'83 Starlet-Avoid the Noid! content

Above is what all those brackets look like once I hacked and ground away at everything that looked like the wimpy stock axle.The old axle was built to a uniform distance from the square tubing, with the pumpkin flange, and the vertical square tube both plumb. I built two more legs to get the whole contraption level, plumb, and true. That thingamajig in front is some scrap 2-1/2" muffler tubing welded to some other scrap built to the proper elevation(hallelujah for level garage floors).

I could then square the thingamajig up to the square tube, and mark, and slowly grind the brackets to fit. Action shot of the thingamajig , well, in action. And here's the whole mess waiting for final alignment and tacking. I stopped there to think a bit about pinion angles. Anyone have any idea? I'm figuring 2-1/2" -3" drop in the rear, but its getting a new engine and transmission, so everything is up in the air. My first inclination is to just set it plumb to the jig, which is how the stock one was set up.

That is the AE86 axle that is marginally too wide, and blown to heck for anyone who might be wondering.

I can't remember if you decided to use the Corolla-style mounting or the Starlet style geometry.

In reply to DaewooOfDeath:

I'm using the Starlet triangulated 4-link, rather than the Corolla 4-link+ panhard bar setup, which I do consider superior. The panhard was going to require a good bit of work to fit-move fuel pump, build a stout bracket that kept it horizontal at ride height, etc. In the end, I referred back to the "any suspension works if you don't let it" rule, and figured I'd ignore the tendency of triangulated 4-links to bind. Suspension travel should only be s few inches, and I got the fancy poly bushed 4-link arms from T3. Both front(strut) and rear suspensions will be somewhat compromised, but WAY superior to stock. Now if I can just get the %#&* tub straight!

If you run flex joints of some form in the arms, the triangulated 4 link should have plenty of travel before binding. And panhard bars can cause some undesirable suspension quirks, so the triangulated setup might actually work better once the binding is sorted.

Poly bushings will make the triangulated 4 link HORRIBLE. Rubber would be much better than poly. Poly bushings will bind with even the tiniest amount of travel in that setup (or a parallel 4-link on uneven ground for that matter), so IMO, they're a no-go for solid axle control arms. Poly at one end of the arm with a flex joint at the other usually works alright though.

^This.

Poly plus 4 link = scary sudden oversteer.

That said, I'm with you that you can make it handle well. I was asking because I had the panhard rod four link in my old Corolla and I loved loved loved that setup. Still the sweetest handling car I've owned.

Thanks for the input, guys, and duly noted. I knew I didn't want the harshness of spherical rod ends, but didn't think of the poly bits binding. I am sure, even after it is running, this car will require a ton of fiddling before it is dialed in. Any thoughts on maybe poly on the outer lower links, and rubber on the upper diagonals, or one end of each link? Or am I better off going completely rubber everywhere?

Stuff's still going on here, just not so fast, and plenty of stuff will have to be redone. The thing is I'm moving. Selling my house and shop, helping my girlfriend do the same, and we're going to move in together in a town we both really like that lies some 2 hours to the East. What that means is I've got to get this thing mobile. I'm fortunate enough to have storage arranged less than a mile away. So, I welded the brackets to, then slapped some paint on the (AE86) rear axle. For those keeping score at home, yep, I put this back together with the lunched diff. I also made some crappy bearing retainers (in green below, behind the axle flange). If I need to tow it any distance, I'll put some throwaway fluid in it.

I still have a good bit of stuff to do to the house before it is ready for market, and the plan is to have the chassis straight, and the body in primer before I put it away for an as yet to be determined amount of time. Yes, I have entered the DANGER ZONE!

I fiddled with the suspension today.

And because I need some motivation to cut into this poor bastidge: The Supra wheels have too much dish to work with the wider rear, so I dusted off the bugeye's ultralights. They're 14X6 with 185/60/14s, and they look like they JUST clear in the back. They're a good bit lighter, as well.

Good god those look RIGHT.

Dusterbd13 wrote: Good god those look RIGHT.

X2

You could just wire brush the whole car, clear coat it, and tell people it's the other DeLorean.

That looks really good. I hope the body straightening goes well.

wheelsmithy wrote: Thanks for the input, guys, and duly noted. I knew I didn't want the harshness of spherical rod ends, but didn't think of the poly bits binding. I am sure, even after it is running, this car will require a ton of fiddling before it is dialed in. Any thoughts on maybe poly on the outer lower links, and rubber on the upper diagonals, or one end of each link? Or am I better off going completely rubber everywhere?

