Ha- yeah, I'll get on that. Not sure if the MC shocks will be damaged if they are used as droop limiters- I've heard of shocks getting messed up if they "top out", but the MC shocks are set with a huge preload, so maybe they won't be a big deal.
Ha- yeah, I'll get on that. Not sure if the MC shocks will be damaged if they are used as droop limiters- I've heard of shocks getting messed up if they "top out", but the MC shocks are set with a huge preload, so maybe they won't be a big deal.
In reply to Teh E36 M3 :
Mine are the droop limit on the MG. It's fine. You will want to remove preload. Before I did on the MG it drove not great whenever it encountered bumps. After it is much more predictable. I know FF will run no droop successfully and I could likely have tuned it out for track use. But for mixed street use it's a good idea.
I'll have to look at how I did it. I can't remember but I know if was easy and didn't require much effort. I used zip ties to get the springs off. I have to do it again for the 360 so I will be able to report back.
My GSXR shocks actually have a threaded spring mount so I can set them up with zero preload pretty easily. Springs are 7.5" long with 2.25 ID, so I think I could use 7" 2.25 eibachs if I need to adjust rates.
Another day of "adjusting" the upper rear mount points. Good night I have to move on- I've never been accused of being a perfectionist, and I don't know why I'm being so pedantic about this thing, but I'm trying to get it right. Lots of in/out, in/out.
Tomorrow I think I will actually be ready to finish weld it all after one last look at ensuring wheels are on centerline fore and aft. The rest I think I've got pretty nailed- a few gussets here and there.
Then it is shock actuation and mounting. It's going to be more complicated than I want it to be, but it will be done.
Also, I'm learning that making *everything* adjustable can complicate things drastically. I recognize and appreciate the simplicity of a slot-adjustable lower a-arm, everything else be damned (and is fixed). Still trying to find a bolt-in solution for the rear upper bushing- I'd like to make that a balljoint to eliminate bind.
Cut all the gussets for the a arms. Drilled all the speed holes. Which was a surprising pain in the ass. Ran out of mug wire 2/3 of the way through finish welding the frame. I'm too impatient to tig it all. Using a wandering sequence to try to keep heat deformation to a minimum.
so, out for a few days for work and back to finish welding.
Those are so pretty.
We are getting there. This "work" business really gets in the way of progress. Back in training. Good news: I'm going back to the 777, so United must be pretty optimistic even with 50 of them parked for blade inspections.
I digress. The minor progress now is getting the rear suspension bench-aligned and in the car. I'm going to send off my axles to Dutchman tomorrow and see what they can do to match the inner Rx-8 with the outer NA miata. That's about it, really. I've taken CV joints apart before, but man, you never really remember how messy they are. Next is figuring out how to get my pushrod through into the trunk to actuate the rear shocks. I have an idea but it is going to be a pain in the ass.
Anyone got a line on CV boots- the OEM kind, not the split BS replacement stuff. Also, grease recommendations?
In reply to Teh E36 M3 :
I would be curious as to the pricing for a custom axle from Dutchman. I have just started a project that will require shortening the track on a Honda Civic by 3" and the options are to roll my own axle shortening or get them made by Dutchman.
Pete
They have a price list online- it seems very reasonable to the point where I'm almost suspicious, but another on this forum has used them with success, so I'm going for it. I'll keep you updated.
Teh E36 M3 said:They have a price list online- it seems very reasonable to the point where I'm almost suspicious, but another on this forum has used them with success, so I'm going for it. I'll keep you updated.
Please!
Their prices loom too good to be true, honestly. If accurate, seems like the easy button to miata diff swaps.
Ok- well their prices are not exactly what I would have guessed from the worksheet, but they have very good customer service- for a pair of fully custom, fully new axles, including shipping, they want $628. I'd wager though, if I worked through their numbers I would understand better. Look- I'm comfortable with it. Brand new custom axles there is no way it takes less than 4 hours- you've got a skilled (right?) machinist, hy-tuff (?) material, heat treating etc. And this particular axle pairing has vastly different inner and outer spline sizes- like 1" vs 1.375". So I pulled the trigger- will update with how they look when I get them back in a few days.
To pair them up, I ordered new boots and grease for all. I am excite.
On the last Midget- I just had to shorten the stock 1.8 axles, which was vastly easier, but still a huge pain in the ass to spline those bastards- they must use some seriously hard steel. Might should have stuck with 1.8 diff and spindles to keep it simple, but that $250 Rx-8 diff in 4.44 and allegedly with LSD was too much to resist. Still unsure if it's an actual LSD (has a pin for spider gears, so not sure what that means).
A little progress. Got the rear shock and linkage mocked up. May have to adjust the pushrod point a little inboard but so far, a lot of brackets. I am not a fan of making brackets.
That's going to be quite progressive, unless the angles are not what the pictures appear. It will be interesting to see where you end up. Do you have your MR math handy?
Yeah man- that's just the mock up- just a little more than full droop. Ride height, the pushrod end will be about 1 3/8 higher. Motion ratio is .84 as calculated. The springs are apparently about 650lb/in. If I go 2:1 it's going to be a bit stiff. But 2.25 or so makes it pretty kosher as far as I can calculate. That's why all the holes on the shock side. Working with 2 5/8 travel is interesting, but it seems like it will actually work assuming the numbers I'm getting are correct.
Thanks to Brunton website for the spreadsheet.
Also Vsusp
Also these are placeholders in case I lose them!
Damn. I was optimistic about getting it on the ground today. But at least another day on that. Got drivers side knocked up. So limiting travel was the parcel shelf. Also the lateral travel of the pushrod. Also.... who the berkeley knows.
Also, something is screwed up in my calcs because this E36 M3 is seriously soft. So I will revisit. Fun!!!
finally did what I should have done far earlier- just kill the parcel shelf. I'll make a little 1" square subframe to reinforce the area and do a nutsert panel to make adjusting the whole thing a little easier.
It's on the berkeleying ground!!!!!
I regret that I have but 1 thumb up to give.
Dude I just want to do sweet jumps and burnouts now. It's so berkeleying cool. 
Hell Yeah!
Result!
Awesome project!
How are the spring rates feeling now that you can jump on the car like a little child?
Hahaha. Which I definitely am. They are stiff, but I think they will actually work well as a starting point.
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