This started as a stock MGB, and has morphed into what you see. I am not great at writeups, I dont photograph enough as I work on projects but here are some pics and specs. The engine and transmission were out of a $200 low miles S10. Front suspension is a modified stock suspension to use coil overs and tweeked to help the suspension geometry in corners. <img src="
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The engine, starting in the S10 to installed in the car with custom motor mounts, headers and a 4 barrel Holley<img <img src="
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The Front Spliter as we mocked it up
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And the car painted, still at the point of doing a lot of chassis tuning. For how light it is the 4.3 has more power than I can put down on any autocross. Installed a brake proportioning valve and there is a seep in the fuel tank so before we run it again it will have a 8 gallon fuel cell in the rear.
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All in all it probably seems like a mild build but it will change each off-season. As I start to find the limits of the car I will slowly upgrade it, starting possibly with a 3 bar suspension in the rear this winter, more serious rubber and as I can handle that a more suitable engine.
Interesting build. keep up the great work
I love what your doing, but I'ma stop you right there. Looscannon has the greatest EM MGB build thread of ALL TIME. https://grassrootsmotorsports.com/forum/grm/scca-emod-mgb-gt-v12-build/26822/page1/
(Just messing, wanted to be sure in case you didnt know about it)
What tires are you running? I am surprised that you are having trouble putting power down. How much power?
Been helping Gimpy with his CP build off and on for a few years. https://grassrootsmotorsports.com/forum/build-projects-and-project-cars/1981-camaro-c-prepared-build/59501/page1/
It sticks to me that at that level you have to really cram a lot of the best of tire underneath it. If you dont want to run mega-price rubber, you might look into American Racer tires, but you have to look at size availability and figure it out. They tend to be a tick slower than A6ish without as crisp a feel reportedly, but at half the price. (Bias Ply fully racing tires) That being said, I have only read on them and have no direct experience.
That car looks like a lot of fun.
MGBs without fender flares are fairly limited on the tire width that you can squeeze under the arches, particularly the rear. I imagine you'll eventually want to change that.
Trying to figure out what the top of the coil-over ties into?
And the bulb just came on...E Mod would be the same class as this car being built by another poster on this board.
In reply to Apexcarver:
I have seen that build, its so cool. As for tires, at the moment I have 4 year old 205 50 r15 Bf Goodrich Rivals that are getting increasingly hard, although I scored some used spec miata tires for the season. I had the Rivals on a STF Fiesta that I ran before I decided it wasn't the most thrilling car to run. I plan on bigger tires down the road, but I will admit that I feel the car is at the edge of my current talent level.
In reply to JoeTR6:
Thats a plan down the road, right now with the arches cut out I have 205 50 r15s in it.
I built a rear spoiler for the car out of sheet aluminum. It is designed as such that I can remove a few bolts and still open the trunk to add fuel as it now has an 8 gallon fuel cell instead of the gas tank.
This is the car ready for races last weekend. I have to remove the front splitter to get it on and off a trailer. Made some ducting around the radiator to force more air through the radiator and on a day in the mid 90s it ran fairly cool. Running about a quarter inch of toe the car was fairly neutral and with the addition of a brake proportioning valve I was able to get the brake bias locked in. With new (used mazda spec series Toyos) the car is finally close to being competitive in its class against cars running even better tires.
With the car running handling well on decent tires I noticed a couple issues I may need to address.
1. Excessive sway, the car still handles but in one hard corner I hit a bump and it was enough to make one of the tires contact the fender. With a grinder we removed the spot but I think when I wear these out I want to go to a much larger tire and with much more cornering force I will need to address the sway. I might add a front sway bar and add one leaf to each side on the rear.
2. I turn the steering wheel a lot more than I feel like I should have to, I though the ratio would be fine but I think I need a steering quickener as there were a couple places on course that my biggest limitation was I couldn't hand over hand the steering wheel fast enough to navigate them faster.
3. The open differential is now starting to slow me down coming out of corners. It was not uncommon to spin the inside tire 50-100 feet if I hammered it too soon. I am thinking of getting a Quaife Helical LSD for the MGB. Anyone have any insight into this problem. 
