The valve covers also would leak onto the exhaust manifold...
The valve covers also would leak onto the exhaust manifold...
Knurled wrote: The valve covers also would leak onto the exhaust manifold...
Ranger gasket reduced the problem quite a bit, and don't wrap the header...
I do need to replace the valve cover gasket.
Today I got a new battery for it and it started up on the old gas but wasn't happy. I drained some of the gas from the (full) tank and added some fresh.
I started to take the timing cover off but apparently there is a bolt that is impossible to get to without further disassembly.
Right between those two coolant hoses where no wrench can reach...thanks Ford.
It does look like the timing belt is due for a change so that will be ordered as well.
Pretty much the only valve cover gasket worth getting is a factory Ford one for the Ranger. Pricey but worth it or take a trip to the junkyard to get a used one.
You can reuse them over and over.
As for the timing cover, break out your 1/4" socket set.
Lof8 wrote: Just thought I'd throw it out there, but my buddy, John Lambert, is stage rallying in a miata. He built a permanently affixed roof and passed tech. I do believe he's only done one rally with it though.
I couldn't imagine fitting all the gear we carry into a miata - particularly making it easily and quickly accessable when you need to get to it on stage. Hell, I wouldn't even do a coupe, personally. Having that back seat area (via rear doors) to put helmets (during long transits), cooler, etc is awesome. The ability to carry two spare tires is (as someone who has blown two tires on the same stage) pretty useful as well.
¯\_(ツ)_/¯ wrote: In reply to EvanB: That what I would do, and have done previously. I'm not planning on selling mine, but my history with cars dictates that you can probably wait me out and just buy it when I get bored, assuming I haven't crashed it into oblivion by thenIf you wanted to start with something that has a cage (in need of updating) there's this E21 on my local craigslist, but it's not as if parts for those are just laying around either.
I also know someone who has an e30 325is (NASA Rally logbooked) that is for sale. Needs some work, but way less work than building one. FWIW Dan Downey just won BOTH regionals at STPR in class in his 325i this weekend and.....and it's not "built" at all...even on stockish suspension. We also finished with zero damage or breakage (though not as fast as Dan).
Thats too clean to rally but then again, its much less time saved on rusty bits. Someone is gonna be mad that you ruined a good sunday driver. But that person aint me!
Forgot to mention, ICM since you mentioned it, move the TFI first, go ahead and get a heat sink off an early 90s f150, dremmel off the few fins and relocate the TFI off the dizzy to the firewall, I think we used 10 gauge wire and just connected straight to the dizzy, took 6 months of fiddling to solve all kinds of random problems with that one trick...
This is the kit I used on my XR for TFI relocation.
http://www.mccullyracingmotors.com/index_files/tfikits.htm
Not sure if it's been mentioned but I'd double check the seam welds underneath the doors for rust.
It can also hide underneath the plastic cladding.
irish44j wrote:Lof8 wrote: Just thought I'd throw it out there, but my buddy, John Lambert, is stage rallying in a miata. He built a permanently affixed roof and passed tech. I do believe he's only done one rally with it though.I couldn't imagine fitting all the gear we carry into a miata - particularly making it easily and quickly accessable when you need to get to it on stage. Hell, I wouldn't even do a coupe, personally. Having that back seat area (via rear doors) to put helmets (during long transits), cooler, etc is awesome. The ability to carry two spare tires is (as someone who has blown two tires on the same stage) pretty useful as well.
The guy is not normal. He drove the car from Florida to Iowa for rallycross. He also drove the car to the Sandblast rally with all of the gear inside. Although, lately he's been talking about building an old rwd escort as the next rally vehicle.
irish44j wrote: I also know someone who has an e30 325is (NASA Rally logbooked) that is for sale. Needs some work, but way less work than building one. [...]
I don't mean to derail the thread, but do you happen to have a link?
artur1808 wrote:irish44j wrote: I also know someone who has an e30 325is (NASA Rally logbooked) that is for sale. Needs some work, but way less work than building one. [...]I don't mean to derail the thread, but do you happen to have a link?
Noooooooo...I've been trying to avoid asking for details.
...but would also like to see a link.
Raze wrote: Forgot to mention, ICM since you mentioned it, move the TFI first, go ahead and get a heat sink off an early 90s f150, dremmel off the few fins and relocate the TFI off the dizzy to the firewall, I think we used 10 gauge wire and just connected straight to the dizzy, took 6 months of fiddling to solve all kinds of random problems with that one trick...
That's not Prepared legal.
Erm, just for the record.
GPz11 wrote: Not sure if it's been mentioned but I'd double check the seam welds underneath the doors for rust. It can also hide underneath the plastic cladding.
The first thing I asked when I got the phone call was if it was a sunroof car or not. Non sunroof cars appear to be greatly resistant to the rocket rot. It's not a given either way of course.
Timing belt is now replaced and it runs quite well. The old belt was missing a few teeth.
I got it up to temp and bled the cooling system. I moved it back and forth a few feet but need to take off the rear wheels and get the parking brake to release.
In reply to EvanB:
Now the journey really begins
I got the brakes freed up and drove it around the block.
It revs sluggishly, I'll see what some fresh gas does. I still need to install the new icm and get a radiator cap.
Get a Motorcraft TFI / ICM, not worth the hassle with other brands.
Time for an update.
This weekend I finally checked the fuel pressure (it was fine at 40-42psi) and checked the timing. The timing was 12°ATDC, setting it to 13°BTDC improved things greatly. I have the thermostat housing off so I didn't run it too long but did move it down the driveway and back.
Last night I ordered a thermostat and coolant tank cap that I needed. I will be out of town all week but hopefully I can get it together next weekend and take a proper road test.
Fel-pro makes a nice reusable thermostat gasket.
In reply to GPz11 :
If I have to do it again I may go that route, I just ordered the regular $0.75 gasket with my thermostat.
Here is the video of getting it running:
After this I changed the oil and added coolant after putting the new thermostat in. I let it idle in the driveway for a bit to bleed out the cooling system then shut it off. When I went to move it later in the day it had similar symptoms as when I started, it would almost die under any throttle. I haven't got back to it to check it yet so not sure if the distributor moved or what.
So this is still around. I got it running and have driven it a few times but there are still some issues keeping me from driving it more.
First, a video from a bit ago where I replaced the injectors since one was leaking.
One of the main issues is the turn signals not working. The hazard switch was completely broken which is a common issue and stops the turn signals from working.
Step 1: figure out what the issue is. This is probably it (the white thing was a hazard switch at one time).
Step 2: Remove the turn signal switch and unplug the connector. I don't know if this jumper wire was an attempt at fixing the issue? If it was it no longer works.
Step 4: Remove the cover from the hazard switch area without breaking too many things. Figure out what contacts to jump to bypass the switch.
Step -1: Text your friend to bring over his soldering iron next time he comes because you have no idea where yours is.
I also ordered a new wastegate actuator to replace the current non-functioning one.
In reply to EvanB :
That broken hazard switch is what’s stopping your turn signals from working. It’s pushed down too far. If you still have the red piece that goes over it, you can probably pull it back up to where it works. Turn on the turn signal and pull it up till they come on. If you’re missing the red piece, you can probably do the same with a pair of needle noses.
Ive seen this many times... shouldn’t need to splice or rewire anything!
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