o-parts was "supposed" to be rebuilt. . . If rebuilt means new parts, yes. If rebuilt means correctly, no.
if you want to run the gm computer might it not be easiest on that to stick with a gm tbi unit?
i could probably hook you up with one off a 3.1 tbi dustbuster van for whatever a flat rate box costs to ship if you need it. it has smaller bores than the v8 throttle body but still 2 injectors.
or if you go port injected you could remove the injectors and block off their hole and use it just for air metering and sensors.
I originally considered going to GM TBI unit. If I was staying N/A, you would be shipping the 3.1 unit to me!!
But the TBI (just like the carb) needs to be sealed for forced induction + 350 or 454 tbi injectors + adapter plate + carb hat.
The way my luck goes, I would break off the drill bits thus ruining the TBI unit . . . 
Going around my elbow to scratch my wrist only risks a $30 piece of aluminium bar.
Small update:
Interior
Seats - New mounts being built
Steering Column Bulkhead mount
Making a Template
Template Mounted
Cuts made
Steering column mounted; Stock exhaust routing issue
Steering rack crossmember
Original crossmember relieved of engine mounts
Welded and ready
TRD (left) vs eBay (right) rear spring
Too much bumpstop
Just a little off the top
A little better
Way low - Driver side
Before trimming the bumpstop - Passenger side
Conquest Wheel with a tall tire (225-50-16)
Flares will be needed
Unmodded Cressida lower arms
Cressida (top) vs Corolla (bottom) arms
Cut
Cut
Fit
Weld
Prime
Much better (tire is ~1.5" bigger in diameter: 185-70-14)
Wheel centered
Steering rack installed
Stock exhaust routing
I'm at a stopping point for the next few weeks. DDs need some attention
I have to decide on the Celica Supra wheels (14x7) or Conquest wheels (16x7 and 16x8). Both will take similar amounts of work (flares, spacer or adapters for the rear, shorten the front strut housings for the TRD springs). The Conquest wheels for the front adds making a lower spring perch using 5-lug Cressida strut housings as the stock one is too big.
After that, I have to get some outer ball joints and SW20 struts for the modded front.
Spent some time with the welder today. I need more wire! Down to my last spool!!
Cut and angled the dump pipe to go around the steering rack.
I have to get some flanges as it was originally one piece from the manifold to muffler.
After whipping the head off, checking head and block, flushing the block and radiator, and throwing on new gaskets . . . I'm sorta back to where I left off with the stock carb but not as rich. Some of this maybe remnants of old gas in the system.
I have the regulator turned down to 2psi. Next step is to check the float on the Weber and retune.
I needed to clear my head yesterday. So I headed to my local Pull-a-Part to grab a steering ujoint for the Roach.
According to inventory, they had a SC Previa on the yard . Surely the SC would be gone, but it had a ujoint I needed.
Well, the SC was still there! It turned by hand, but had some light resistance. I pulled it off and found it full of acorn nuts and squirrel poo. Oh . . . and no oil in the gearbox.
It has very little play. The clutch pulley is toast. After I tore it down, cleaned it up, reassembled, and added some gear oil (temporary) . . . It spun up real nice!
I have to get some SC oil, clean the case, and find a pulley
Found the issue of the 3TC bellowing white smoke. The brake booster was full of brake fluid from a long removed leaking master cylinder. In turn, fluid was being sucked from the booster into the intake
I picked up a booster and master from an early 90s Tercel.
After the booster issue, I will turn my attention back to the Weber.
Here's a baseline for a 3TC:
Here's what I found in my Weber:
It idles fine with 2 turns from close on idle mixture screw and 1.5 turns on idle speed screw. After than it gets pretty stupid . . . Slow tip in on the throttle responds with mushy and garglely response until about 4000rpm. After 4000rpm, it revs ok . . .
Time for a jet kit and some time . . .
Cool find on the supercharger! Those things sound awful when they get chewed up, yours definitely seems not that bad.
What weight is supercharger oil?
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