Had to clean up the bay tonight since my brackets aren't in yet. My car is dirtier then it's ever been but it's getting close
Had to clean up the bay tonight since my brackets aren't in yet. My car is dirtier then it's ever been but it's getting close
Brackets! After the sexy polished aluminum alt and power steering brackets I ordered from summit wouldn't fit someone much smarter then me helped me peice together something out of 3 different sets of brackets.
have to buy some spacers instead of the stacked nuts but it fits and lines up. In the two steps back category that's plagued this build the car tryed to spit out the number 2 plug. Machinist friend is going to do the fix in car for me.
get the plug hole fixed, put the passenger header back on and run heater hoses is the final big steps. Tailpipes still need built but that's above my skill level.
Boring update and more for my memory then anything. Power steering belt is 35 inches, alternator side is 41. Ended up with another bracket to on the power steering too stop flex. New alternator is on and spark plugs are all in thanks to my buddy Zach fixing the hole on the car.
ended up having to space the pulley out on the water pump so can't run a mechanical fan. Luckily my friends dad hordes things from junkyards so we found an electric fan that fits it pretty well.
exhaust is going too look strange but hopefully be driving the car home Saturday!
Alternator final mounted with a belt, and the exciting detail is the electric fan is on. 94 dodge caravan 3 speed fan. Running it on the middle speed too start. Yes I put the tiny i6 shroud/flap back on.
well I drove it home tonight, shifter still isn't right but it seems to drive fine otherwise. It makes the proper sounds and cruises down the road in drive. Now if we can just figure out this damned shifter I'll be happy
Congrats! 
20 mile shakedown run today, other then learning that a 66 c4 doesn't use first gear in drive1 it cruises great. If I can't figure out how to make the column shifter work all 7 detents this weekend I'll likely cave in and floor shift it.
This is how long my passenger side tailpipe is because it had to come out the driver side. Wagons don't have room for a tailpipe on the passenger side.
Then switches make everything faster right! Red is an energizer circuit for a fast idle set up since I'm missing the dash pot and blue is fan, fan is also key on and off with a relay but this gives me the ability to kill it while the car warms up. Last 2 small photos from during the swap. Now I can clean out my phone!
exhaust routing since I had access too the pit at my old employers. It's nice too leave on good terms.
other then finding a small fuel leak the first oil change everything looked good. Had a quart of atf in the oil too clean things up so only put 20 miles on it and a few heat cycles as we worked on it.
So when is the burnout video happening? :)
I like the dual pipes on one side. Looking good.
In reply to crankwalk (Forum Supporter) :
I have 2 already I just haven't made a YouTube to upload them too. It was doing burnouts before I figured out the weird shifter pattern. Nothing like starting burnouts in second.
Because I have a thing for stickers, and a heavy foot
the better videos are Facebook uploads that aren't from my phone! This was starting in second before figuring out the weird shift pattern
Can't drive for 24 hours and the fentanyl they used to put me under this morning is hiding the nerve pain so I made the beat up old moroso air cleaner work
Love the sticker.
So did a 100 mile round trip today full of fun. Before I left I swapped too a 160 degree thermostat because the car was cruising around 195. Going too a cooler thermostat actually started to cause overheating problems. Several pit stops to keep it cool, checking timing and changing the fueling at transition didn't help.
got too my dads and pulled the new thermostat, put it back together without one just to attempt to get it home and happened to notice it's collapsing the new lower radiator hose around 2400 rpm. That happens to be what it cruises 60mph at.
so going to try to find a spring for the lower hose, throw a new cap on it and hope for the best. Made it the 50 miles home running 180 degrees cruising at 2k rpm but the ambient temp was also 20 degrees lower.
and well a picture because every post is better that way.
No thermostat at all and cruising temps hang around 180 degrees? That sounds way too hot for things to be correct outside of the missing thermostat. Wondering what the condition of the rad and the water pump is. Definitely getting a spring in that bottom rad hose seems important.
pres589 (djronnebaum) said:No thermostat at all and cruising temps hang around 180 degrees? That sounds way too hot for things to be correct outside of the missing thermostat. Wondering what the condition of the rad and the water pump is. Definitely getting a spring in that bottom rad hose seems important.
Yeah the radiator is a used one I pulled from an 83 Ltd with the heavy duty cooling package. It could be the bad spot for sure. Water pump is new and works fantastic based on the way the system is flowing in the top half the radiator. Certainly going too look into it after work today!
Well hopefully eBay too the rescue, radiator seems to be all that's left not replaced and it's dirty inside. My budget for this swap has been drug out back and shot but my wife hasn't made me sleep in it yet!
Every aftermarket fox radiator I could find uses these smaller inlet and outlet hoses so next step is necking down both my hoses by half an inch. This will probably be white trash as hell.
Keep at it. Cooling problems come down to flow-air and water. I fought thru this a few summers back on my 351C Cougar. That lower hose spring will keep the flow going through the radiator to keep it cool while you’re driving. Glad you spotted that failure mode. Many people don’t think the springs are necessary on the suction/intake side of the pump as new radiator hoses are stiffer than old hoses. I disagree.
Also 195F isn’t too hot. Water boils at 212f and that’s before you add coolant and pressurize the system with the radiator cap to 13psi or so. Get the water flow taken care of and the new radiator installed and you should be good. Maybe get the rad modified instead of building up hoses because you know where the next failure will be if you do that.
I would get the bottom hose collapsing fixed first, before I spent money on a radiator (unless you know it’s cloged)
180 cruising with NO thermostat is not too hot. When running without a ‘stat, there is no restriction to slow flow down to factory design speeds, and coolant flows through radiator to fast to dissipate its heat. Don’t know if I wore that well enough to be understandable, but...
straight water is also bad for a few reasons. Coolant and pressurized system SHOULD run in the 190’s. People run colder temps to fool computers. Hot is better for combustion.
I agree that it might be a case of too much coolant velocity and not enough time in the rad to really shed much heat.
That said, eh, getting rid of what looks like the original 40 year old radiator for a new unit will probably improve cooling, shed weight, and maybe increase fluid capacity by a small amount. Seems like one of those times where throwing a part at the problem is a smart move in the long run anyway. Lower rad hose seems important of course.
When I had a 5.0 Mustang I pulled the previous owner installed 165 degree thermostat and installed a 195 degree unit. Agreed that some folks don't want to see that gauge climb at all OR are trying to fool the computer OR just think colder = better.
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