'88 MR2 NA, building it up for the "One Lap" in 2018

ECU seems to be doing good. Had it attached to the car for a bit with the Wifey's laptop to check that sensors were reading correct and such. All of them that I can check while not running seem ok. MAP, CLT, IAT, TPS are all in range where I'd expect them to be. Still working on settings some more but getting them pretty close to where I'd need for a start attempt. Going to get back to the harness and run the ignitor and injector bank wires now. Heatshrink should be here in a few days so I can clean it up next weekend hopefully.

Also been letting the ECU do a burn-in on the bench, just to make sure it's stable. Seems ok so far.

Hmmmmm......still some connections to figure out. Not needed for initial start, but need to know what to do about them down the road.

Not ready to use, but understand: G+/G- are the cam angle sensor, use those later. L1,L2,L3,ECT are for the transmission computer, not used.

Don't have these sorted out yet: Inputs (I think) into factory ECU: VSS, Brake Lights, A/C Compressor, neutral start, EGR temp sensor. Output (I think) for fast idle.

Toyota probably use the VSS, A/C, and brake signals for an over-run fast idle circuit. Not worried about EGR or neutral start right now. May never use them.

Fast Idle i'll have to sort out, as all the online guides say use the fast idle output on MS for the TVIS. But then you don't get a fast idle. I'd rather have them both work to be honest.

First few attempts to fire the car on the megasquirt were unsuccessful, but found the issue I think. Documentation on the 'net for using MS with a 4AGE is spotty and riddled with errors. They had me leaving out a couple components on the PCB that resulted in no path for the tach signal to reach the processor. Will probably be the weekend again before I can get back at it in earnest as I have a big order to assemble for my business and have to get on it once the parts arrive.

-Hans

We've got a runner!

Using the VR circuit with the pull-up gets me a solid tach signal now, which matches that on the car dash. So it may be very rough at the moment but the car does start and run, quits if I let it get under 1500rpm or so. I am seeing a advancement to the timing via tunerstudio as well, but not a steady enough idle yet to verify with a timing light if the MS is actually controlling spark or just thinks that it is. That'll come later.

Next hurdle to solve is why I'm not seeing anything on the O2 sensor yet, it just gives a solid 0.17v, so MS is trying to richen the mixture to compensate. Talk about stinky!

Yay, Birthday! Got a small Win10 convertible tablet/laptop today. Really basic, nothing fancy, will be dedicated to Megasquirt. I also upgraded to the registered version of TunerStudio to take advantage of the auto-tuning, to help get a good starting map as I go.

-Hans

Well, no updates in a while. Why? Part of them is forgetting to post up the link for my latest video from November.

Bigger reason? Dakota Winter. First we've had some good snowstorms and I've had to spend way too much time fixing my old Ariens Sno-Thro. New carb, coil, plug wire, points, condensor so far. Next week or so gets a fresh shear pin and throttle cable.

We also had the big 'Polar Vortex' going for most of December. Daily temps struggled to hit 2 digits most of the month. Most nights were below zero, as were some days. One weekend we hit -35f at night and only -10f for the daily high temp.

Not the most exciting of the series, but here's the November update video that I forgot to post here.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2-BauPeE5SA

YAY! I got new floormats for christmas!

Brainerd Raceway also posted up their school schedule for 2017. Time to start planning that and get off my ass to work on this car!

I keep forgetting to order gaskets to do the cam seals. I'm going to build up that small port starting soon but don't want to rush it. So I need to make sure the existing engine stops leaking so much oil until that happens.

-Hans

And the 'December' update video is now posted up on YouTube for your viewing 'enjoyment'.

This month is finally upgrading the pads and rotors, doing a Q&A session to answer viewer/reader questions, and ranting about why I now hate GoPro.

Season 2, Episode 2 Video

-Hans

re: Video Overlay + GoPro

You might look into Harry's Lap Timer. I haven't used it, but the documentation indicates that it will control GoPro 3's, and well do it's own data overlay's onto the video. Looks like it's $20 on Android.

A couple other things to consider is that you want any data & video recording to be as automatic as possible... there's enough going on at OneLap that it's easy to forget to hit "record". This includes having dedicated mounts, that don't require setup/adjustment when you arrive.

So, if you're planning on doing 'channel' updates during OneLap... probably a good idea to pick up a "vlog" camera, and then one camera to point forward, and one to point rearwards... if budget allows.

