Either a long breaker bar or a serious impact gun is the key to getting the crank pulley bolt off. Most people doing timing belts on these cars end up taking it to a shop to get it broken, then they limp it home and take it apart. I have had good luck with a several foot long cheater bar over my breaker bar. The last time I did it, the cheater bar was a 5 foot long section of pipe. That worked out really well.
Derick Freese wrote: Either a long breaker bar or a serious impact gun is the key to getting the crank pulley bolt off. Most people doing timing belts on these cars end up taking it to a shop to get it broken, then they limp it home and take it apart. I have had good luck with a several foot long cheater bar over my breaker bar. The last time I did it, the cheater bar was a 5 foot long section of pipe. That worked out really well.
Nope.
You read it wrong.
I got the bolt off, no problem (and I don't own any power tools, and didn't have a working jack to get the wheel off, the car was on the ground, and I was under it, I'm just that good), but I can't get the actual pulley off.
As Dad would say "Strong like bull. Smart like tractor."
Gotcha. There's an official tool, but a dead blow is what I've always used. Scares me every time.
lol tuna.
i've heard of many people hating taking that bolt out. maybe you only think you got it off?
do you have a blow torch? heat up the pulley and whack it once or twice. that should loosen the biatch up.
Mad_Ratel wrote: lol tuna. i've heard of many people hating taking that bolt out. maybe you only think you got it off? do you have a blow torch? heat up the pulley and whack it once or twice. that should loosen the biatch up.
Only propane. Wouldn't whacking it push it more-on?
If a little doesn't work, put moron.
The bolt was no biggie. It was tight, but I'm sure it's off, it's sitting in the bin carefully labelled "Honda parts you are praying you can remember how and where to put back".
Derick Freese wrote: Gotcha. There's an official tool, but a dead blow is what I've always used. Scares me every time.
There's like 2mm (it's metric) space between the pulley and the block, where do you hit it? Prying only made it mad.
tuna55 wrote:mazdeuce wrote:Your engine is a B18, yes? This may be different as it's an A20.Derick Freese wrote: Most of us leave it attached to the head and pull it as an assembly. It makes the jub much easier.Thanks. I feel like this could be useful information in the future.
D16, but I can already see my self thinking things like "I love Hondas! I'll buy another one!" Deucelings are rapidly approaching the age where I can use them as an excuse to buy MORE cars.
mazdeuce wrote:tuna55 wrote:D16, but I can already see my self thinking things like "I love Hondas! I'll buy another one!" Deucelings are rapidly approaching the age where I can use them as an excuse to buy MORE cars.mazdeuce wrote:Your engine is a B18, yes? This may be different as it's an A20.Derick Freese wrote: Most of us leave it attached to the head and pull it as an assembly. It makes the jub much easier.Thanks. I feel like this could be useful information in the future.
Uhhm, you're oldest is like 8? I am confused.
Anyway, carry on, however you manage what you manage.
Also, not loving Honda's right now.
Tuna, you just whack it to free it. not necessarily off or on. The torch is meant to heat the pulley up enough that it unfreezes from whatever it is frozen/gunked too. the whack breaks the stiction some.
Mad_Ratel wrote: Tuna, you just whack it to free it. not necessarily off or on. The torch is meant to heat the pulley up enough that it unfreezes from whatever it is frozen/gunked too. the whack breaks the stiction some.
Alright, I'll whack it tonight.
Not like that.
Whack it real good! 
I swapped intake manifolds on my '97 D16 civic without removing the head. It wasn't too bad. Honda must have learned a thing or two between 1988 and 1997.
In reply to tuna55:
Less than two years to a permit for Deucekid #1. I'm already shopping.
mazdeuce wrote: In reply to tuna55: Less than two years to a permit for Deucekid #1. I'm already shopping.
Un-asked for advice:
Make him pick it out, test drive, and pay for it.
How do you think I learned all of this? When I asked TunaDad he said stuff like "I don't know, it sounds like it's broken"
Head on bench. Sit, head, sit.
Block in car. Stay, block, stay.
Valves in chamber. Open, valves, open.
What I see looks pretty good.
