Engine is all buttoned up, almost. Mainly just have to take care of remounting the distributor, upper timing cover, and a couple belts. Then fresh oil, flush and fresh antifreeze, bleed the brakes, and give 'er a start.
Hopefully this weekend it'll be running again.
-Hans
Running with a year to go? Way ahead of schedule. Looking forward to seeing you next year.
Same here, totally jealous, have a great run!
-Hans
Latest video update now live. All thats left is fluids and turn the key. That'll be this weekend.
https://www.patreon.com/Siegecraft
Ok, need some AW11 knowledge help here on a Mk1b with cruise control.
There's a vacuum line, runs from the area of the cruise control module, around the engine, along the radiator hose, next to the radiator cap, and then to SOMEWHERE near the intake manifold.
I can't figure out where the hell this line connects to. Anybody can snap a photo real quick for me?
Ok, vacuum line figured out. Then I snapped another bolt off, for one of the two coolant drain lines near the front swaybar. Not a fun place to drill and tap, but I've got some 1/8" NPT hardware from my paintball days. If that thread can hold 4500psi air, it'll hold antifreeze.
Oil filled, about to fill the anti-freeze, then battery and start it.
So in a few hours I will report back with glee or tears.
It's more than a few hours. How did it go?
Time to bleed the brakes and take 'er driving!
Started up and running without any drama, almost anti-climactic.
Ok, One small issue. Distributor is leaking again. Another set of fresh seals is on the way. I'm guessing it'll be an annual maintenance at this point.
I do have a couple ideas to look at for helping the issue but will have to wait till I have time to pull it out and look at it.
Damn, that rear caliper I put new seals into got stuck, and the wheel got quite hot. Hope I didn't ruin the new rotor and pads. I'll know more when it cools down and I can pull the wheel.
Ok, not a huge issue with the brakes, always helps when you spot problems early enough. Rotor and pads are just fine. Parking brake cable is causing issues. Rock Auto has them for $40 shipped, so order is already placed.
-Hans
two steps forward, and don't worry about the half-steps backwards
the forward progress will eventually overcome the little stuff that's in the way
keep up the good work!
I tell ya, it's a great feeling to be driving the car again with only little piddly things at the moment. Project is back on track.
Since I've got to park it a couple days till the brake cable arrives I'm going to take a serious look at solving the oil leak issue with these distributors once and for all. There has to be a better method than replacing that damn seal every year or two.
Well, turns out there isn't much you can do about blocking off oil from getting to that seal. There's a bushing in there that requires lubrication, and an opening on the top of the nose to let oil in for that purpose. I'm going to look into some higher temp parts that have a better sealing profile.
Need something with a higher temp rating, and that can deal with some pressure, as you do have crank case pressure to deal with. It may not be much pressure, but there is some.
Talked to Solaman about you as he was leaving to catch a plane. He said to drop him a line. Looking forward to seeing this car next year.
Hey, thanks! I wasn't going to ask as I figured you were probably busy enough the whole time. I'll have to shoot him an e-mail. LOL him looking forward to seeing it, or you? (or both? even better!)
-Hans
Edit: LOL and e-mail to him bounced, must have changed his address, I'll message him on Twitter.
New parking brake cable installed, new distributor seals installed, timing set again.
Left rear wheel spins freely now which it wasn't doing before, and that old cable was definitely frozen for sure. Always good to have problems solved.
Looks like I may have a coolant leak too though. If I'm spotting it correctly it's the block drain, so should be an easy fix. Not leaking too badly so not a rush to take care of it.
No coolant in the oil, no oil in the coolant, so head gasket is looking good too.
-Hans
Did you get the message I sent you about the Airstream?
I did, just haven't had time to respond yet. Hectic times around here.
No hurry, just wanted to make sure it didn't get lost in the ether and this seemed like a good place to ask.
Well, Time for a report of good news and bad news.
Good news is the engine runs fantastic. Super smooth and you can tell the cleaning plus serviced injectors worked wonders for the car.
Bad news is that the head gasket is pissing coolant when hot, down the side of the block under the distributor.
And with the car going into storage while I change houses, plus no time to sort it out before that happens, the entire project is at risk right now.
At this point I may have to push the one-lap back a year unless there are some big developments in the next month.
Oh no! 
I sold mine forever ago for this same reason. This one's definitely too nice to ditch over a head gasket though.
Yeah, you're tellin me! I think I know when/how it may have been damaged during the install. Everything looked ok when I re-inspected it, but E36 M3 happens. I'm kinda bummed at the moment but there's still hope. I'll know more when I get a chance to pull the head again and see where the failure occured.
I can still somewhat drive the car, just no long distance or autocross or track use. So maybe until I get a chance to take care of the head gasket issue I can get back to working on the megasquirt install in the meantime.
On mine, I installed the head gasket incorrectly. It will fit if placed upside-down, but one of the coolant ports is half-blocked and causes a leak. Hopefully you were not like me and you inspected the seal and made sure everything lined up, but maybe not and that's all it is.
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