In reply to Lof8 - Andy :
Good to know. That's one thing I had not considered but I think based on your pic they will work in harmony?
In reply to Lof8 - Andy :
Good to know. That's one thing I had not considered but I think based on your pic they will work in harmony?
More head scratching going on over here and I figure it's better to do so out loud in case others more experienced or knowledgeable happen to be browsing through this. Maybe I'm going the wrong direction or maybe I'm not?
I need to figure out VSS stuff. The Haltech as set up in the base map included from Humble Performance is looking for a 3 wire square wave sensor. I don't have that.
RSX k series 3 wire square wave sensor.
The Boxster 5 speed transaxle doesn't have a sensor but is capable of using one from an Audi part number 012409191D. This sensor is a variable reluctance using only two wires.
In Haltech I can modify the parameters to read the 2 wire VR sensor from the Boxster/Audi gearbox. The problem with this is I need a speedometer, and a Haltech or other digital dash is pretty pricey at around $1000. Aftermarket gauges aren't any cheaper when you have 3-4 gauges ranging from 3-400 each. I think the RSX cluster could fit my dash with some effort but then that requires a signal adapter.
There's quite a few expensive options out there that still cost considerably less than a Haltech dash, but I happened upon one for $43 from a company called SIRHC Labs. Based on my light reading this can be wired in by the sensor itself, which means I can create an adapter plug from the input/output of the VR to the sensor adapter harness. Then from there a 3 wire adapter plug that goes to the typical VSS plug of the RSX harness. Which then sends signal to the Haltech and dash. Technically I will need a pigtail for the dash, but with my universal harness I can send signals to the proper wires where needed. My check engine light, tach, fuel gauge, temp gauge, etc. will all be functional and at a fraction of the cost. I haven't purchase anything yet as I want to get dimensions for the cluster before I start to make sure it will work.
SIRHC Labs Speed Sensor Adapter V2
Electrical Specifications:
Applications:
Compatible Sensor Types:
Here's what the RSX cluster looks like. Pretty spartan, sanitary and I think should look at home in the 914. These can be had ranging from $75-150 on ebay so maybe I can score one for less. If not $75 seems like a good deal considering it has everything I need an more in a cluster.
Just something to throw out there that would get a VSS signal into the Haltech but would not help with the dash, an industrial inductive proximity sensors will run on 10-30 Vdc typically and give you that square wave pulse at a very high switching frequency. PNP sensors send back a +12Vdc signal and NPN will give you a switched ground. Sensors have high IP ratings and are super cheap on Amazon.
I couldn't get my ECU master to read the stock speed signal from my E28 so I just added one of these sensors I grabbed from work making a bracket that bolts on to the diff reading off the 6 x bolt heads on one of the halfshafts as they spin by. Simple calibration in ECU and I've got my VSS signal in the ECU.
In reply to adam525i :
I may have to look into those.
Just got word back from SIHRC Labs that theirs won't work for the RSX cluster but they did at least tell me what will work.
The output frequency on the Speed Sensor Adapter V2 cannot be calibrated so the speedo readings on the cluster will not be accurate unless the new trans produces the same pulses per revolution as the original trans.
You will probably want to use the Dakota Digital SGI-100BT instead. It allows you to calibrate the output frequency to get the speedo reading correctly.
https://www.dakotadigital.com/index.cfm/page/ptype=product/product_id=1192/mode=prod/prd1192.htm
In general terms, what does an ecu do with the VSS signal? What does it do beyond giving you a speed display on a dash? I've chosen the route of a GPS speed signal, but thats not going to tell my ecu much when the car is on a dyno. Sorry for the mild hijack.
In reply to Lof8 - Andy :
It can be used for quite a bit of stuff in Haltech but I imagine your GPS signal will talk to the 1500. I'm not 100 percent on that though.
In reply to Lof8 - Andy :
As a follow up I would talk to your tuner and see what he/she recommends or if you even need to worry about it. My guess is the ECU will want to see a speed signal or it will just think it's in neutral revving the piss out of it.
I've had a busy schedule lately but put in a few minutes work last night. My biggest priority is getting the engine sealed back up but in order to do that I still need to pull all the valves on the head to take it for resurfacing. I may order new valve stem seals again since I've installed half already and may pull them to get a proper hot tank cleaning. It's pretty gross.
So out came the valves.
I plan to clean the valves this weekend and check them all over. So far I don't see any obvious issues.
The next thing I need is an oil pan. I had a nice one lined up from the guy I got the cam trays from but it's hard to pin him down. The one that came with the engine was a little crusty and dented from being sat on the ground. So I decided to try out my new hammer and dolly set. I need to polish the edges of the hammers apparently because they were way too aggressive. Anyway I got it bent back into shape, scrubbed it clean, sanded, and prepped for paint. I decided to try gold, again some leftover paint in the cabinet. I probably will end up with black but kinda wanted to see how it would all look with the gold just to see. I don't hate it and reserve judgment until it's all back together.
Nice and shiny when freshly sprayed.
Tones down to a less glossy finish when dry. I snapped a pic of it up next to the valve cover. I don't hate it. Still undecided.
When you get finished, can I drop off my 'good' project car 914 for a few months and have you do mine the same?
*Also, I realized that 'our' parts car never had a front bumper. The one I was thinking of was on the rusty '71 that I sold last year. No longer around.
In reply to AAZCD-Jon (Forum Supporter) :
At this rate I'd say maybe in 2027 I'll be done?
I feel like I'm getting nothing done right now but things should start coming together quickly soon enough. I just keep reminding myself there's no rush to any of it, just enjoy the process.