I've been using 'Track Addict', which works pretty easy for me so far. It directly controls the GoPro. Though having an external GPS made a massive difference once I got that installed, smartphone GPS units just plain suck.

It's the software to add the data overlays during post-processing that's driving me nuts. I really liked Dashware. It was easy to use and very configurable for almost any kind of data you wanted to overlay. But since Windows updated last August, it no longer displays any video through that program. I know I can use RaceRender, but I don't like it quite as much, and I'd have to pay for it separately.

Woah, BIG rule changes for one-lap starting this year. They bumped the treadwear minimum from 140 up to 200. Thankfully it won't hurt me at all as I was planning on star-spec's, which have a 200 treadwear, but that could cause a hiccup for some folks.

They're also cracking down on graphics too. Last year they had Gas Monkey Garage basically not have ANY of the required decals in the right places. This year it's going to be strict on the rules for signage. Not complaining at all there.

The One Lap is officially on the bucket list for my boys and me. Having to be 18 the first will be 2021 and then 2024. I will need all that time to get our Conquest TSi ready for an adventure like this... Your post is an inspiration.

hhaase wrote: Woah, BIG rule changes for one-lap starting this year. They bumped the treadwear minimum from 140 up to 200. Thankfully it won't hurt me at all as I was planning on star-spec's, which have a 200 treadwear, but that could cause a hiccup for some folks.

mazdeuce (and Brock?) had a better handle on the tire situation last year, so I'll bow to his/their insights if they swing around. but IIRC... a significant portion of the field were on PS2's, the Star Specs, or RE71's... all of which are 200 or higher. The field of sub-200tw tires seems to be shrinking, so I dunno if this is 'that big of a deal' ?

re:Star Specs... I'd recommend you seriously consider the RE71R's, which have better wet-grip. Results from this past year for the Star Specs was... mixed. HMA's MDX apparently loved theirs. My MINI was hydroplaning down half of Palmer's front straight on them, and the Shogun was really twitchy on them in the wet too... eventually spinning out into the guardrail in the wet at NCM and ending their OneLap.

Either way, I'd highly recommend getting some experience with whatever tire you select in the wet... and finding some time on a wet pad is worth whatever price it takes... since you'll be familiar with the wet grip, and get practice for the first event. Coming out of the wet skid pad strong can help set the mood right for the rest of the trip. And, much like drags racing is harder than it looks, so is driving around in a continuous circle.

sleepyhead wrote:

hhaase wrote: Woah, BIG rule changes for one-lap starting this year. They bumped the treadwear minimum from 140 up to 200. Thankfully it won't hurt me at all as I was planning on star-spec's, which have a 200 treadwear, but that could cause a hiccup for some folks.

re:Star Specs... I'd recommend you seriously consider the RE71R's, which have better wet-grip. Results from this past year for the Star Specs was... mixed. HMA's MDX apparently loved theirs. My MINI was hydroplaning down half of Palmer's front straight on them, and the Shogun was really twitchy on them in the wet too... eventually spinning out into the guardrail in the wet at NCM and ending their OneLap.

Huh, reading all the stuff I can find seemed to be the other way around, with the star-spec's better in the cool and wet than the RE71's. Wish I could get pilot sports in the sizes I can run. I know Andy was saying in the one-lap issue that they reallys struggled with the RE71's when it was cool and wet.

It rains during One Lap. A LOT. I competed in 2007 in an Audi S4, so all wheel drive. Even with that I was slithering around all over the place.

Make sure you have several thousand miles on your car in its final, completely buttoned up iteration before you leave. That's super, duper important! Do NOT touch anything on the car for at least a month beforehand, short of doing an oil change or something.

If you're thrashing away that close to the deadline, you might as well just pack it in and plan on going the next year. Most of the cars drop out due to reliability problems directly related to not finishing the builds on the cars soon enough to properly shake them down.

One Lap is like an over grown auto-x, you spend far more time driving the transit stages on the freeway then you do on the race track. You're much better off biasing your car towards that than the actual track time. In other words, don't bring a race car that's incredibly uncomfortable to drone 500 miles of interstate in.

