The task today was to free up the rear brake that was dragging. I took the drum off, cleaned everything and readjusted it so now it rolls freely.
The task today was to free up the rear brake that was dragging. I took the drum off, cleaned everything and readjusted it so now it rolls freely.
Does anyone know how the air filter housing bolts on? I fit it over the studs but they don't reach all the way to the top.
Did you tow it home with the Miata?
Nice score! Now we need to get Miles' Mini on the road again and we can give you your own RallyCross class.
I passed through the land which is ashy today but had no time to spare. I was thinking about you or more importantly, your mini. Some time soon and with better weather...I want a ride!
I had a second interview in Columbus today so I was out of town most of the day. I'll let you know when I get it running.
Terrible cell-phone pictures of the airbox showing the mounting studs...any ideas how it is supposed to attach?
I DO have a Mini, yes including some front disc brakes and matching 12" Minilite wheels that I need to make go away badly. Drop me a line if you want to help me get them out of my garage.
GB Car Parts is my go-to spot for parts. And mine has a HIF44 carb, so it looks different than yours.
If the top just clips on that would make sense.I figured that since it had holes in it the studs were supposed to go through.
Minilites are tempting but I want to stick with 10s.
From that diagram or looks like I am missing the long wing nut...or it is hidden somewhere in the car and I haven't looked hard enough.
EvanB wrote: Sure is.
Cute! You may know already but I have found Marvel Mystery oil works well as the oil in the pots on SU's.
Got a new battery in today and it cranks over great but no spark. The pertronix won't be here until late next week so I'll probably replace the points and condenser tomorrow and see if I can get it to fire.
In reply to EvanB:
You need two wing nuts for that air filter housing. The lid should have two holes. One situated over the stud and the other over that stand-off over the air inlet.
What DeadSkunk said. Your air cleaner looks just like mine. I have two long wingnuts that go all the way through the box and hold the top on.
Where did you get the idea to tow it with your MX-5? :P
Still trying to get it started. The plugs are wet with fuel and starting fluid/gas down the carb elbow don't help. I have verified that all the plugs are sparking. The only thing I can think of left to do is check the static timing but I don't know how that would change if it has just been sitting.
Fuel, spark, compression, and timing. You need all four of these.
Are you playing with new plugs or the old wet ones that may be flashing across the porcelain when under cylinder pressure?
How GOOD is the spark? We want big fat arcs here. Do you have a dwell meter so you can check the points? I think I still have one, somewhere...
Is the fuel an actual, flammable liquid, or is it "fuel"? Note: I found out this winter, for example, that C16 is not very flammable below about 30 degrees, and even trying to assist with starting fluid or carb cleaner doesn't do anything but make the engine backfire through the intake.
Compression and timing, you're on your own there, although I will point out that the Sentra that I used to have had a habit of losing compression if it sat for over a month. Once running, it would come back, but trying to start it was a bitch. First time it happened, I thought the timing chain had snapped.
New plugs, wires, points, condenser, cap/rotor. Very good spark. The fuel doesn't look too bad, it isn't trying to fire at all, no sputtering.
I'll have to pull the #1 plug and make sure the rotor is pointing to the right place. After that I'll check the static timing to make sure it is close.
Haven't checked the compression yet.
No chance they are reversed, I triple-checked. There is a good possibility it isn't sparking at the right time but I never thought of checking where the rotor is pointing when #1 is at TDC.
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