I'll remind anyone doing this that you won't be able to push the pistons down by hand if the car is still in gear. That was troubling until I realized the magnitude of my idiocy.
A question. I can still see the factory cross hatches, 300K later. I feel no ridge at all at the top of the bore.
Assuming the pistons are good (I will find out next session), should I just gap and install the new rings and slam it together? Is there anything to be gained with a quickie hone? I can see a lot to lose. If I hone-in-place, I have to deal with metal shavings. Not sure the best way to do that just yet.
If you can see the hatches I wouldn't touch it with a hone. Are you still suspecting rings?
mazdeuce wrote: If you can see the hatches I wouldn't touch it with a hone. Are you still suspecting rings?
Based on the compression and the fact that it was blowing through oil that fast it has to be either rings or the pistons themselves. I don't think I'd go through that much oil if just the valveseals were bad but I could be wrong. I'll know when I get the pistons out.
Im actually thinking both rings and seals based on the way the pistons look. In my head, ring blowby would leave a shiny edge on the piston. Valve blow by would coat the top of the piston pretty evenly, which you also have, just in different holes.
Im not an engine guy though. You are now deeper than I've ever been. Head gasket is where I stop.
I do have the specialty tool for overhead cam valve spring removal though if you want to borrow it.
All things considered, it sounds like you're still lucking out. No major internal damage. Are you going to do any valve seat cleanup or just put it back together with new pistons/ rings/ valve seals?
Dusterbd13 wrote: Im actually thinking both rings and seals based on the way the pistons look. In my head, ring blowby would leave a shiny edge on the piston. Valve blow by would coat the top of the piston pretty evenly, which you also have, just in different holes. Im not an engine guy though. You are now deeper than I've ever been. Head gasket is where I stop. I do have the specialty tool for overhead cam valve spring removal though if you want to borrow it.
Valve seals are so cheap that it would be silly not to do it.
I'd love to borrow that tool!
volvoclearinghouse wrote: All things considered, it sounds like you're still lucking out. No major internal damage. Are you going to do any valve seat cleanup or just put it back together with new pistons/ rings/ valve seals?
I'd like to do valve and seat lapping, but I am not sure I can fit it in the budget. I may do the quickie lap with the compound in situ. Not sure yet. I'd love a good three angle job, but I don't even know where to look.
Also, are these rod bolts going to be happy being reused and torqued into place, or are these things finicky and want new bolts that are pressed in and resized big ends and stretched into place?
Also, reusable head bolts? I would think that this was well before the torque to yield stuff.
Also, I think I can shave off 1.5mm to 2mm and get over 10:1 compression but I need an adjustable cam gear to re-advance the timing. And it needs to be cheap. I am not seeing a real easy DIY solution now that I have the gear in my hand, thoughts?
Get a spare set of gears. Cut one down to be spindles with welded in nuts. Other set gets turned into a slip over cog that has slotted spaces for the bolts. Figure out how to index them so you know just how far off centerline you adjust.
Should be doable cheaply uf you have access to a lathe.
Ill sit the tool with the pile of stuff to bring you.
Will not make it this weekend. Forgot its easter, and I don't want my wife to castrate me.
Dusterbd13 wrote: Get a spare set of gears. Cut one down to be spindles with welded in nuts. Other set gets turned into a slip over cog that has slotted spaces for the bolts. Figure out how to index them so you know just how far off centerline you adjust. Should be doable cheaply uf you have access to a lathe.
I looked at ideas like that. I am not really wanting to lean on my machinist neighbor quite that hard. I am actually thinking I can take a cue from work and create an offset woodruff key instead. I can make a few and get pretty close.
tuna55 wrote:Dusterbd13 wrote: Get a spare set of gears. Cut one down to be spindles with welded in nuts. Other set gets turned into a slip over cog that has slotted spaces for the bolts. Figure out how to index them so you know just how far off centerline you adjust. Should be doable cheaply uf you have access to a lathe.I looked at ideas like that. I am not really wanting to lean on my machinist neighbor quite that hard. I am actually thinking I can take a cue from work and create an offset woodruff key instead. I can make a few and get pretty close.
Well crap apparently offset woodruff keys are a real off-the-shelf thing. I'll do that then.
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