'75 TVR M Ford 331ci V8

What is the story on the valve cover risers? Off the shelf or custom made? What ratio are your roller rockers? 

Slow_M said:

 

It's home to a fairly voluminous dry sump tank. 

Is that a dixie horn setup?  LOL

that must be a really fun car to play with. 

In reply to anger_enginering :

They're cast Ansen off the shelf pieces*, housing 1.6:1 ratio Miller Engineering roller rockers. 

*They're slated to be modified by the addition of spring oiler jets/squirters in the near future. 

In reply to Apexcarver :

It's been forever since I've driven it, so my context, as far as "playing with it" is concerned, is limited to making or modifying virtually every part that's bolted to it. After a couple of decades of that, I'm ready to drive it again. 

I just spotted this and will follow. I have considerable experience with small diameter clutches in formula and Can Am cars. I despise the internal throw out bearing's lack of serviceability less than I despise walking home when the throw out lever bends/breaks. You really need an internal bearing with any small diameter clutch with enough bite for this application. See if you can make the gearbox removeable from below with removeable crossmembers if needed, the internal slaves fail too, but a lot less frequently than the levers did on the original set-ups on F 5000 and Can-Am.

TurnerX19 said:

I just spotted this and will follow. I have considerable experience with small diameter clutches in formula and Can Am cars. I despise the internal throw out bearing's lack of serviceability less than I despise walking home when the throw out lever bends/breaks. You really need an internal bearing with any small diameter clutch with enough bite for this application. See if you can make the gearbox removeable from below with removeable crossmembers if needed, the internal slaves fail too, but a lot less frequently than the levers did on the original set-ups on F 5000 and Can-Am.

Thanks for sharing your experience and your depth of knowledge! 

Maybe I should box in the c channel design pressed clutch fork. 

Yeah, the transmissions in the M are natively removable with the engine in place. The crossmember under the transmission mount is a bolt in piece. 

The ones you mentioned are my main reasons for disliking internal hydraulic throw out bearings too. Plus that I can adjust this setup from a couple of places. The idea of shimming for adjustment irrationally irritates the daylights out of me. Besides, when my friend used to sell these, he routinely threw the ones they came with in the trash, so I'll always be a little biased. 

Box it and add as much wall thickness as you can at the pivot too. If you can put the pivot beyond the bearing you can lower the load as well , but that usually is an original design decision that is hard to alter.   Volvos built that way bend the lever at the bearing if you upgrade the pressure plate and there is nowhere to ad material, all the space is occupied. Solution, internal slave Thing is you have to drop the box to fix the lever too. 

Chop chop! 

(This is the status quo, as of last night, so accessing the fork won't be an issue.)

The following are images of a chassis reportedly modified by Bill Jongbloed, who some of you may know because of his lightweight racing wheels. I'll follow those with two photos of his own V8 powered car. 

Once I know exactly where the starter has to go, my plan is to replicate much of the added triangulation these photos show. 

(I forgot that I had these on file, until I was working on my to do list, last night, which prominently featured "determine added triangulation.")

Starter doesn't come in any other configurations. Two ways to clock it. One fouls the right side bottom main tube. The other one works. Barely. 

On the good news front, all of that clearancing on the gearbox housing must make it a little lighter. 

The starter; more pictures? I have a feeling that you could remove the solenoid and remote mount it, but im not positive. It depends on how the heavy lead goes from the solenoid to the windings. 

Are you using the mini starter?

https://lmr.com/item/LRS-11002B/92-95-Mustang-50L-Pmgr-Style-Replacement-Starter

The starter is specifically designed to be part of a reduced diameter bellhousing kit, which uses a very compact flywheel and ring gear combo. 

To engage with the ring gear, it's a reverse mount (therefore also reverse rotation). 

The daily refuses to start, robbing me of the opportunity to get some welding done. 

Took the time to give a couple of parts a much needed cleaning. 

The fresh half stack of scavenge stage makes me wonder the history of this pump. Do you know it?

In reply to TurnerX19 :

If I can trust my noodle, some kind of NASCAR, but I bought it eons ago. Once I'm done with the mechanical build, it's going to visit someone else for plumbing. Evaluating the condition of the pump is the first item on their list. If need be, it can go back to Barnes, for a rebuild. 

There are zero mysteries or magic in that pump. Open it yourself.

In reply to TurnerX19 :

Dropped it off to Barnes Systems. They evaluate their own (used) products for free. 

Turns out that they're only 25 minutes from where I live. 

Right side frame mods done. 

In reply to Slow_M :

What is behind the TVR chassis. Looks like a P1800? Next in line for project?

Love the CCW classics, such a "classic" wheel lol

Apexcarver said:

Is that a dixie horn setup?  LOL

Hell yes! Either that or La Cucaracha. It has interchangeable perforated rotating discs that determine what tune it plays, by distributing air to different tubes. 

I added that horn setup when I realized that I was being an idiot about cutting the extra threads off every fastener I added to the car and being totally obsessed with weight loss. 

In reply to NOHOME :

The P1800 is someone else's project. When I'm done with the TVR, my next project is to finish my cafe racer. 

In reply to fouckhest :

This project is so long in the tooth, that when I bought these, they were just called the CCW wheel.