Fox body guys have the same basic set up they seem to be okay with a mix, though I see a lot of aftermarket arm kits with all rubber.

I'm sure the Starlet geometry is different, though. You might just have to cycle it through a couple times to see where ot binds.

The Old Man always said excuses were like...umm Noses. The REASON I haven't been getting anything done on the Starlet: I got the bright idea to try to catch something I was cutting with the port-a-band. 5 stitches, tendons seem fine, and yes, I had gloves on. The picture is 6 days after the event. It was pretty messy. On the bright side, my tetanus is up to date. In other news, I just relearned how tetanus is spelled. Dirty.

Our cars are getting eerily similar...wait until you see my wheels...there's a story and a good reason I had to bail on your Supras...

How was the glass to remove? I had the new molding for the front windshield but still need to get the glass. I'm sort of dreading the process.

In reply to redvalkyrie:

Not bad at all, as long as you accept the seal is toast. I used a box cutter, and some of those plastic prybars for trim and went slow. Don't wait until winter.Rock Auto had a reasonable new windshield last time I looked....shipping would probably be a bear, but cool that its available.

That finger almost deserves its own (re-build) thread

I almost look forward to you running into obstacles because I know you will figure out a solution worth learning.

Glad your hand is going to be okay. That looks berkeleying nasty.

I really appreciate what a supportive bunch the GRM family is. Thanks for the good vibes.

This will be a somewhat long post, as I have the car just about ready for hibernation. I still haven't gotten up the nerve to start cutting and pulling on this thing. You see, I found more buckles on the driver's rocker. The one below is up towards the front of the door: It makes sense that the door fits like holy heck.

And so, I see two routes forward. One is a return to the frame shop, which I am by no means too proud to do. The second is a Build Table. In hindsight, a build table would have been a great place to start. Since I'm so twisted up, there is no way I feel some plywood and 2X4 contraption would accomidate the wrenching, pulling, cursing, and jacking it will take to un-berk this poor car, and, if I'm honest, the frame on my bugeye project suffered some-ahem-heat related distortion as well. So, build table it is. This will be something that gets its own build thread. We're talking plate steel, adjustable legs, its own power, ETC. Think something the Project Binky guys would build were they not so damn capable, and smart. The thing is, that will have to wait until after the move.

So, there you have it. I'm making plans to build a table in a garage I don't have, in fact, may have to build, in a town I don't live in yet, one where I have not found gainful employment. While I'm at it, I'm waffling. At this point, my Bugeye is WAAAY closer to being driveable than the Starlet. Everything is up in the air, including drivetrain for Toyota's finest. It has been a fun 14 months, but the curtains are closing on the first act. I'll be sure to get back to this thread as soon as I can.

Some pictures. Oh, and, the finger is about 80% for those keeping score at home.

Oh man, she's looking really good, and so much closer to running and driving. The move sounds pretty crazy, I can't believe you are giving up that awesome garage for a place with NO garage?? The ole lady must have gotten a job a the new town then? (I hope)

In reply to DirtyDiesel: Thanks, it does LOOK good, its rust free, now I've got to get it STRAIGHT. As to the move, neither of us have jobs, it is just a quality of life thing. Chattanooga is a much more progressive town. There are bikes, canoes, solar panels and outdoor sports everywhere. Internet is among the fastest in the nation, and included in your taxes. The town just FEELS good-not unlike Portland OR.I'll also be 2 hours closer to Atlanta. Loosing this shop is indeed unfortunate, but I expect overall quality of life to improve for both of us. Besides, A shop is a necessity. Weather I find property with a preexisting shop, or build one, there must be a place for the madness to continue

Chattanooga is a cool town. The schnitzel sandwich at the Brewhaus is top notch. Good luck with the move!

Here's a somewhat pointless update for no reason, whatsoever:

My beautiful shop and house have sold, and almost everything I own is jammed in a 20X20 garage on my Mom's rental property. You can just see the Sprite's firewall off to the right. Why does this feel like the scene in Indiana Jones where they are stowing the Ark in that gigantic warehouse, never to see the light of day again?

So, all I've to do is get another job, buy a house, preferably with a shop on-site (or build one-egad!), move all this crap, build a monolithic build table, and then, I can get back to fiddling with these "distractions". There will be more when there's more. Later.

wheelsmithy wrote: Why does this feel like the scene in Indiana Jones where they are stowing the Ark in that gigantic warehouse, never to see the light of day again?

Yeah, it's the Ark but minus the giant warehouse.

It's been a couple years but any change in the Starlet? I randomly thought about this thread the other day and wondered what was up with it.