Can you drop the pan with the engine in-situ? I would guess you can. Even if you need rings, I'd pull the head and pan on a wednesday night, and do the gas test on the valve seats. If good, rejoice, if not, take to machine shop thursday morning. Check rod bearings, if good, rejoice, if not, order online wednesday night. Install new rings on pistons and you should have bearings and head back from machine worst-case saturday afternoon. Re-assemble saturday night.
Auto-x sunday.
https://www.innovativemounts.com/ProductDetails.asp?ProductCode=18950
I told you I can source pretty much anything for these cars :p
After all the tunatruck work, I would think mounts for a swap would be fairly straightforward. Granted, that doesn't speak to trans/axle solutions.
I did indeed do a lot of good work on that truck. This, however, is intended to be a cheap daily driver. I'll bring it to the challenge for giggles. I am not into fabricating stuff for engine swaps for a $600 driver.
Also, for the more important but, the truck isn't done. I have many more hours and many more dollars to spend on it. This accord needs to be a two day engine fix, not a two week fix.
One more: those mounts would nearly blow the budget by themselves without the engine!!
I have an aem dryflow cone filter I picked up for 3 $ from pullapart. Thats another problem solved.
Dusterbd13 wrote: I have an aem dryflow cone filter I picked up for 3 $ from pullapart. Thats another problem solved.
GREAT!
Any 2" (for the intake) or 2.5" (for the exhaust) tubing laying around?
Ill look, but don't hold your breath. Think i sscrapped all that. When I can move the drivabeater and get into cold storage, ill have a better idea of what ive got.
Think i have some misc unidentified poly bushings up there...
Ain't no telling what crap I have laying around.
Tunawife says to put on the Barry Manilow and let's hope they make a tiny el Camino
70
75
50
175
Well, it's berkeleyed.
I'm guessing that you were right on rings.
Hone the piss outta it and slam in some fresh rings?
rcutclif wrote: Can you drop the pan with the engine in-situ? I would guess you can. Even if you need rings, I'd pull the head and pan on a wednesday night, and do the gas test on the valve seats. If good, rejoice, if not, take to machine shop thursday morning. Check rod bearings, if good, rejoice, if not, order online wednesday night. Install new rings on pistons and you should have bearings and head back from machine worst-case saturday afternoon. Re-assemble saturday night. Auto-x sunday.
^This. I did this with a 91 prelude that my friend's son bought with the head in the back seat. Mind you, i did this after he paid me to put the car together with the head that was in the back seat after I begged him to take said head to the machine shop to have it checked out (he insisted the head was good, i didn't feel bad charging him for another head gasket job, but i did feel bad because my friend, his mother, ended up paying for it). Dropped the pan after removing the head, popped the pistons out the top, couldn't hone it because it was a B21, rolled in new rings and re-used the bearings. Put it back together with a new head gasket. He drove it till he burned up the clutch.
I'll take it apart in situ. If I se cross hatching and no ridge, I'll leave it with a quickie hone. If I see something else, I'll act accordingly.
I'm going to replace valve seals because they're under $1 anyway.
I'll wait until I get enough time to take it apart to buy stuff, because from the interwebz experience, the pistons themselves may be bad.
Bear in mind that sharing the garage with kids stuff and the truck means that four kiddo ride on toys and the ride on mower have to be moved to push the car back every time I want to work on it, so time will be even shorter than normal.
The head seemed good, as judged by watching everything in motion while Tunakid #1 and Tunakid #2 took turns waching/turning the key. A quick hammer smack on the valves showed no slop or broken stuff. No shiny oil bits which would point to a bad camshaft. I got the intake stuff off today along with the compression test.
Um, have you checked the valve adjustment? Hondas in general and these in particular are not very forgiving if not adjusted every 15k. Did the valve cover leak? They aren't designed to last very long before replacement. Probably not your problem, but free to check.
There's one just like it sitting in my yard rusting away. It ran when parked, just too rusty to drive. Would probably let it go for scrap value...it would probably cost more than it's worth to haul from WI though.
There is a set of standard sized pistons with rings on my shelf. I decided to go with at least an .020 overbore on my motor, so they're probably going to sit here forever. Let me know if you do end up needing pistons.
I like these cars a lot. I've had 3.
tuna55 wrote: Remember this is going to be my primary DD car, so any livery has to be temporary and removable.
A friendly request could possibly net you some chicken of the sea graphics done in vinyl which would be removable afterwards ;)
I'll pm you a friendly request later on!
Derick, I'll probably take you up on those pistond but beware, Rockauto has the for like $12 apiece.
Thanks for the heads us jd, I checked a few today and all lashes seem normal.
Exhaust manifold is mostly removed. I don't own the right wrench to get the EGR pipe off, so I stopped. All of the other exhaust manifold fasteners are removed.
I have to say, Honda did their exhaust manifolds right. Those nuts came right off with zero trouble. I don't know how they do it.
On the other hand the downpipe nuts were tough. I did get a fun cut, but I think I'll live.
I think that's where I got these from. Either Rockauto or Amazon. $40 or so for the set seems to be about what I paid at the time, too.
tuna55 wrote: Exhaust manifold is mostly removed. I don't own the right wrench to get the EGR pipe off, so I stopped. All of the other exhaust manifold fasteners are removed. I have to say, Honda did their exhaust manifolds right. Those nuts came right off with zero trouble. I don't know how they do it. On the other hand the downpipe nuts were tough. I did get a fun cut, but I think I'll live.
you can probably thank the oil in the engine bay for that...
I was thinking that exact same thing.
got a pic of what you need for the egr pipe? maybe I have it in my garage.
A blue wrench is what's needed.
I would edit that last post, but it says "Broke" when I try.
The exhaust nuts have about a 50/50 chance of coming off with the stud still attached. You're extremely lucky that your leaking valve cover gasket or high pressure power steering hose soaked those nuts in lube for the last decade or two.
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