No worries on the bumper. If I can find time to get out to Bartlesville I may grab the parts lot listed for $100. There's a hood, trunk, bumpers, valances and some other misc. stuff. Most of which I don't need but the bumpers look in decent shape.
I wasn't planning any big purchases for a while. I need to stay off of ebay. Earlier today I saw a pair of Rial Mesh front wheels in 16x7 5x130 with an offset of 23. Perfect for the fronts but no rears to be found, and they were marked at $825 or something for the set. Then a few hours later I got an offer of $500 for the pair. I wanted to pull the trigger but figured finding a pair with the right offset for the rear would prove too difficult. I really want 16's due to lack of tire size for the 15's I have, and I'm still not sold on the look of mine anyway.
Well what do you know I stumble across a set of 16x8 Rials with an offset of 11. Perfect! They were priced slightly less than the fronts which is no small price, but I couldn't resist. So I bought both!
I'm stoked to see these things mounted up and hopefully I can recoup a few bucks from the American Racing wheels that came on the car. Maybe they can cover the cost of tires I now need....... UGGGHHH. The good news is a set of similar wheels available shipped from Germany is about $500 more than what I paid. So I saved money in the end AND I get wheels that don't require any spacers or adapters that also aren't Fuch's.
Those are hawt! Nice work!
I love old school mesh. Those are gonna look awesome!
While the pan is off is the best time to make a simple baffle out of sheet steel and hardware store hinges to avoid the common problem of too much oil running up the timing chain in sustained cornering. On my K24 I used play-doh to give me the right shape in the pan. More than a 10 endurance races later with no oil pressure issues in sustained turns.
In reply to Sonic :
Which oil pump are you running? I plan to use the stock k24 pump with balance shafts which I believe won't require baffling. I ran the k20 pump on my FRS and wasn't a fan of the vibes so this time I'm opting to lose a little power for NVH reduction.
Something you may want to consider if you want a digital dash is to use a microsquirt as a sensor interface/daq box, and a RPI + screen for a digital dashboard. You can get the whole setup for less than the haltech dash if you want to diy it. I am using a MS3/X, RPI4B+ and Waveshare 12.3" display in my tundra. You can customize the gauge face however you want since TSDash is basically tunerstudio.
EDIT: If you want to keep the analog gauges, you can do something similar to what they did on project binky.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Fy2_CUBz40A
Sean
In reply to smokeysevin :
I'm open to the idea of something like that when the time comes. What would you say that all added up to cost wise?
I spent an hour or so cleaning valves today. I started with the exhaust which were difficult to clean. Luckily after finishing those the intake went super fast and didn't require much effort.
I spoke with the machine shop Friday and was quoted $75 to resurface and hot tank the head. Possibly less since mine is mostly disassembled. The head is loaded up and ready to drop off on Monday with potential to have it back in my possession the next day. I've got free time next weekend so it would be nice to have it all back together by Sunday evening.
The machine shop made quick work of the head. Dropped off on my lunch yesterday and was ready to pick up this morning. The hot tank cleaned it up pretty good with some exhaust port needing just a little further effort if I feel up to it. This evening I'd like to get all the valves lapped in and maybe springs installed. Maybe I'll have time tomorrow to get it stuck back to the block and start the process of sealing this thing up.
So much better now. It was proper crusty.
In reply to captainawesome :
Stock K24a2 everything. For how simple it was to make a baffle with some hinges on it to avoid the oil climbing the chain in extended cornering to the left, it is cheap insurance.
In reply to Sonic :
Any pics of what you did? Unit2 teamed up with Kpower to do a baffled RBB pan and it the pan itself looks stamped different than the stock k24a2 pan.
Edit: Looks like they might be using the A4 pan stamping.
Valves are lapped and cleaned again. Head has been cleaned back out along with any swarf from resurfacing. I may take off early tomorrow to install valves/springs and prep for headgasket. One day at a time.
I got off work early with one mission. To get the head bolted back to the block. So that's exactly what happened.
And then the cams got bolted in place. Including 50 degree RBC variable timing gear.
So then I was curious what the oil pan and valve cover looked like together. I don't hate it. Still thinking black though.
Then I remembered I had purchased a Kpower adjustable pulley that bolts to the timing cover. It allows me to ditch the auto tensioner for one that can be manually set. I've been waiting to order the correct length belt since I hadn't confirmed measured length yet, so it's starting to look like an assembled engine again. I happened to have a 6 rib belt destined for the Jettawagen that was 1070 in length that was a bit too long but at least showed proof of concept. A 1050 7 rib was ordered last night and should be here by the weekend. Also you can see the new Dorman crank pulley. The stock one was in really bad shape and this one was cheap.
So next on the agenda is all of the timing chain stuff, valve lash, intake and exhaust manifold. I'm probably going to seal up the timing and valve cover but leave the oil pan loose until I get a different one. Then it's off the engine stand for a rear main seal and starting the marriage between Boxster 5 speed and k24 goodness. I know I need to notch the bellhousing a smidge to clear the starter but want to take my time with that and make it look clean when finished. Not just a hacksaw cut.
I spent the majority of my day removing wires, labeling for termination, and repinning the universal adapter harness I bought. At this point I should have just bought the connectors and started from scratch but it was a learning process. Sometimes you don't know what you don't know.
This evening I connected the engine harness to the previously mentioned universal as well as the jumper to the Haltech. The wideband also made an appearance.
The universal harness will be connecting the main relay, fuel relay, and fan relay. This harness also sends signals to dash stuff if not using CAN and is where power originates to the engine loom. I still will need to make a charge harness but until the engine, battery, and fuse box are situated I'll have to hold tight. The good news is I can run the vehicle with what you see in the pic once it sees power. I'm planning a new complete chassis harness from scratch but that can wait a bit.
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