In reply to Samebutdifferent :
Once I get going heavy into the Scout I'll document and post, lightly into this now
In reply to Samebutdifferent :
Once I get going heavy into the Scout I'll document and post, lightly into this now
Got SLGGR on the dyno yesterday. Made 347HP and 345 torque at 9.5psi, turned up the boost to 12 and made 390/385. Then, as is all too common I hear, I let the ego take over and wanted to be able to say I made 400 so I gave the waste gate another half turn but in doing so something happened and I misaligned the internal wastegate shaft. Made a partial run and something was off, settled in for a another run and in a fraction of a second the boost went WAY over 20 psi and I turned the J35 into a grenade and left oil and chunks of aluminum all over the place. Happened so fast and it turns out, somehow, boost protection got turned off. Watched the line on the fuel graph go WAY beyond expected and just didn't have time to back out of the go pedal. Got another used motor coming because I've got the Minimeet coming and hope to have it in this weekend. Realign the turbo wastegate, turn boost protection ON, hook up the EBC controls, keep everything at 10psi or under and just be happy for a while at 347ish HP....not like that's bad considering my single solitary goal for this whole turbo stuff was to break 300HP. Have a second used motor that I'm getting delivered that I'll take some time and refresh everything, maybe rods and piston sleeves and pistons.....strangely difficult finding engine builders willing to build Honda J series motors.
Ahhhh. That sucks. Sorry to hear that man. Hopefully the next engine fares better.
Well, you can now say thztthata j series will not take 20+psi of boost. If you go through enough of them, you can find the safe upper limit!
Kind of the way i know a non magnum mopar 318 is only good to a 100 shot of nitrous.
yeah, 10psi seems good to go, ran it that way for a bit no issues. Been trying to find a guy to build a J35 for me to handle boost better, tells me that these 100,xxx + used motors are perfect being that the rings are already seated, things are looser and as long as I keep boost to 9-10 I should be good. So....just got in a 133K mile motor for $400 and have a 109,xxx mile motor incoming for less. Think I'll be into two used minivan motors for under $600. Fantastic. Keep it reasonable, be OK with 350 HP to the wheel and I should be good for a stretch. Good grief, it's not like 330-350HP in a car that weighs 2300 with me in it ought to be acceptable.
talking with Jesse at the dyno we were going over what happened and I'm sure now that the whole blown motor was just a series of mistakes, all mine. One....somehow I turned boost control off in the ECU. Two.....when I went to make the wastegate adjustment on the actuator arm I did it while it was hot and in securing the adjustment nuts I tweaked the arm as it was just hot enough to bend out of alignment which no longer allowed the wastegate to open under load. Jesse told me that the weird run right before the final explosion run I spun the tires bad on the wheel and he was sure we made over 500HP. Good grief, if it spun on the dyno there's NO way I'll have the tire to keep her straight and manageable on the road or track at those numbers unless I figure out a way to get a LOT more tire under this car. Biggest I've found for 13" wheels is a 255/40....I don't think that'd cut it. Any bigger than that and I'll be making some bizarre fender flares to cover the meats. My buddy started educating me on the EBC valve and how we can tune where the power gets delivered though so once I get the next motor built with the incoming rods that are supposed to handle 1000HP and all the boost I want to throw at it we'll start playing with making 500+ in the higher revs and limit the torque in the mid range.....should keep the tires under me still able to grab. Have the EBC on a switch now that gives me close to 10PSI when on and when off I have a safe and respectable 7-8PSI. Be nice to figure out how to get the ECU to read the VSS, which I've been enable to accomplish, so I could set boost per gear. With the preload turned up on the new low boost can it holds the boost better than with the medium boost can and minimal preload like I had before. Had a lot of boost droop when VTEC kicked in with the medium boost can. THis low boost can holds steady and when the EBC valve is switched on that delayed onset and keeping the wastegate closed longer makes for some impressive kick. These EFR turbos are pretty amazing with how little lag they have.
Side note looking for opinions. I consistently am told that J35 pistons, assuming that you're not getting into detonation, are good to 600HP. Not sure what I think about forged pistons and how necessary they are.....can anyone talk me into or out of them for my middle of the road HP end goals? I'm currently more inclined to put in a set of factory pistons that are thermally coated than a forged piston.
So maybe I'm silly, but why not just set the boost limit to cap at ~400hp? Sounds like you could keep the stock pistons then, not have quite the traction issue as 500hp, and likely have longer engine longevity.
VTEC advances the timing of the intake cam at higher RPM so the normally aspirated intake air being sucked in doesn't arrive late to the party as the engine speed climbs. If I understand correctly, in layman's terms, the intake valves start to open before the exhaust valves are fully closed, and this creates a scavenging effect further helping air into the head. Point is, there is overlap, and under boost, you are now blowing part of your pressurized air out the exhaust port. For that reason, I don't think VTEC and boost play well together. Heck it might even spoof your O2 sensor into thinking you are going lean.
Does that sound right?
Curious,
Brian
In reply to AWSX1686 :
Actually what I’ll probably do, can get that at a safe 13 psi....heck, I could probably do that for a while with stock rods.
In reply to SLGGR :
I mean, that makes more sense to me. Still plenty of power, but with not having to "build" then engine: 1, it should be a more reliable power number, and 2, if you do blow it up, another cheap engine is a relatively easy swap in, no crazy expensive parts necessary.
In reply to SLGGR :
SLGGR, I am located in Des Moines, Iowa. I am getting ready to do nearly the same build as you except with a k20. Would like to discuss your experience a bit with the conversion. I have been in contact with BJ at superfast minis already. I am working with a 1984 Mini Saloon. Is there anyway we can connect to talk a bit?
Very interested in your build, I have a few questions as I haven't talked with the mini tec guys yet. Converting an 87 to the midi setup. J32a2 planning on running stock internals. Did it come with cv axles? Mini hubs or honda? What wheel size did you go with? I'm planning on 13x9 with 5 inches of backspace. Doing same willwood brakes as yours. Would you recommend using the ecu from the honda(I have) or standalone (would need)? Where did you get your front subframe? Did you use the honda fuel pump? Sorry for the barrage of questions. How to hear back soon!
"If I don't break 300HP this time I'm going to swallow my head."
I've done that on quite a few occasions . . .
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