I'm the nut who built that other EMod MGB and I like what you're doing. What is the plan? Only running locally or coming to Nationals some day? Start at the beginning of my thread and read all the way through, I'm sure it will help you decide where to go with yours. I posted many of the mistakes I made so others could learn from them. Looking forward to updates.
In reply to loosecannon:
Thanks, I have read through the thread before, although it seems like each time I revisit the car looks completely different. Right now my plans are to start local and grow with the car. I might have to reread your thread again because I am thinking of making a few changes and might get some information.
In reply to MGS10:
Yup, mistakes were made and they had to be corrected or I would be dead last, like the first time I took the car to Nationals. Shoot, I couldn't even beat Stock class S2000's at local events when I first finished it. Just today I re-made the Panhard bar mounts to get roll center in the proper range and I chopped 10 lbs off the unsprung weight. The car is at it's best right now so if you don't have time to read the hows and whys of all the changes, just go to the last page.
In reply to loosecannon:
I just went through the whole thread in a couple days of free time. Its quite the build and inspiring and I think a lot of what I picked up has to do with tuning the handling. The last I checked in was when I was rendering my front suspension and I believe you still had the 5.0 Ford in your car. Like your car I think mine will be an evolution with each Montana winter bringing more changes but I am after some of the low hanging fruit for the season. I think my next changes are a front sway bar, increased spring rate in the rear, a steering quickener and taking some aluminum sheet metal and making some new doors. I think I can tackle those few things before the next autocross. I was wondering, what did you use for your electric power steering, I have seen that a few people get them out of a Saturn Vue and buy a harness and rheostat switch from eBay. I might do that if my steering effort is to high, right now I think the fact that I have to move my hands to navigate almost every corner on the course is a more pressing issue.
MGS10 wrote: 3. The open differential is now starting to slow me down coming out of corners. It was not uncommon to spin the inside tire 50-100 feet if I hammered it too soon. I am thinking of getting a Quaife Helical LSD for the MGB. Anyone have any insight into this problem.
Quaife LSDs are fine if you can keep both wheels on the ground. They stop being effective once the inside tire lifts. If you can't tune the suspension to avoid lifting the rear, you need a clutch-type LSD, not a torque biasing LSD. Adding a front sway bar may help with the rear lift issue and make it tend towards understeer.
In reply to JoeTR6:
I agree with you in regards to adding a front sway bar making the car tend toward understeer. When We build the car my dad and I removed one of the rear leafs in the rear and I think I will accompany the addition of a sway bar with adding a leaf back in the rear.
In reply to MGS10:
The electric power steering is a 220W system from SuperATV and it works great. I see they make a 380W system now but I don't think it's necessary. http://www.superatv.com/UNIVERSAL-Kits-C1039.aspx
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=p0MLgWR_qGk
Video of a run from last weekend. The more I look at this the more I realize that I am having to turn the wheel way too much to get around the course. A steering quickener and electric power steering will be going on the car before the next event.
It has been brought up by a few people at events that my shifter is quite long and I noticed 3rd gear is a bit of a reach so I gave in and built a shorter shifter for it. I also put the car on a diet and took over fifty pounds out of the doors.
Everything I cut out of both doors.
The test fit
Some day you will have to install the Spridgetech body on your car, it takes a lot of weight off and allows wider tires to be run-and it looks great. Keep your doors, though, they don't make fiberglass doors.
In reply to loosecannon:
I agree. I thought about making aluminum ones, but I didn't want to try and get the same crease in them the factory has and the small difference it makes wouldn't have been worth it on a car that's about 2260 pounds with driver. I have been seeing a few 4 cylinders on craigslist that might be fun to put close to where the passengers seat is like you have but I don't fully understand the rules around the tub. Does your car run in modified tub? This is all hypothetical stuff for if I can ever amass the parts to do something like that.
In reply to MGS10:
I built my doors out of aluminum and made a clamp out of steel tubing and flat bar. Watch this video to see how: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wKBzc9h0v1k I am running modified tub and take the weight penalty. You actually get to run even lighter because you have stock tub and I assume you have more than 51% weight on your front tires.
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