The trailer is a good idea, again, completely rebuild it months ahead of time and make sure it has a bunch of shake down miles on it too. Bring a bicycle. I wish I had. In fact, I had a bike tray mount put on my tire trailer for that express reason.

docwyte wrote: It rains during One Lap. A LOT. I competed in 2007 in an Audi S4, so all wheel drive. Even with that I was slithering around all over the place. Make sure you have several thousand miles on your car in its final, completely buttoned up iteration before you leave. That's super, duper important! Do NOT touch anything on the car for at least a month beforehand, short of doing an oil change or something. If you're thrashing away that close to the deadline, you might as well just pack it in and plan on going the next year. Most of the cars drop out due to reliability problems directly related to not finishing the builds on the cars soon enough to properly shake them down. One Lap is like an over grown auto-x, you spend far more time driving the transit stages on the freeway then you do on the race track. You're much better off biasing your car towards that than the actual track time. In other words, don't bring a race car that's incredibly uncomfortable to drone 500 miles of interstate in. The trailer is a good idea, again, completely rebuild it months ahead of time and make sure it has a bunch of shake down miles on it too. Bring a bicycle. I wish I had. In fact, I had a bike tray mount put on my tire trailer for that express reason.

Oh, I never planned on going this year, plan was always for 2018. Hitting design freeze pretty soon too, that way I can get some track time and distance driving this year with however the car is going to end up. Have a trailer that'll be getting rebuilt starting pretty soon, and bringing a bike for sure.

-Hans

More good news. Somebody on Twitter sent me a workaround for Dashware that gets it to work again with Windows 10. Better video dash overlays will be back for the spring autocross season.

-Hans

No reason to decide on tires now except maybe to get yourself used to something. Also "wet" means something different on One Lap. For AX and track stuff wet usually means just that, but on One Lap, the sessions need to be done and wet often means literal standing water. Way beyond what would cause other organizations to delay things for a bit. Wet and dry and standing water and cold and hot and highway manners and wear over 4-8k miles and......it's a lot to ask of tires.

mazdeuce wrote: No reason to decide on tires now except maybe to get yourself used to something. Also "wet" means something different on One Lap. For AX and track stuff wet usually means just that, but on One Lap, the sessions need to be done and wet often means literal standing water. Way beyond what would cause other organizations to delay things for a bit. Wet and dry and standing water and cold and hot and highway manners and wear over 4-8k miles and......it's a lot to ask of tires.

Very true, can deal with it later. Right now I gotta worry about finding time to deal with the leaking cam seals.

Ooooh. Reading the latest GRM, continental is releasing a new extreme contact sport in 205/50/15!

May be the solution to my dilemma

Trailer hitch has been blasted and re-painted, had it sitting on the bench for a couple months now to let the paint cure. Will be putting that back on soon. Also have a powered converter on the way for the trailer wiring, figured I might as well do it right.

-Hans

FINALLY! Found a wiring connector that I'm comfortable to use for splicing in the trailer wiring. Wago "Lever Nuts". We got some at work and these things are really damn nice. Not waterproof, but for use in the rear trunk they'll be just fine. The DIN terminal blocks in our industrial machines, many of which are made by WAGO, are rock-solid. Damn sure are going to be better than butt-connectors, scotch-lock splices, or any of that kinda stuff.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000JJPA66/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=A3R4I23CRTYH0H

Got a day where I could warm up the garage and work on things.

Finished bolting the hitch up to the bumper, and re-installing the bumper. Completed wiring up the relay and fuse box in my rear trunk that powers my under-dash accessory box. Got the Curt powered trailer wiring box installed too. I just need to figure out a way to route the wiring from the Curt box out to the trailer hitch. Though for now, in a pinch, I can just loop it over the trunk sill and close the trunk lid over it. The only angle I could get to photo the lighting box makes it look like crap, but the install is actually a lot cleaner in person. Or at least as clean as you can make a spliced in trailer wiring install.

Ok, now that trailer stuff is done (on the car anyway), next step is going to be dealing with the leaking cam seals. Crossing my fingers I don't find much else when I dig. I know the timing belt is fairly recent, have the receipt somewhere, was done not long before I bought the car. I'll still give it a good look-over just in case. But I'm just losing too much oil at this point from that area. Already did the distributor, valve cover, and half the oil lines.

That and I have a newly developed leak in the left rear brake caliper, leaking around the piston. I just put new seals in it last year so not sure what's up. I'll get a new seal kit and pull it apart to check.

The more I have to work around the exhaust the more I want something 'different'. The basic Walker muffler set on there now just has no soul .... but I don't want a stupid fart can either. Would definitely like something without those rotten looking accordion bends.

-Hans

I would much rather lose a couple HP and have the car make half the noise. I'm already dreading how loud the Civic for this year is.