Letting the beer do some thinking tonight. Where does a 7875 and 4" down pipe fit on this thing?
Letting the beer do some thinking tonight. Where does a 7875 and 4" down pipe fit on this thing?
In reply to RacetruckRon :
How much space would you gain by relocating WS Washer bottle? I think that front corner is gonna be your best bet.
Excellent move, sir.
When I was driving the truck this summer I had some issues with oil pressure dropping when hot. Part of this I think can be attributed to the leftover 5w20 that I put in this engine this spring. I typically run T5 or T6 15w40 in my LS engines the oil may have had some effect on the low oil pressure but I don't think it's the full story. A hot day for me is no longer 86* since I moved to SC, I need to improve the cooling system and oil cooling is often over looked.
I bought a whole bunch of garbage for pennies a couple years ago when Holley was running some absurd clearance sales. Enter this oil cooler from Earls with -16 fittings, -10 will do just fine for my application.
Chop fittings, chop -8 to -10 adapters, flap wheel the paint and anodize coatings, weld some and done.
Just needs a little bit of paint and something on the engine side with matching -10 ports.
Scooped up a used short shifter that is popular in S chassis swaps. It also shortens the bracket distance by a couple inches and moves the shift lever forward. Throw is very short but looking forward to having something new to try out.
I might have to move the fire extinguisher, elbow clearance isn't great.
Clutch pedal bushing took a couple tries but I think I have it figured out now. I tried spinning a thin wall bushing out of some Oil-filled bronze material but ran into issues with the strength of that material. I found a piece of brass in the scrap bin at work and made that work. It's a 60mm long flange bushing with a 17.4mm OD and a 15.8mm ID.
A washer and a double shear mount will take up the rest of the shoulder. I'm hoping that this bushing helps fix the pedal issues I was having because this smaller master cylinder makes the truck a lot more enjoyable to drive on the street.
It's those little fixes that make swaps like these so much more enjoyable.
It's hilariously awesome you're driving it around with just the shiny insulation inside.
In reply to iansane :
It's a little annoying sometimes but I ruined this thing way too much for factory carpet to fit in here. That is something I would like to fix but have no idea where to start for DIY hotrod carpet.
I'll be following whatever you do, lol. I liked the stuff Binky used but I think it was pretty expensive..
In reply to classicJackets (FS) :
You have a link to that point when they did the carpet? I haven't been following that build at all.
In reply to RacetruckRon :
Glad you asked. Looks like it's episode 34, and carpet is Woolies something or another.
In reply to classicJackets (FS) :
Thin felty stuff and spray adhesive... That seems simple enough. I love a good excuse to use chemical fasteners.
Continue to love every post that comes.
Pedals reinstalled, clutch travel feels great. I might try and take this thing for a spin around the neighborhood this weekend. The shifter feels great with the clutch pushed in. I'm excited to drive this thing again.
I don't really like driving this truck at night so I haven't really been driving to work lately. I really haven't touched the truck in a month, time to do something about that.
Service position activated.
I made a new list. Time to un-cobble this dumb little truck.
Wiring seems like a good place to start. There has been a rat nest of wiring in the passenger footwell since I first got this thing running last summer. The fuse and relay panel I made is compact but entirely unserviceable, a lot of wires are routed in questionable ways with no connectors, just a lot of solder shrink connectors. The plan is to relocate the fuse panel behind the seats and potentially move the battery there as well.
I have a large amount of GM weatherpack connectors but only the male sides from LS harnesses so I scooped up some cheapo Amazon Deutsch style connectors. These seem really solid and have a metripack style double crimp terminal so I didn't need to buy the fancy barrel crimper used on the legit Deutsch connectors.
I picked up a few more things for the uncobbling of the wiring. A new fuse block off of some freightliner according to the eBay listing and a box of new wire that is from an old engine harness.
Angry sent a box of pistons from Patrick and DusterB dropped off a piece of scrap metal.
The cam and block are pretty much garbage but the pan and balancer should be good spares and I'm hoping the crank is in decent shape so I can revive my L33 I blew up a year and a half ago.
Looks like great things happening!
Link to the fuse box? I know bussmann feels like good quality products..
In reply to classicJackets (FS) :
Fuse Box link
Connectors link
The orange connector I ordered did not fit perfect I had to modify the tangs a little bit to make it fit. I think that the connector on the fuse panel is actually the "Brown" connector after seeing it in person. I lowballed the Ebay seller and got that fuse panel for $68 shipped.
That fuzebox is snazzy!
"LS motor conveniently framed with giant turbo in the background"
Nice.
In reply to iansane :
I have no clue what I'm going to do with that big CAT turbo. I have a shiny VSR 7875 sitting in a box right above it though.
Did some probing on the fuse panel since I have no wiring diagram. I need to sleep on this and see if I can use this thing. It doesn't seem to flow how I had imagined but I may need to take a step back. Hopefully someone else finds this useful or can decipher my nomenclature below.
I need to come back and look at this again when I'm sober...
Okay, I'm starting to make some sense of this. First thing I'm seeing is that your relay pin labeling is inconsistent.
Here's how you have R3 labeled:
Here's how you have R4 labeled:
Reference: https://www.dtnaecomponents.com/Images/Relays/0639301000.bmp
Could you pick one numbering scheme, then fix and re-post your diagram and table?
That one inverted set of pins threw me for a loop and I just powered through it. I need to fix that and the color contrast, I was a little loopy from two night calls with asia last night.
Can I ask you some questions about 3d printers? You seem like one of the more experienced guys around here.
Gambit0117 said:Can I ask you some questions about 3d printers? You seem like one of the more experienced guys around here.
Absolutely. Shoot me a pm
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