3/4 Race - Lazarus FFR Coupe

In reply to preach (dudeist priest) :

The Daytona I put in the pictures used an American Autowire loom!  I've seen a lot of the various aftermarket kits installed that poorly, and then spliced and repaired as time went on. I think neatness counts big time with wiring and that's the responsibility of the builder. I wrote a story for the print version of GRM detailing redoing that Daytona and there will be some follow-up stories with additional tips for successful (and neat) wiring. I hope those stories will be helpful to others.

Gumby, I forgot to mention that the Daytona we work on is at least 15 years old, so I sense it's a fairly early generation.  I can find the SN and PM it to you if that's helpful.

In reply to Carl Heideman :

Nah, no need to be that specific. Just making sure I am not unknowingly harvesting gen3 info as they are a spaceframe chassis and share little with the earlier versions.

Lazarus is a gen1 with a gen2 front frame clip and clamshell; getting close to 20yrs old at this point. I have to temper my frustrations with knowing that 20yrs ago I hadn't even picked up a welding torch...

This is my favorite crimping tool: 

Finally finished pulling the last bit of floor on the driver's side so I can plan out seat mounting.

There is alot of structure right where I want to lower my ass, which is not cool.

After much playing around with the seat I want to use, and various sliders I have available, I think I have a workable solution without hacking the chassis completely apart

Main goals here are getting lower while also easing ingress/egress.

I didnt realize the 4" tube went THERE.  I assumed they were offset inside the tunnel wall so the seat was beside it not on it. 

I like the seats though.  Match the look of the car nicely.

In reply to nocones :

I had similar thoughts. I was aware the floor was on top of 4" rail, and I would likely need to section it for seat clearance. This is more under the seat than I bargained for. Also, sitting right over the double box section was not anticipated at all.

I am not about re-engineering this entire chassis...

I have mostly come to terms with the fact that I must completely strip this down, replumb and rewire it. Too many zip-ties and Tek screws...so, more disassembly!

I started chasing wires from the rear of the car toward the cockpit today, and got the fuel cell out. The can is beat up, but salvageable. The bladder is from 2006, which wasn't at all surprising.

Then I futz'd with the watts linkages a bit. Almost all the jamb nuts were, not tight. Some had backed significantly away from their locked positions. The center bellcrank bolt was also loose, and the top link was so long the bracket had been contacting the upper crossmember on the chassis

With that adjusted, I tried to get the axle centered.

Much closer, but still needs another ¼" or so. I'll hafta shorten the left link, and build a longer right link. Or, cut the right mount off the chassis and move it inboard... More research on watts links with offset bellcranks required.

Really enjoying seeing this.  I have thought about a FFR car quite a bit.  

<Unsolicited Crazy Idea> I wonder how hard it'd be to hack that rear end out and put something like a C5/C6 Vette rear crade in there.. </UCI>

In reply to gumby :

What do you prefer over p-clamps? 

In reply to maschinenbau :

That should have said zip-ties, I fixed it.

P-clamps have a place, but I prefer to add welded anchors on the chassis where possible. I really like the bolted clamps you made for the hot rod too. Cable runs like Binky are great for wires.

The current fuel plumbing is braided for the whole length of the run. I'll have hard line with flex on each end. Bulkhead tabs to secure the ends of hard lines and transition to flex for both fuel and brakes. T-nuts will replace most of the Tek screws.

Wait, just had a thought, is it possible the two horizontal links for the watts are flipped? Ie left installed on right? 

If they aren't exactly the same length maybe that's the issue with centering the axle?

Current links are both 8" long.

I looked up the replacement bladder and found a $1000 price tag which lead to a long think about putting a stock tank in the car.
Since this project isn't constrained by any sanctioning body, and the internal foam is in good condition, I decided to test for leaks before giving up.

The seams stayed dry and the pump, pumps. After getting all the test water out, I straightened up the dented can and stuffed the bladder back in. It should be good to go once I build a better cage to hold it in place.

Glad to hear the bladder is ok, I really like the side fill in those tanks but couldn't justify the cost for my build.

Man, I'm happy you ended up with this car vs me.  I don't have the skill set to handle everything you've found.  I'm following this with extreme interest and can't wait to see what you do with it.

Ok, the passenger floor suuuuucked to get out. The large gnawed up hole is from the driveshaft during the crash.

And then

I get stuck sometimes. Often, once I get far enough along to know the path forward on a project, I lose interest. I have been not really enthusiastic about working on this car recently, and a large chunk of that was the path forward not being what I truly want the car to be. I was fixated on not "ruining" the car, or hurting potential value, and I don't operate well in that mindset.

A thing was presented to me this week which tossed all that out the window and reinvigorated my want for this car to be mine. To let go of the what if's, and move forward making it what I want it to be.

I bought the thing.
It was delivered Wednesday evening.
Last night, I couldn't resist plugging it in the hole to see if it was anywhere close to actually fitting.



It's just set on some furniture dollies, but this was enough to sink in the reality. I own a Barra. I'm gonna put it in a car that many folks believe should be built a certain way. This is gonna be fantastic, and terrible, but mostly great!

Since I ended up with a propane engine, it's got the better rods which will be happier under the pressure of compressed atmospheres. Plus, the cam cover is the gumby-est shade of green I have ever seen. It stays green. Forever.

Love it!

That is a bold and wonderful decision.

That looks like a perfect fit. I love a good 6. 

YES! Amazing news! Make this build your own. Some of us get satisfaction from having the shiny completed product, some of us just love building. You know who you are.

First thing I thought on the first page, was that this car NEEDED a straight six.

What shade of green is that? 

Very cool! 

I wouldn't give a second thought to not building this in a traditional fashion.  It's not rare or special.  And whatever makes you passionate is the right direction.

Questions on the engine:

Did you get it imported from Australia?  It's only that market, right?

What's it weigh?

Are you going to fab up your own turbo system or buy it?

What transmission are you thinking of using?

I was following this build because it's a cool car.  I mean they are cool in a "you don't see them that often" kinda way.  But, being a fabricated car, the always left me a little cold.  

Trying to reproduce the history of the originals seems like a fools errand......

.....and then a wild Barra enters the room!

He'll yes!  This is the spice that this beast needed!  

You son of a bitch, I'm in!

TVR Scott said:

Very cool! 

I wouldn't give a second thought to not building this in a traditional fashion.  It's not rare or special.  And whatever makes you passionate is the right direction.

Questions on the engine:

Did you get it imported from Australia?  It's only that market, right?

What's it weigh?

Are you going to fab up your own turbo system or buy it?

What transmission are you thinking of using?

took the words right outa my  mouf

Along for the ride also....really interested in the seat re-do......and does the PS motor mount almost line up?